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I've been doing some research on this site and have decided to try to solve my door sag problem with a kit from Top-Down. I do however think that the kit might not solve my problem totally as my doors are sagging rather horrifically. Based on the video, what else do you folks think I need to solve this door sag problem? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
TDS Should have the parts to fix that problem. If you feel like you need to replace the hinges then do it. Better to do it the first time. You can do it!!
yeah KDXmike,the hinge kits that Lon aka TDS sells will probably surprise you on the outcome.
I have the same problem with a driver hinge on one of my cars as your video.
I just can't bring myself to spend that kinda money on a hinge pin.
I know the quality is good from TDS. I have purchased some parts from there but,
$75 for hinge pins seems a little absurd to me.
I guess I'll keep searching for a method that fits the budget on the current project.
I've been doing some research on this site and have decided to try to solve my door sag problem with a kit from Top-Down. I do however think that the kit might not solve my problem totally as my doors are sagging rather horrifically. Based on the video, what else do you folks think I need to solve this door sag problem? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
well hey if u figure it out let me know what you did.i have the same problem although NOT as bad as you do on my 86 Iroc. Ive tried the replacing the little bushings that you get from the HELP section at autozone. and a new pin as well. it seems to work for about a month then back to the same old sagging deal/ Yeah The TDS is VERY expensive. BUT for that price will it work?? If they can gaurentee it then it might be an option for me. But i just cant see spendin that much money for something thats not warrantied. let me know.. peace
__________________ 1986 Camaro Iroc-Z 350 TPI Corvette motor 700r4 trans, BMR strut tower brace,BMR adj.Panhard Rod,Energy Sway Bar links,Eibach Pro Kit,J&M street lower control arms,Accel Distributer,wires.Blacked out all lights.5% Limo tint all the way around.
We only got a short glimpse of the actual lower hinge pin and bushings in your vid but it was long enough to see that it looked like the entire bushing was gone and possibly the hole was also getting worn. The upper hinge looked like it had a lot of movement in it too. The roller and pin on the lower hinge looked pretty good though which surprised me. Maybe if we could get a better look at the actual hinge pin area we could be more help.
yeah KDXmike,the hinge kits that Lon aka TDS sells will probably surprise you on the outcome.
I have the same problem with a driver hinge on one of my cars as your video.
I just can't bring myself to spend that kinda money on a hinge pin.
I know the quality is good from TDS. I have purchased some parts from there but,
$75 for hinge pins seems a little absurd to me.
I guess I'll keep searching for a method that fits the budget on the current project.
Its not $75 for a hinge pin.... You are getting a new upper bushins and a lower hinge pin/bushing set. Its the ONLY way to fix the door in my opinion. It will last longer than the factory parts ever did. Those greasable bushing kits are probably one of THE best investments that a thirdgen owner with some miles on their car can make.
OP... You can get all the parts to fix the door from TDS. I got new springs, new little rollers, new strikers...the works. Just doing the hinge kit will make the door open and close without sag. If you want the popping to stop, you have to replace that little roller that is worn out.
I have all the parts stored from when I was gonig to use them on my 87. My 86 only has 33,xxx miles on it, and the doors are perfect. So Imsaving them for when the factory parts go bad.
J.
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We only got a short glimpse of the actual lower hinge pin and bushings in your vid but it was long enough to see that it looked like the entire bushing was gone and possibly the hole was also getting worn. The upper hinge looked like it had a lot of movement in it too. The roller and pin on the lower hinge looked pretty good though which surprised me. Maybe if we could get a better look at the actual hinge pin area we could be more help.
Its not $75 for a hinge pin.... You are getting a new upper bushins and a lower hinge pin/bushing set. Its the ONLY way to fix the door in my opinion. It will last longer than the factory parts ever did. Those greasable bushing kits are probably one of THE best investments that a thirdgen owner with some miles on their car can make.
OP... You can get all the parts to fix the door from TDS. I got new springs, new little rollers, new strikers...the works. Just doing the hinge kit will make the door open and close without sag. If you want the popping to stop, you have to replace that little roller that is worn out.
I have all the parts stored from when I was gonig to use them on my 87. My 86 only has 33,xxx miles on it, and the doors are perfect. So Imsaving them for when the factory parts go bad.
J.
My lower hinge is fine,I already replaced that.
I was talking about the upper pins only.
And yeah kdxmike,I think you'll need to do the pins on the upper hinge as well.
The only advice I can give you right now is to shell out the dough for the tds kit.
The upper certainly isn't as bad. If money is an issue right now ... like it is for me... doing just the lower would really improve things, even if it Isn't perfect. But since you have to take the door off it really makes sense to do both the upper and lower if you can.
And while you're at it you might look at your striker and latch. Often times when a door has sagged and has been beating on those parts, while trying to close the door, they get trashed pretty quickly. Sometimes even to the point of busting the striker right out of the 1/4 panel.
The upper certainly isn't as bad. If money is an issue right now ... like it is for me... doing just the lower would really improve things, even if it Isn't perfect. But since you have to take the door off it really makes sense to do both the upper and lower if you can.
And while you're at it you might look at your striker and latch. Often times when a door has sagged and has been beating on those parts, while trying to close the door, they get trashed pretty quickly. Sometimes even to the point of busting the striker right out of the 1/4 panel.
I went ahead and ordered the parts and tools from TDS. I did order a new striker as well. I'm reluctantly gonna do the upper hinge as well as I'd rather just get it done and make sure it's right the first time around.
Funny that when I took the Car to Macco last year the service advisor said that they could fix the door by putting a car jack under the door and bending it back into place.
I knew that was BS because when I had a minor sagging door issue with my old '86 IROC about 20 years ago the body shop replaced the bushings. Which still didn't fix it and the jambs on my new paint job got messed up quickly.
Thanks to everyone for their input on this. My current IROC is an '88 5.7 TPI. I've owned it for 15 years now and really want to put the car to 'rights' as me and the car have been through alot together I will report back on the TDS parts and progress on the door to help others in the same 'pickle'.
how much was everything shipped to your door ? and what all did you get.
My doors sag worst then a 90 year old DoubleEE grandma tata's
I got a bunch of stuff including a new spring, striker bolt and some tools for the job. Depending on what the hinge repair kit has I might have to get an upper pin as well but I'll wait for the kit to arrive.
Door Hinge Bushing Tool (604040) = $19.95 Door Hinge Repair Kit for 1982-92 F-Bodies (Non-Greasable) (200370) = $74.00 Door striker bolt (203170) = $9.95 Door Detent Spring (605001) = $5.00 5 Pc. Long-Pin Punch Set (303120) = $10.00 UPS 3 day shipping $24.40
Thats not to shabby, I need to suck it up and get his done, my doors only really bounce when I hit tracks, but i bet it would seal better with the new hardware.
Doors sag, this is natural. Open your door and try to pick up on it
If you have any play then you need the kit. If the door is rigidly mounted still then all you need is an adjustment
Got plenty of play I can tell there shot just by hitting a big bump and hearing them both slam, not to mention I can see basically all the door bushings are shot.
I re hung both doors to the best I could, slight improvement just rehanging them
Lemme know how your kit goes, like if your missing anything or need anything else,
Id like to do this.
Funny that when I took the Car to Macco last year the service advisor said that they could fix the door by putting a car jack under the door and bending it back into place.
Mike
Wholly shittt...that is scary! If some shop told me that, I would slap them silly!
The paint on my ground effects is rubbed off like that but there is no play if I lift up on the door. I think these plastic ground effects bow up in certain spots and are going to rub regardless of how good the hinges are.
The paint on my ground effects is rubbed off like that but there is no play if I lift up on the door. I think these plastic ground effects bow up in certain spots and are going to rub regardless of how good the hinges are.
Mine did the samr thing I took a razor blade to the ground effect on the door. Painted the door jams and new pins and busshings now it looks new again.