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Ok, so I've been doing front end body work namely sanding and painting. First thing I sanded was a used white fender I bought. The paint came off easily and normally with a rust stripper disc on my drill. But I've recently started sanding my black hood that is full of blisters. A palm sander with 40grit paper barely did anything. Using the drill gets it off slowly but it's really weird. It's almost like tar, and there's no dust what so ever. When I sand it it clumps up then falls off. And I don't see any primer. Plus I can only sand for a few minutes at a time cause it gets REALLY hot. Has anyone ever experienced this and do they have any tips? I'm about ready to get my angle grinder out!
Thanks
Alex
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__________________ Ain't nothin' like it, it's a shining machine
Got the feel for the wheel, keep the movin' parts clean ~ Van Halen
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I'm fairly certain nobody ever waxed this car. It was covered in a layer of grime when I bought so washed it with water a drop of dish soap, then rinsed it a few more times. I wouldn't be surprised if it was rustoleom as the car looks like it was painted a few years ago and a horrible job done masking things off. But, they'd have to be pretty dang good with a rattle can cause it *looks* like a decent job.
Thanks
Alex
__________________ Ain't nothin' like it, it's a shining machine
Got the feel for the wheel, keep the movin' parts clean ~ Van Halen
When I encounter a part that needs striping like this i never use heavy grit paper. The eception is to putty raw metal. Even then, I go to a well Do about a max of a 3x3 ft area at a time. The water hose finishes the removal and a coat of phosphorus conditioner stops the flash rust. Flash rust you can't see. Then start back with a good sealer/primer or self etching primer. Follow the manufactures instructions for the paint system you decide on. I personally love dupont buy PPG or Sherwin Williams are also good brands. Check out Eastwood ---> http://www.eastwood.com/
They Have great tools and paints also for body work. Free catalog and headacke preventing chemicals and tools
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Couple of years ago I painted my Jeep with Duplicolor paint shop crap.Never did like the looks of it.This winter when I went to sand it off it did the same thing your talking about.There were spots that turned to a goo when the sandpaper hit it.Went through lots of paper.
Hi you might remember me as the A-hole from various posts who goes on and on about NOT using lacquer or enamel based paints...and this is EXACTLY why. Someone did a dandy job with whatever crud paint they bought. Its bonded marvelously.
You want that junk off? Well, if its Lacquer, then 'Lacquer Thinner' on a rag will take it right off. CAUTION...lacquer thinner is 'hot' enough to ruin other paints if theyre exposed long enough.
Yet another option is to use a stripping disc with the little holes in it so you can see through them when theyre spinning, they dont clog as badly.
Lastly, there is paint stripper. If *I* was doing it, Id drill a tiny hole through the hood hinge into the fender area. This way, you can use the drillbit as a drift pin to line up those holes to align your hood where it was when you took it off. Saves you a LOT of cussing.
THEN, get a grill scrubby pad thing with a handle...slather your hood with stripper and let it sit for a little while before attacking it with a sheetrock knife and a putty knife. After getting the heavy paint off (have a tarp under your hood and PLEASE wear heavy rubber gloves and some safety glasses. I HAVE gone to the ER after getting it in my eye.) Use the scrubby pad (again with handle) to sort of work a little of the stripper across the metal. NOW, use an old bucket with some water...and scrub the panel SEVERAL times with a new scrubby and plenty of water to neutralize the paint stripper.
Paint your car with a 2 part epoxy primer and it'll stay rust free for a long long time
Thanks for the info. I'll try the lacquer thinner first, see how that works. If not I guess I'll just keep sanding it.
As for primer. I'm just using Duplicolor general purpose auto primer with a sealer on top (haven't decided which kind yet). I'm going to have a body shop prime it better and paint it as soon as I'm done with the body work so I'm just trying to slow rust (hence the sealer)
Thanks
Alex
__________________ Ain't nothin' like it, it's a shining machine
Got the feel for the wheel, keep the movin' parts clean ~ Van Halen
