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Old 01-24-2006, 12:05 PM   #1
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 966
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 305 (LG4)
Transmission: THM700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.23 non-LS

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Duplicolor Rust-Fix??

Anyone have any experience with this stuff? Duplicolor Rust-Fix??

Here is what it says on their website:
"Rust Fix® rust treatment destroys rust on contact. It sprays on clear and turns to a black metal-protecting coating to fight future rust from forming. Specially formulated to be used with body filler and fiberglass. Sandable for a smooth, even finish.

- Stops rust on contact
- Sprays on clear
- Works on body filler and fiberglass
- Sandable for smooth even finish
- Ideal for rocker panels, paint blisters and all metal surfaces. "
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File Type: jpg can_rustfix.jpg (12.9 KB, 131 views)
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83 Z28, Dark Blue Metalic, LG4, THM700R4, Stock Fiberglass Hood, 98% stock. Factory dual snorkel, Tuned Q-jet, DR rods, B Hanger, 1/2" Phenolic Spacer, TDS Wonder Bar, Dynomax Super Turbo Catback w/ Catco cat, 114K+
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Old 01-24-2006, 12:15 PM   #2
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Location: Kenosha, WI
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Car: 1987 Trans am GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4

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Ive used it before on my rear end, it seems to work. Though I dont know for how long.
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Old 01-24-2006, 01:26 PM   #3
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 10,760
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73

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it's like phosphoric acid in a can. I tried it, didn't work whatsoever.
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Old 01-25-2006, 01:45 PM   #4
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Location: Riverside, RI
Posts: 11
Car: 1984 Trans-Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: auto

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Ive used Rustolium heavyly rusted metal primer, which seems to be pretty much the same. Ive only used it on areas with light surface rust. But after ive sanded it down. I havnt had a problem with that rust coming back in my cars yet (year and half-ish) and i live in RI.
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Old 01-25-2006, 01:58 PM   #5
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 966
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 305 (LG4)
Transmission: THM700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.23 non-LS

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Thanks for the feedback. Everything I have read on other forums has been very positive about this stuff. I am going to give it a try this summer.
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Old 01-25-2006, 02:40 PM   #6
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 3,361
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi

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I'm doing my rear end with it as well. Wire brush, wash and towel dry, then spray and you should be fine.
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Old 01-25-2006, 04:16 PM   #7
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Lawrence, KS
Posts: 16,229
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's

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Why not POR-15?

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Old 01-25-2006, 04:18 PM   #8
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 3,361
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi

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Does POR15 come in a spray can?
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Old 01-25-2006, 04:21 PM   #9
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Lawrence, KS
Posts: 16,229
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's

Classifieds Rating: (3)
Not that I know of. However, it can be sprayed.

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Old 01-25-2006, 04:30 PM   #10
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Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi

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Not really convenient for me. I'll stick with cheap rattle can stuff for the axle.
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Old 01-25-2006, 04:36 PM   #11
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Lawrence, KS
Posts: 16,229
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's

Classifieds Rating: (3)
I've done the a-arms and the entire rear end with POR-15 (as well as some portions of the body), but those pieces were out of the car, which, of course, made them much easier to deal with. Still, good stuff. Done right, you'll never have to redo.

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Old 01-25-2006, 04:36 PM
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