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you've done an awesome job dude.
I can tell that you are proud of your work and rightfully so.
Best of luck on all future modifications.
The one I have now, I am gonna keep stock and restore the black and gold all around.
I've not touched the paint or striping yet...but I will. I'm thinking of doing a subtle pearl finish on the black and of course some original stripes.
My next project in third gen will be a white TA and that is going to get custom to the hilt.
Once again BIG KUDOS on the progress.
Still can't get that darn low fuel light going....I still can't replicate the circuit....pulling my hair out on it coz I had it right and now...I'm stuck.
If I could 200% agree I would with Bobby_80s advice I would. I've owned my bird for 19 years and I'll say it again:
1) don't buy cheap because you'll buy it 3 times over before you finally buy the best, be patient and buy the best first.
2) If looks are important to you and be really honest with yourself, don't buy a rusty beater because you will waste SO much time disassembling and reassembbling when it comes time to paint that you MUST a) make painting the car including engine bay number one priority or b) being patient and finding a straight rust free nice paint specimen before you begin this insanity
3) You will never be finished and will never get back your $$$ unless you buy a 1989 Turbo TA
yea in my situation i put so much into my TA cuz i will never sell it. Its "MY" car. I made it just for my needs.
These cars are great and unless like you said a 89 turbo or another rare model these cars shouldn't be worked on for profit. just won't happen. so know what your getting yourself into and just enjoy it. if you want a beater than only spend what u apsolutely need to. and drive it until its buried.
if you wana do wat me and a lot of other gusy have done, just do what you want and don't look back. just know going in whatever money you spend on it thats it. ain't coming back haha
thanks for watching my post guys.
i just got a new much better KITT scanner with sound effects and remote control. wasted 90bucks on 2 cheaper models of the scanner before i owned up to the good stuff.
lesson learned hope you guys are paying attention.
If I could 200% agree I would with Bobby_80s advice I would. I've owned my bird for 19 years and I'll say it again:
1) don't buy cheap because you'll buy it 3 times over before you finally buy the best, be patient and buy the best first.
2) If looks are important to you and be really honest with yourself, don't buy a rusty beater because you will waste SO much time disassembling and reassembbling when it comes time to paint that you MUST a) make painting the car including engine bay number one priority or b) being patient and finding a straight rust free nice paint specimen before you begin this insanity
3) You will never be finished and will never get back your $$$ unless you buy a 1989 Turbo TA
ok updated photos. i had to repaint the bumper becuase i buffed into the 1st paint job and had a ring between the 1st and second paint job which consisted of primer/paint/clear then had to tweak a few things and ended up scuffing, painting/clear then buffed through silly me.
but i immediately repainted that same day and drove it the next. its good to go.
so anyways i added grills which are infact leaf gutter mesh.
and the bumper came with pre-cut dark blackout plexi glass.
i had to make custom brackets from scratch to avoid drillling into the bumper. i tested it on the highway and even used my hands. its not going anywhere.
i also added a better scanner with a control module that has different scanner modes and the scanner sound effect which i connected to a weather proof speaker inside the front bumper. sounds cool.
ok 3 more with lights on. i hate how in the show they didnt do a better job to make these blackouts fit better. half the time on screen the blackouts and everything else are way off.
so i tried to make them flush with everything as best as possible
kitt1983 my name on knight registries is robertknight
i want to add that i spent 3 hours in the car today and i installed DEI 530T auto window modulator and it works great, now geting on the highway and off and going thru drive through is a breeze, no more holding the button down
with the one touch feature i have one tap on the button for up and down for both windows and the modulator takes care of the rest, one tap on the button and the window makes the full travel up or down
i recommend it for any car not just ours. and even newer cars could use it because newer cars has that feature but only for down on the driver window
kitt1983 my name on knight registries is robertknight
i want to add that i spent 3 hours in the car today and i installed DEI 530T auto window modulator and it works great, now geting on the highway and off and going thru drive through is a breeze, no more holding the button down
with the one touch feature i have one tap on the button for up and down for both windows and the modulator takes care of the rest, one tap on the button and the window makes the full travel up or down
i recommend it for any car not just ours. and even newer cars could use it because newer cars has that feature but only for down on the driver window
Bobby my name on knight registries is CJaguar265
Do you have any links or photos of this unit? How much is it?
I know of a dakota digital unit that you can control the windows and doors with a push of a button
it was 47-60 on ebay. DEI 530T. Google it or search on ebay. it will pop right up.
i have a ultra start alarm system unfortunately in order for it to control my windows and give me VENT mode for summer time i need an auxilary line on the alarm box. but it doessn't so it only operates with me in the car and driving.
which is fine for now with the one touch luxury.
in the future when i update my alarm sysytem i'll make sure it has a auxillary line and wire in my window module for remote acccess.
i already get remote lock access from the alarm system, when i arm my system it auto locks my doors, when i turn off my alarm it unlocks my doors, basic operation
If I could 200% agree I would with Bobby_80s advice I would. I've owned my bird for 19 years and I'll say it again:
1) don't buy cheap because you'll buy it 3 times over before you finally buy the best, be patient and buy the best first.
2) If looks are important to you and be really honest with yourself, don't buy a rusty beater because you will waste SO much time disassembling and reassembbling when it comes time to paint that you MUST a) make painting the car including engine bay number one priority or b) being patient and finding a straight rust free nice paint specimen before you begin this insanity
3) You will never be finished and will never get back your $$$ unless you buy a 1989 Turbo TA
Restoring/restomodding a car is always a loosing proposition $ wise unless you start with something that you have a customer paying for your work on. I doubt that you would make money back on even a TTA just fixing it up and looking to sell it, so you might as well just pick something that you like and want to keep or are willing to sink stupid money into.
As far as condition... I don't know that I've seen many cars for sale in what I would consider acceptable condition, and if they were, unless I knew who did it I don't know that I woud trust that the prety, shiny paint wasn't just covering rust and mud that will look like crap in a few months/years, so I'd rather take something unmessed with that may have some problems but you know what they are and sink my time and money into it. My current project... well, someone screwed up both quarters (had over 1" of bondo on both, but it wasn't covered up, I knew what I was getting into), someone jacked under the fender pinch seams tweeking both fenders, and someone hit something with the bottom of the front bumper bar bending it, but otherwise the car is straight and reasonably rust free, making it a perfect start for a project for me. I know what I'm getting into, don't need a lot of parts to get it right (have a lot of what I need anyway, from previous cars), it just needs some attention and work thrown it's way, which I'm more than capable of.
it was 47-60 on ebay. DEI 530T. Google it or search on ebay. it will pop right up.
i have a ultra start alarm system unfortunately in order for it to control my windows and give me VENT mode for summer time i need an auxilary line on the alarm box. but it doessn't so it only operates with me in the car and driving.
which is fine for now with the one touch luxury.
in the future when i update my alarm sysytem i'll make sure it has a auxillary line and wire in my window module for remote acccess.
i already get remote lock access from the alarm system, when i arm my system it auto locks my doors, when i turn off my alarm it unlocks my doors, basic operation
bobby can you post a link to the ebay seller that you bought from. they are over 20 + sellers selling the same part. I really dont want to get ripped off
Because the 82-90 headlights are bigger, they were showing THROUGH the blackouts.
I had a pair 91-92 headlight assemblys laying around, and they are smaller but on the higher side. so the light beam goes OVER the blackouts and doesnt show all the hardware holding the blackouts on that keeps them from flying off on the highway.
Nothing special the installation was very straight forward did it all today. i would say 5ish hours give or take. I had to re-align everything again with hood and fender, such a pain.
Since i wanted the kitt voice directly in front of me without extreme heavy duty modifiying of my dash i had to relocate my turn signal lights and high beam. i did what nightcruzer did to relocate stuff from the dash cluster, i soldered wires coming from where the cluster bulbs twist into the cluster pulled out the bulbs of course and ran the wires to their new location and connnected radioshack leds and bam. And they work great
Very, very nice. Those super close up shots made me realize your gauges are a different brand than mine. Yours retains the check engine light in the cluster and your words such as Oil, Fuel are above the numbered readings, instead of below. What brand was yours again?
Mine are also discontinued. They were by a comapny called 2001 Technologies Corp. Unfortunately my water temp gauge crapped out. For now I have a separate Cyberdyne water temp guage to keep the look consistent, but am researching companies to fix the electronics board. I even have schematics for the gauge, but I can't seem to repair it right.
oh man that sucks, its gotta be something that would go bad over time from heat, maybe a IC chip or transistor or capacitor. its most likely one piece gone bad.
i hope you can fix it.
cyberdyne refuses to fix anything. and never ever buy a fuel pressure gauge from them, 3 times they had to replace either the sensor or the gauge itself. the rest of their stuff i have had no problems with the rest of their products but im done with fuel pressure gauges from them.
i had to buy a glo shift fuel presure guage, the price was right but they only offer blue led and their company logo is displayed inside the gauge. not a fan of that but whatever works for now, everyone else wants 150-250 bucks for a red led pressure gauge.
oh man that sucks, its gotta be something that would go bad over time from heat, maybe a IC chip or transistor or capacitor. its most likely one piece gone bad.
i hope you can fix it.
cyberdyne refuses to fix anything. and never ever buy a fuel pressure gauge from them, 3 times they had to replace either the sensor or the gauge itself. the rest of their stuff i have had no problems with the rest of their products but im done with fuel pressure gauges from them.
i had to buy a glo shift fuel presure guage, the price was right but they only offer blue led and their company logo is displayed inside the gauge. not a fan of that but whatever works for now, everyone else wants 150-250 bucks for a red led pressure gauge.
that sucks dude
They are like the terminators. They dont help at all. All they do is just destory themselves or you.
sorry for anyone in Connecticut that wanted the same plate hahaha
i just wish i knew who had the knight plate, i would of asked if he wanted to switch haha but im happy with the kitt plate, like i said above i think it makes more sense since karr had karr on his plate
ok this winter i'll be correcting a few things that i fabricated or added to the car that i wasnt fully happy with.
for starters i bought a set of un-used still in the box UMI stock subframe connectors for 160 shipped. still searching for a shop i can trust to do a good job and at a fair amount.
i like my 82-84 wheel i picked up for 15bucks but not happy that it would cost around 150-200 to get it re-wrapped cuz the leather is worn and has a small chunk/notch in the leather ripped out. plus the horn with the firebird logo shows its age as well.
i decided for under 100 i could get a nice grant challenger style 440 wheel with pontiac horn and just installed it.
thanks kitt, yea im happy with the results. installing was easy but i wont find out if there is any turning the wheel kinks i need to adjust until spring.
thanks kitt, yea im happy with the results. installing was easy but i wont find out if there is any turning the wheel kinks i need to adjust until spring.
but you should of gotten a woodgrain steering wheel it would look much better
I am impressed with the work and time put in. Good job. Personally, I don't like the front clip at all, or the digital guages, both make the car look really dated. But it isn't my car and as long as you are happy with it, that is all that counts.
hey thanks for the post, i can respect and appreciate all kinds of opinions. Your right it makes it look dated but you can argue that over any car even with factory parts. depending on its age.
anyways i have other plans for this car for video projects so the look is key.
i just got the subframe connecotrs in. gota wait til spring and for a trsutworthyt shop to install them. im still alittle worried about stock exhaust clearance. my car has 3in piping with a big cat. i'll call UMI later and ask.
also going to try a third times a charm on my upper console. this should be the last time. never happy haha.
and going to a junk yard hopefully monday to see if i can get some parts like real black interior panels. my door sills and seat trim keep scraping off paint and can reveal the gray underneath.
Just thought i'd throw my in
What an amazing car!
To be honest i never really "got" why people loved 'birds so much.
But Wow, I'm floored. It looks absolutely incredible everything does.
I just took my time and read not only this post but i got the link for another of your posts. This is the coolest Bird i can honestly say i've ever seen.
My favorite part?
The leather seats you did with the door panels.
WOW! Cant remember if you put a link to where you bought them but it was prolly ebay. (If not please post it :P)
Love your carputer in another article.
Geeze man i say you have probably the top five nicest cars on here.
For the amount of time you've had it there hasn't been time wasted as far as i can see. I'm definitely sending you a friend request you have an awesome eye for what looks good in third gens. (That license plate is off the chain)
i accepted your friend request. thanks a bunch Jack.
yea im not done yet. never done. im customizing the knight rider style upper console to fit my own gadgets and switches but its hard cuz its flush with the headliner and not alot of room for the electronic guts you dont want seen.
also tweekin the carputer. programming the voice recogintion software so kitt can talk.
and itunes takes too darn long to load so im gona try to just use windows media player for now. much quicker.
also gota find a shop i can trust to do weld the umi subframes.
gona install a mix of dynamat extreme and b-quiet ultimate. dynamat for major spots and 1-2 layers of b-quiet for the rest.
gona clean/neaten up some of my custom wiring and then re-install the plastic panels but this time real black panels. im tired of the paint scratching off the painted gray panels.
also started and will finish converting all bulbs to led from superbrightleds.com
dome light is white led same as the trunk light. and floor lights i havent decided if it will be white also or red for the cool reasons.
also installing led kit for my taillights and got a knight rider style rear taillight blackout piece that i need to bolt on. and the leds will be sequential like my bulbs were before.
parking lights and front turn signals will be led as well.
also went to humount.com and bought a custom cd-player trim/bezel that lights up saying "knight industries" and trans am underneath.
i got my work cut out for me but i needed a winter project but its still too cold plus alot of stuff is just taking forever to come in the mail
i accepted your friend request. thanks a bunch Jack.
yea im not done yet. never done. im customizing the knight rider style upper console to fit my own gadgets and switches but its hard cuz its flush with the headliner and not alot of room for the electronic guts you dont want seen.
also tweekin the carputer. programming the voice recogintion software so kitt can talk.
and itunes takes too darn long to load so im gona try to just use windows media player for now. much quicker.
also gota find a shop i can trust to do weld the umi subframes.
gona install a mix of dynamat extreme and b-quiet ultimate. dynamat for major spots and 1-2 layers of b-quiet for the rest.
gona clean/neaten up some of my custom wiring and then re-install the plastic panels but this time real black panels. im tired of the paint scratching off the painted gray panels.
also started and will finish converting all bulbs to led from superbrightleds.com
dome light is white led same as the trunk light. and floor lights i havent decided if it will be white also or red for the cool reasons.
also installing led kit for my taillights and got a knight rider style rear taillight blackout piece that i need to bolt on. and the leds will be sequential like my bulbs were before.
parking lights and front turn signals will be led as well.
also went to humount.com and bought a custom cd-player trim/bezel that lights up saying "knight industries" and trans am underneath.
i got my work cut out for me but i needed a winter project but its still too cold plus alot of stuff is just taking forever to come in the mail
awesome
where did you get some UMI subframe connectors? did you get a good deal?
i got the umi subframes for 160 shipping included on this site in the parts for sale section. someone like you and me had them and never installed them.
Ok guys give me some time but i have more updates. late late tonight or tomorrow i will post pictures of the new upper console which is using a knight rider fiberglass shell but my own switches and design for my own applications.
but for now ill show you what pictures i do have on my computer so far.
i used a combo of dynamat and b-quiet. dynamat went on the walls of the car and the floor from where you feet go if your in the rear seats all the way to where your feet go if your in the front seats.
b-quiet covered under the rear seats and the entire floor of the trunk area. dynamat was used along the walls of the trunk and the rear wheel wells.
i still have to the doors and the very front of the floor boards because i'm waiting for the subframe connectors to be welded in.