BodyGeneral body information and techniques for restoration, repairs, and modification.
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WHAT is the problem?
I have found that on many 3rd gens that the RH (passenger) Door window get a chip on the top of the window. Ultiamately you cannot FIX the chip with some sort of magical substance, the only FIX to the window is to actually replace it with a window without the chip.
WHY does it Chip?
What I have found is that when you roll the window down all the way the window actually goes too far. When you roll the window back UP it catches on a Screw that attaches the outer window brush. Some years or some cars I have seen where they used Phillips Button head or round head screws which helped the problem... On my 1987 & 1989 for exampe they used a 7mm Hex head screw that the window catches on...
The following Pix show the Chip Clearly, and with the window rolled down you can see where the Screw could contact the window from the relationship of the offending screw and the chip on the window.
Obviously the window is rolling down too far, and there are Two solutions... The first is do not roll your window down all the way... Of course this is not always convenient... BUT to repair the problem is not that hard... What has happend is the Down Stop bumper which was originally installed on the lower part of the window has fallen off, or it may have simply rotted away... THis may also be the reason why some cars have a rusty spot on the center of the lower part of the door (more on that later).
HOW TO FIX the problem...
As you can see in the First pic (below) The bumper is completely missing from the bracket. To fix this you have to Drill out the Rivet. (I used a 1/4" Drill) See pix 2 & 3 Below.
First you have to roll the window down about Half way, this gives you access to actually get a drill onto the Rivet. You may roll the window up or down to get the optimum angle, Steeper is better but you cannot get a power drill into the door to get a good 90° angle onto it, so this is about as good as you can get. Drilling from the bottom is impossible as the rivet is rounded and the drill will continuously slip off.
Once you get the Rivet ring mostly off the remaining part of the rivet may simply fall out, BUT if you have a problem like I did on the LH side of my car part of the ring was left behind and I had to take some wire cutters to trim away the remaining part of the rivet and eventually take a hammer with a screwdriver to push out the rivet. (Be careful not to break the window when using the hammer, the chance is slight but anything is possible when preaching to the masses).
Now that you have the rivet out ( Pic 1 below ) you can install a new Bumper (GM may still have them available But I made my own with help from the "HELP" Section at AutoZone or Advance (Most Car parts places have the "Help" Section).
I bought the package number 45393 from the Help Section (See pic 2 ) The Package contains more than you really need, but you only need ONE package per side... You might be able to find another package with just the Bumper you need, or another source for the bumper, but this is what I used... Paid a whopping $3.88 + 6% Tax for the bugger...
The Third Pic shows the bumper that you are taking from the blister package, its the Big one.
The first thing you will notice is there is NO hole for the Screw to hold on the Bumper. I guess you could use the bumper as it is, and mount it to a washer or something similar and snap it on... I did not want to have to do this again anytime soon so I chose to drill a 1/8" Hole into the center of the bumper. THere is a nub or "tit" as they are called in the center of the bumper which marks the exact center... Drilling the hole exactly center is not necessary but helpful. (See pic 1 below ). Be mindful when drilling the hole as I did as you can poke your finger (I was smarter than that).
THe hole in the down stop bracket is perfectly matched for a #10 Screw. So I used a Truss Head screw which is similar to a Round head, Pan head or button head screw (See pic 2 below). What you want is something with a large head, but FLAT, you do not want the screw protruding out the bottom side and hitting the bottom of the door, this could cause the door to rust where it makes contact. Once you get the screw in the bushing it should look similar to pic 3 below.
NOW youre ready to assemble the whole thing into the door. You obvously put the rubber bushing toward the bottom, (See pic 1) I used a #2 Screwdriver and a 3/8" socket. (see pic 1 below)
The NUT that I used was a regular nut. I did not have a lock nut handy so I used a regular nut... If your buying these things, just get a Locking nut as it should not back out. If you have some of these parts on hand and decide that you are going to use a regular nut like I did then just take some plyers or wire cutters and damage the threads of the screw so that it does not back out... (See pic 2 below)
Now the window does not go down as far... (See pic 3) I had already completed the Side with the chip on my car before starting the picture taking process... So there are some RH and LH pictures so do not get too confused. MOST of the pictures are of the LH side, the only RH Door pix are of the first few to show the chip and the relationship to the screw. I had already changed my hex screw to a phillips screw on the outer window brush to even reduce the possiblity of it happening again on the RH side...
If you have any questions or comments, let me know and I will try to help. I did this on an 1987 Car, I am not sure if all years are the same but I suspect they are all similar...
JOhn
__________________ 87 FORMULA - 5.1 LB9/A4 T-tops 3.73 Modified (Yellow/Black)
87 FORMULA - 5.0 LB9/M5 T-tops 3.45 (Yellow/Gray)
89 FORMULA 350 - CONVERTIBLE 3.27 All original (Red/Gray) www.3rdgenformula.com
Dang... My 87's driver's door had a huge chip across it. I always tried to figure out how someone did that. Ultimatly just dicided they hit it with the t-top while trying to put the top glass back in with the door shut and window up...
But...this makes more sense. haha. Your fix looks to be a fantasic and cheap fix as well!
Quick question. Hard to see from the pics... With the new bumper in place, will the glass still go down below the rubber wipers? So when you rest your arm on the door its not on the glass?
My 86 is probably good fora while since it was garage kept and low miles. But Ill keep my eye on it, and might pick these bumpers up for a rainy day activity.
u finally sollved my mystery I always thought maybe someone tried breaking into to my car It's been there since I bought, and could never figure out why it was there....Ill have to do this so it doesnt happen anymore
The final pictures show that the window goes below the window wiper... THe windows completely disappear on my car...
If your windows go THUMP! when you roll it up you should consider doing this as the stop bumper is gone... On the outside wiper there are two brushes that are like blocks and the window can also hit on those when you roll it up the window goes THUMP! because its rolling down too far...
I have over 500$ in parts to rebuild those doors of mine... Everything possible I could find to rebuild, repair, restore and make BETTER i have purchased... But yes, I have new window fuzzies from a 1992 Camaro which were the better ones. I will try this fix too thanks man!
-Marc
__________________ "An engine is like an orchestra. It's made up of wind, brass, percussion, and a whole range of other complimentary sections, all working to make that beautiful music that we call 'performance'..."
271FWHP - 354FWTQ --> (UN-TUNED... Tuning in progress! Will DYNO again soon...)
For mods go here --> http://1986irocz.tripod.com/
14.2 @ 96 on the 1/4 mile...