Phase I done, Phase II-interior almost done, and now Phase III-drivetrain (454 LSX!)
BodyGeneral body information and techniques for repairing, restoring, and modifying your car.
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hmm now how are you going to turn your wheels with a big old tube inside your wheel well directed towards the brakes...
__________________ -Dan
Click sig for Cardomain SOLD: 91 Z28, original paint, 35% tint, 305 TPI, headers, high flow cat, American thunder cat back, shift kit, 3.73 gears, Lakewood adjustable panhard rod, TB cone filter, Superior Axle and Gear Evolution Series axle shafts, Energy Suspension poly trans mount, Jet Fan Switch, 255/50/16 Falken Ziex ZE-512. my video
For a really hardcore setup... you make a custom backing plate that the hose attaches to.... but this can cause complications as the hose will eventually fail from constant flex and rubbing.
Here is an example of a hose directly on a backing plate:
Remember you also have a coil spring in the way...
Apparently I've been away for too long! This thread is all new to me, boy was I missing out. That thing looks great. I especially like what you are doing with the door handles. That's just killer! Keep up the good work.
a good suggestion for door popper is do what the hod rodders do, wire in a set of chrging posts in the back of the car like a race car or hot rod would, if the battery dies, just charge it through those!
__________________ 1991 G92 Z28 Hardtop
- 355 TPI
- Eagle rotating assembly
- Comp cams 262H-R12 camshaft
- Ported 083 heads with upgraded springs
- Edelbrock Hi-Flo TPI base
- Ported stock plenum
- Accel 24lb injectors
- AFPR
- Centerforce DF clutch
- WC T5
- Powerslot rotors with hawk pads
- UMI perf wonderbar, LCA's
- Edelbrock on-car adj. panhard bar
- Energy suspension Poly swar bar bushings
- Flexalite 180 black magic fan
- Hooker 2460 shorty headers
- Flowmaster exhaust
I'm still looking into how well the 4th gen bumper cover curvature matches the flat 3rd gen bumper cover, and how much is involved in modding the inner bumper support, as to the metal portion of how it attaches, as far as clearing the 4th gen exhaust cutouts.
Man, it's been so long since I've even been able to work on a car. This thread doesn't help either, lol. Hell, I still have some three year old HMS strut mounts in the closet that I never got the chance to install. One day my project will actually start up again, but for now, this thread will just serve as inspiration.
Your car seems to be undergoing quite a transformation and I must say that so far it is looking pretty nice. Let me know the first Houston area show you participate in and I'll be there to check out and give my praise in person. Goodluck!
actually alot of car alarms come with backup batteries, so incase they disconect your battery your alarm still goes off.
maybe you could do something similiar to that.
or i always thought that itd be easy to leave the rear hatch key and if it dies, just get in that way.
__________________ Phil's Car Domain
1985 Z/28 clone - 10 sec. budget 383 project?
1988 GTA - The real deal, no add ons.
1968 Cutlass S - The Red Baron.
__________________
---------------------------------------------
-1985 Chevy Camaro Z28
--305 tpi/700r4
--18" American Racing Vintage Series "Iroc Replicas"
I'm still looking into how well the 4th gen bumper cover curvature matches the flat 3rd gen bumper cover, and how much is involved in modding the inner bumper support, as to the metal portion of how it attaches, as far as clearing the 4th gen exhaust cutouts.
I don't wanna steal Niel's thread though.
I thought that was real at first, and I was drooling on my keyboard, btw not trying to steal thread either just had to say that that looks killer, Neil your car is awesome too, and im jealous
I thought that was real at first, and I was drooling on my keyboard, btw not trying to steal thread either just had to say that that looks killer, Neil your car is awesome too, and im jealous
I did some looking under my car...
My tips exit almost EXACTLY where the "frame" meets the rear bumper metal structure bolts to. So, the 4th gen style has too deep a notch to fit, without "frame modification. Of course, this was all eyeballing it without measuring the depth, so I can't be 100% sure, just 99%.
Learning that much, I didn't bother to check how much difference there is in curvature, or if it could be "massaged" into place.
I guess, custom notches would hafta be made, and smaller tips than what I have now. Some day...
Ok, finally I found some time to get back on the thirdgen board, I have been swamped at work! I have pics of the new fuel door, I believe John pulled it off a '91 or '92 Suburban, it's amazing how well it fits.
yes, while it is a stock door, please realize this WILL NOT just screw on or bolt on, we spent about 4 hours fab time to get the thing in and some welding on tabs to get the screws to work, also some inner fender cutting. So please don't get the door and tell me it won't work. I'm telling you right off the bat that it won't just bolt on....
lookin awesome!
cant wait to see some color on it!
__________________ Phil's Car Domain
1985 Z/28 clone - 10 sec. budget 383 project?
1988 GTA - The real deal, no add ons.
1968 Cutlass S - The Red Baron.
I'm definitely inspired to get workin on my car now, hopefully I'll be able to restore it over this winter. That looks AWESOME, can't wait to see it finished
I like the functional duct idea, but i dont see how the routing from the fender vents will work well, if at all. A more common place is the fog light/vent or turn signal holes. On my 82 I plan on moving my turnsignal inboard to where the stock "grille vents" were and using the turn signal openings as scoops for the brake ducting.
Im not sure how much lower the 85+ gfx are than the 82-84 but i think it would be interesting to see a set of ground effects extended like an 1" or so longer. Like on the earnhardt camaro..you know the one with the real iroc hood louvers...
Yeah, I can't wait to see my car painted as well! Bruce at Hawk's Thirdgen just shipped driver and passenger power mirrors to the shop, so hopefully John will have them in a day or so! Then, once I find the door switch assembly and have John do yet another sweet custom install, the car will be ready for paint! What I am trying to do is have a push-button switch (similar to the C6 vette) which will allow you to open the door by sliding your fingers/hand in the frenched in area and pushing the button and then the door pops open. Necessary, you ask? No. Is it overkill? ABSOLUTELY!!!!!
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I like the functional duct idea, but i dont see how the routing from the fender vents will work well, if at all.....
I think the brake ducts will work (but probably not effective as what you have described), however, considering that I don't plan on taking the car to the race track much, this is not an issue. I am sure it will be pretty slick when it's done, especially since John has been doing a stellar fabrication job on this car!
Ok, I think these might be the last pics of the car you will have to see in primer......The photo in the middle is from the engine comp. area where the fuel vapor canister was located (some cars might have the battery on this side). John welded in a piece of metal so that it is nice and smooth!
yes, the ducts will be functional. We have cut holes in the rear of the new front spoiler, we're welding about a 2.5 to 3in steel piece to the inside of each fender well and then routing the plastic and steel (dryer vent style) hose to a fabricated bracket either on the rear of the brake assembly or control arms. we'll have to see what works best when we get there. Hope that answered your question...as always I'll provide Neil with pictures of this fabrication.
The Corvette door handle mod is really awesome by the way. Something I'd love to do. I don't really like having the grab the underside of a handle, I like just something there to grab and pull (like the handles on the new Chevy trucks and BMW sedans).
Seems that it is coming together nicely.....I've said it once and I will say it again, I can't wait to see it in paint!
__________________
---------------------------------------------
-1985 Chevy Camaro Z28
--305 tpi/700r4
--18" American Racing Vintage Series "Iroc Replicas"
Neil, I wouldn't mind helping you fund the project, by buying the miniram of your original engine
That is nice work! I am happy to see someone go nuts on a thirdgen. As I tell all my friends who think I am nuts, "It is not an investment, its a hobby".
I think those mods are absolutely awesome and the tire size is rediculous. I am running 305's on ROH Drift R 18s. From my experience racing, you may want to roll the inner fender lip before you paint. That is if your sticking to something resembling the stock suspension geometry in the rear. In my personal experience, setting the car up soft enough to take rough cornes and stick allows the body to rotate in such a way that big tires arc through the path of the inner fender lip.
I am not sure this will be true with your fender mod, but I thought I would throw it out there.
I see you welded the batt tray area on the pass side. I'd recomend welding up both front trays and the sides that go through to the fenders. Makes it real smooth.
Oh and Tommy Z28, very nice!!!! I do really like how you have sealed that area up. Are you going to put the battery in the trunk and are you going to drill a hole through the side panel for you parking lights?
Instead of either one of us making a special trip, just pick up your 4thgen steering column when you take the rest of the interior parts back to Dallas.
Have you guys welded in the door popper cages yet?
__________________ 1991 Z-28 (Black - Hardtop) 355ci TPI/SLP, Ported Vortec heads, Comp XR276HR-12, Hooker 2210 Longtubes / custom 3" Y-pipe with 3 1/2" mufflex cat-back, Borg Warner T-56, PROM tuned by me!, 3.73's, Hotchkis suspension, custom high-flow lid and ram-air, ALL the bolt-ons, custom Boyd Coddington "1bad91Z" Billet Wheels.
So...What was the decision on how to handle the extra space between the taillights and the license plate? Extended black parts or reverse lights, like a C5 ?
For the rear license plate area, "we" (Vintage is) are going to extend the black plastic pieces and we'll see how it looks. I think it will look fine especially when looking at the earlier pictures John took. Let me know what you think. I don't want the back end to look too busy with the addition of more lights.
I thought you were going to have to weld a tiny box on the inside lip of the door to hold the door popper button/switch..... hence door popper cage. Or, has the idea changed?
Oh, I see what you are saying. Yeah, the switches will be in on Wednesday, so John will then start fabbing up a housing for the switches to go on the inside/side of the door. I'll post pics when he gets the switches and starts with the fabrication.
Something else to think about....... If he welds in the boxes for the switches, just make sure you are able to remove/replace the switches if necessary without have cut/grind. Should be interesting...
Yeah, switch removal won't be a problem. As for the color scheme......
last week John picked up the paint for my car and the color is GM Imperial Blue Metallic. A nice, solid dark blue. I think it will look good, ok I am hoping it will look awesome! The car will be one solid color and the emblems will be painted on the front and rear bumpers. I haven't decided if I will put any graphics on the rocker ground effects yet, but none of the original style emblems will be going back on the car.
The power mirrors arrived yesterday and I think John is prepping them today. Also, the greaseable hinge repair kit arrived last week from AndysZ28.com and I will be really happy to have those in, so that my doors won't creak anymore!!!
Also, the greaseable hinge repair kit arrived last week from AndysZ28.com and I will be really happy to have those in, so that my doors won't creak anymore!!!
Look forward to a review on those...I know my rocker panels and latches would appreciate me redoing the hinges on my car. Some of the paint on the door sill has already given up and left!
With the emblems, I think I will do something a little different. I am going to talk with graphics guy and see what he thinks would be cool and what he can do. But, I am pretty sure they will look slightly different and they will definitely be painted, but as far as how crazy I go with them I am not sure yet.
Stephen
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Look forward to a review on those...I know my rocker panels and latches would appreciate me redoing the hinges on my car. Some of the paint on the door sill has already given up and left!
Neil, What vehicles are using the Imperial blue hue? There is a blue that I am completly in love with on some of the new GM's, and have it planned in my wish book to paint my next camaro that color.
Thats amazing! 
