theres this stuff at wal mart that says it converts rust into primered finish, does this work?my car has alot of rust spots and im concerned mostly about around the top of the windsheild and roof and rear qrtr panel as its not coming off completely with my orbital sander and i dont want to sand for ever, also dont want it getting worse and going all the way thru

we use it all the time at school just not that specific kind you are talking about. we usually use por-15 or another product made by sems but i forgot the name. im not sure about the wal-mart stuff though. is it in a black can? If so i have used it on a small spot under the rear bumper on my car but it hasnt been on long enough to see if it is going to work like it said. i still havent put high build primer on that part yet to see if it would hold up, kinda like a test spot. when i get back to school tomorrow i will take a look at the spot and report back.

if it slows it because i know it doesnt stop it, its minimal. i usually just sand off the rust but some spots that are less noticable i used the converter stuff and it started bubbling some of the paint. the stuff i have is in a white bottle with grayish label i forget what its called. good luck

they have 2 kinds a spray and a bottle. so does it work
?i cant really sand the part above the windsheild as easy or good as i need to and was hoping to use this stuff

I tried it, and was less than impressed. The spray stuff at least.
The stuff in the bottle is a phosphoric acid stuff, it works ok. The trick is keeping it wet long enough to allow it to work. Keep a wet tissue on it, or keep applying, etc.
Do a search on here, I think a member from the UK posted his method on using the liquid rust converter.

im not going to waste 7bucks on it when i can sand it, it will just be a pain, i will have to pull the windsheild trim to get at it

I used that stuff to get rid of the rust in the holes that appeared when I took out my headliner. it worked fairly well, then I resprayed the holes with rustoleum, so I hope I don't have any rust issues later. but if you can reach the rust then just sand it.

it depends on how much of a showcar youre looking for. if you really dont want to take off the window trim then sand it as much as possible, do what sonix said about keeping it wet to set in then bondo/primer when it sets up. do you have a pic of the spot so i can see what youre dealing with?

I have had very good luck with that. The trick is to get all the grease residue off of the metal first. i did my sway bar and wonderbar a while ago and have had no problems since.

its at the begining of the roof above the windsheild...i just dont want a hole in my roof someday if it getts worse, and it probably goes under the trim, and thats my concern. this car had alot of small rust spots everywhere that the paint went bad, and theres some pretty bad rust in my bottom corner of my door jam too

The only real way to remove rust is to cut and weld, or media blast. Anything else is a bandaid that will show up under the paint some day.

i dont think any of it is that deep, all the other spot i got down to nothing but shiny steel

I used it on my '72 Bug and it worked just fine for surface rust. Anything more than that (weeping sores, etc) should have some prep work done first (i.e. Wire wheel/brush and then spray the converter on) to prevent the rust problem from just being covered up.

If you REALLY want to get it done right, cut out the affected area, weld in some new metal and IMMEDIATELY put primer and sealant or paint on it (primer's semi-porous and you run the risk of having the problem return in the same spot if you don't protect your hard work).

well said

I have the white and black bottle of "Klean-strip"... what i did was bought a wire wheel for my drill. Hit it with that for awhile. Cleaned it.. Then put it on... It "Dries to a HHHHAAARRRRDDDD Primer"... It stops the rust at least mine has its been on for around 3 months i michigan... but it is Very hard... and just block sanding it was a "Bad Word".. not sure how an electric will do.. but by hand it was tricky...I still dont have it all sanded down.

I'll also recommend a product that's really big in the VW circles:

It's called POR-15 and it's a great rust preventive (it's almost like a paintable Rhino-lining).
I've seen another version called POR-20, but it's not listed on the company's website. Not really sure what the difference is... could be heat tolerance but I'm not positive.

http://www.stoprust.net/
http://www.por15.com/

I've used POR 15. It's another "converter" type paint. It works okay, but nothing is better than actually removing the rust. POR 15 peeled off the axle and chassis parts I painted with it a few years ago, and all of the POR 15 prep and instructions were carefully followed. What did stay stuck was then very hard to strip, so I could get it all off. Next time I media blast... Stops the rust for a few months? Sure. If you want the rust to never bubble back through? Not from my experience. As Neil Young once said, rust never sleeps.

yeah iknow im going to work on it with a more aggressive git and see how that goes

Check out this site, I have a buddy that swears by this stuff. He says the rust blast works great for removeing rust.

www.KBS-COATINGS.com