BodyGeneral body information and techniques for restoration, repairs, and modification.
Sponsored by ThirdGen Ranch
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
on my 1989 iroc z28 (350) TPI the cruise control didnt work. The reason it didn't work was because the cable would fall off the bracket. I was leaving a grocery store where i had just cashed a check for some money to go get some parts. i thought hey I'll ziptie the cable on there (AGAIN) and see how long it holds. cause i had already done it. i idled out of my parking spot put it in drive and quickly accelerated towards the road and let off to slow down. i was approximately 15 yards from the road when the throttle stuck. i quickly tapped the gas which didn't free it. i tried to get my foot beneath it but ended up smashing it all the way down because i hit a pot hole where semi's would park i dodged a car and a truck and aimed for the telephone pole rather than the building and slammed into it. it still drives just needs a new front clip and a a hood. i'ts sad how an item costing a 1.37$ for a pack of 20 could take out a 1 of 111 1LE in a matter of seconds i picked up for 2400$ im almost positive they r not going to total it
on my 1989 iroc z28 (350) TPI the cruise control didnt work. The reason it didn't work was because the cable would fall off the bracket. I was leaving a grocery store where i had just cashed a check for some money to go get some parts. i thought hey I'll ziptie the cable on there (AGAIN) and see how long it holds. cause i had already done it. i idled out of my parking spot put it in drive and quickly accelerated towards the road and let off to slow down. i was approximately 15 yards from the road when the throttle stuck. i quickly tapped the gas which didn't free it. i tried to get my foot beneath it but ended up smashing it all the way down because i hit a pot hole where semi's would park i dodged a car and a truck and aimed for the telephone pole rather than the building and slammed into it. it still drives just needs a new front clip and a a hood. i'ts sad how an item costing a 1.37$ for a pack of 20 could take out a 1 of 111 1LE in a matter of seconds i picked up for 2400$ im almost positive they r not going to total it
WOW THATS MAJORLY S**CKS!! Hope ur ok. Got pics? If u decide to part it out I want the rear bumper emblem 5.7 Tuned port injection. if its in silver.
__________________ 1986 Camaro Iroc-Z 350 TPI Corvette motor 700r4 trans, BMR strut tower brace,BMR adj.Panhard Rod,Energy Sway Bar links,Eibach Pro Kit,J&M street lower control arms,Accel Distributer,wires.Blacked out all lights.5% Limo tint all the way around.
What caused the throttle to stick, the cruise control? I've had mine stick twice at WOT in all the years I've owned my car. It scared the hell out of me but i've always managed to get it into neutral turn the car off and pull over safely. I thought it was the throttle cable or throttle body sticking what else would cause this? I don't mean to hijack your thread but I don't want this to happen to anyone else's car either. Good luck getting you car back together.
That really sucks. I wouldn't be so sure that they won't try to consider it totalled. The insurance company won't know or care about the 1LE option. 1986iroc350, don't be a vulture so soon, especially for something as small as an emblem!!! lol
__________________ Bright Platinum Metallic with painted hoodbird, 17x9 Year One Snowflake Wheels, smoothed inner fenders, shaved door locks and antenna. Black leather interior.
Current Drivetrain: LT1 and T56 with SLP 1 3/4" primary headers and catback, Borg Warner 9-bolt.
If its minor enough, don't tell your insurance & fix it yourself. That's what I do & save on my insurance rates.
Chances are, they won't fix it, unless you have full coverage anyways.
I'm just wondering why you never spent the $1.37.....
Or why you tried to put your foot under a pedal, instead of hitting the top of another one (the brakes)
I'm guessing it was panic. I had my throttle body stick once but fortunately it wasn't a very dangerous situation. I tried tapping it and that didn't work so I shifted into neutral and shut it off as I pulled over. Mine was caused by just a little bit of gunk in the throttle body. I cleaned it very very well with carb cleaner and tested it many times to be sure it didn't happen again. I can't picture how the cruise control cable could've caused the throttle to stick. Are you sure yours wasn't gunked too?
__________________ Bright Platinum Metallic with painted hoodbird, 17x9 Year One Snowflake Wheels, smoothed inner fenders, shaved door locks and antenna. Black leather interior.
Current Drivetrain: LT1 and T56 with SLP 1 3/4" primary headers and catback, Borg Warner 9-bolt.
well it was only 1 block away from the insurance company and i paid for insurance a day before lol it starts runs and drives just no power steering cause the belt came off lol it was full coverage i doubt they will total it i'll get pictures up tonight i have them but im about to leave for work and um the pole is fricking tilt I'll get a pic of it too but uh i smashed the brakes but i had wider tires put on for traction so the power plus tires wasn't helping I'll even take a pic of where i was lol i had NO time to react i was ****ed especially when i smashed it xD size 14 shoes didn't help lol but yeah I have to fix it and if they total it im buying it back i dont fricking care i don't want the 1LE's going down to 110 lol
forgot to add lol i put a ziptie on the throttle bracket to hold the cruise control on i'll get a pic of it for sure lol
Why are so many of you stating that you're throwing the car into neutral? You do realize that a WOT in neutral can damage the engine? Just turn the car off!!!
Also, if you know that you have a problem, especially related to the throttle or brakes, don't you think it's only responsible to fix them properly? Using a cheap cable tie was not that smart.
Sorry that the car got wrecked, but as I read your post, the first thought that came to mind was that you caused this. It could have been worse if you were cruising down the road at 45, approaching a red light and slammed into the cars in front of you. Someone could have been seriously hurt over a repair that you knew needed to be taken care of. I know I'll get flamed for these comments, but the irresponsibility is appaulling.
Why are so many of you stating that you're throwing the car into neutral? You do realize that a WOT in neutral can damage the engine? Just turn the car off!!!
How so? I have always heard 'N' was recommended to slow down faster at any speed. Ive done it coutless times to drop a nice loud rev at mudstains on the highway.
hey they will mostly likely total it... they totaled mine and mine was probably in better shape.. hell my and my uncle took off they front clip bumper brought it to body shop they fixed it up for less then $150.. could of done a better job but it works.. they total my car at $1900...
How so? I have always heard 'N' was recommended to slow down faster at any speed. Ive done it coutless times to drop a nice loud rev at mudstains on the highway.
Neutral takes the driveline out of the equation. In your case, the RPM drops because your foot is not on the accelerator, but at wide open throttle, the revs go thru the roof instantly.
Neutral takes the driveline out of the equation. In your case, the RPM drops because your foot is not on the accelerator, but at wide open throttle, the revs go thru the roof instantly.
I agree, just kill the car. What is the point in putting it in neutral when you can just shut it off...
Neutral takes the driveline out of the equation. In your case, the RPM drops because your foot is not on the accelerator, but at wide open throttle, the revs go thru the roof instantly.
He said the throttle stuck. Not went WOT.
My guess is, it may have just gotten stuck at like 2500 rpms, not allowing it to drop to idle.
Mine did that before (got stuck), when a shop fixed my steering column, but the pedal lever was getting stuck against the lower panel sometimes. It was real hard to figure out, because it was seemingly happening at random.
my 1le were replaced with standard camaro brakes cause of the dumb **** who got rid of rotors and calipers and ur right i had brake issues lol but it didnt stop me formt locking them up i just had no ****ing road to stop and foot off gas? what r u talking about it was stuck to the floor but i doubt u took the time to read it since u were so tied into critizing other mistakes and exploiting ther idiocracy? ur an a$$ period
Why are so many of you stating that you're throwing the car into neutral? You do realize that a WOT in neutral can damage the engine? Just turn the car off!!!
Also, if you know that you have a problem, especially related to the throttle or brakes, don't you think it's only responsible to fix them properly? Using a cheap cable tie was not that smart.
Sorry that the car got wrecked, but as I read your post, the first thought that came to mind was that you caused this. It could have been worse if you were cruising down the road at 45, approaching a red light and slammed into the cars in front of you. Someone could have been seriously hurt over a repair that you knew needed to be taken care of. I know I'll get flamed for these comments, but the irresponsibility is appaulling.
no i completely agree with u im not gunna flame u lol i was on my way to pick up parts the bracket cruise lock was one of them after i post the pics you will understand why i had no option to stop i had no room that simple and i left off of the brakes to dodge a truck or i should say keep him from hitting my driver rear end i had no choice cause if i woulda got hit they would of totaled it for sure...
My guess is, it may have just gotten stuck at like 2500 rpms, not allowing it to drop to idle.
Mine did that before (got stuck), when a shop fixed my steering column, but the pedal lever was getting stuck against the lower panel sometimes. It was real hard to figure out, because it was seemingly happening at random.
again
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goany
i tried to get my foot beneath it but ended up smashing it all the way down
my 1le were replaced with standard camaro brakes cause of the dumb **** who got rid of rotors and calipers and ur right i had brake issues lol but it didnt stop me formt locking them up i just had no ****ing road to stop and foot off gas? what r u talking about it was stuck to the floor but i doubt u took the time to read it since u were so tied into critizing other mistakes and exploiting ther idiocracy? ur an a$$ period
I'm an ***? What did I say to deserve that? NOTHING!
Throttle stuck is no different than your foot pressing it to that position as far as the ECM is concerned. Just shut it off, dont put it in N. Leave it in gear for the fastest slow down. You also have that E-brake for, you know EMERGENCIES
N the RPM drops because your foot is not on the accelerator, but at wide open throttle, the revs go thru the roof instantly.
Maybe at WOT yeah , but ive done it at highway speeds and my revs never went anywhere near the redline or even amber for that matter , maybe 500rpm or a bit more if that.
Maybe at WOT yeah , but ive done it at highway speeds and my revs never went anywhere near the redline or even amber for that matter , maybe 500rpm or a bit more if that.
but u must take into consideration i was already close to shifting into second gear lol so shifting into nuetral with throttle stuck wide open woulda resulted in a redline and probaly a bang and crack of block with my luck lol
some of you guys have no clue. When you are driving and put the car in neutral, the RPMs will only fluctuate some. No engine damage will occur. But when the throttle sticks at WOT, it can damage the engine. Plus, anyone driving and putting the car in neutral will also more than likely release the throttle. In this case it was stuck!!
pocket we are not here to argue the neutral shifting if u want to argue go over to the driveline section or transmission and set a topic. as for not being roadworthy i hadn't drove the car in 2 months i had a part list over 600$ of little things one of the biggest was a wiper motor at 85$ the e-brake end was one of them like i said shi* happens i'll live and so will the car now for the pictures dun dun dun...
K i was here when the throttle stuck i know it looks far but it's not promise
and here is where i was when i steered to the right to dodge the truck and car and slam the brakes after i had accidentally smashed the gas lol and as u can see the black marks on the yellow lines they did a good job cleaning them off the street which they do in our town dunno y its like 50$ a foot if your caught doing a burnout lol accidents are tax paid though lol
Well Goany I hope you get her repaired soon. It's always sad to see one of these cars wrecked at least the motor survived. I think there was a third gen vid on youtube dedicated to wrecks almost brought a tear to my eye.
__________________
The Camaro looks like a hundred- thousand-dollar car, and if we saw Camaros as seldom as we see Ferraris, we’d probably pay that for it. -Car & Driver (1985)
wow i actually watched that one lol it made me sick cause you could tell like 1/4 of the wrecks were retards trying to show off but yeah i'll get her fixed up for sure
Wow, that sucks. Unfortunatly theres more damage to the car than just some sheet meal parts. The rail is definatly back on the drivers side, radiator support is back. The car needs to go on a frame machine to be right. Any regular insurance company will total it.
On a side note, are you sure you have a 1LE??? As far as I know a 1LE wouldnt have cruise and why would anyone get rid of the brakes? I know the 1Le brake parts are hard to find but all auto part stores list the pads and rotors.
cruise was added but they replaced everything calipers and all not my decision lol then they didnt even flush the brake fluid frickin idiots and no the frame is fine already had it inspected thanx though lol it is what i was worried about to
Who ever told you theres no frame damage is very wrong, get it looked at by someone else. Have it squared up, I can see in your pictures is not right. Was the AC added later too?
yep yep i put the AC in not all of it at the time i didnt have money for all the lines and **** but i just got my job and have nothing better to do with my money and i got 3 estimates on it they all said i was lucky the frame wasn't bent or they would total it more than likely. personally whether they total it or not it's not a big deal i'll just buy it back. Well when i bought it, it was a junk box lol i bought it as a project car to put with as a bonus with mechanics jobs but after i bought it and **** started changing everything out and found some weird stuff lol and then found the sticker deal in the tire jack box with all the original codes and crap and realized what i had and **** myself i don't even think the 1LE does much for it's value but like someone said won't matter to insurance company but love the car and if the frame for some reason when the three shops didnt see it lol. Turns out to be bent or whatever i'll just get it straightened not a big deal lol won't cost me nothing my boss told me he could get a friend to do it so not worried if it is but would be nice if it wasn't lol. also if anyone has a front clip laying around through me a price xD cause im buying a cowl hood lol
here in tx when a car is deemed totalled the color of the title changes and renders it pretty much worthless to a collector(i would assume) i don't belive that you can ever get it cleared after that. i would hide it in my garage and not answer the door when the adjuster knocks if it's not already too late... just my opinion i feel for u man i've had two of my non third gen cars totaled out by insurance got screwed both times although if u don't have full coverage u may not have to worry cause they can't do nething neway
Last edited by tomclayborn; 08-02-2009 at 08:47 PM.
lol i do!!! from my crash.. oddly enough after sitting out for a couple days taken off the bumper in the sun it straighten most of it out... just a little bump in the head light pocket from what i can see.. and rock chips.. but other then that its in good shape... but the headlight mounting is ****ed on it from crash..
You so asked for a problem with the way you put that zip tie in place. Here's what should've happened:
Option 1- Get the correct retainer clip that fits on the end of the stud and allows the cable end to slide.
Option 2- Disconnect the cruise control cable and just don't use cruise control!
Aside from this, I'm also doubting that it's a 1LE car. The 1LE brakes utilize different spindles altogether, so you can't just swap the standard calipers and rotors onto the spindles of a 1LE car. What indications do you have that it was originally a 1LE equipped car?
__________________ Bright Platinum Metallic with painted hoodbird, 17x9 Year One Snowflake Wheels, smoothed inner fenders, shaved door locks and antenna. Black leather interior.
Current Drivetrain: LT1 and T56 with SLP 1 3/4" primary headers and catback, Borg Warner 9-bolt.
the codes from the factory captain there was a paper that had fell off in the jack box that had all the factory codes on it i eventually through it away it wouldnt stick lol but ran the codes after i realized no ac and pieced together the special brake job that took 2 days to do lol costed the previous owner a pretty penny
Honestly the collector value of your car was gone before the accident if it truly is a 1LE car. By changing the brakes and adding ac you've made it into a regular Z28. I highly doubt that it is a 1LE car though. The 1LE cars had different heater boxes and dashes that didn't have holes for AC as well as the already stated brake differences.
well im not gunna sit here and argue about it being a 1le or not i know what i know iv'e seen what i seen im not here to grace u with a 1le presence lol as far as im concerned it only serves sintemental value but its cool flame me if u want dont care im not here to pose thanks for the concerns bout car let yah know when it's alll fixed
This thing is going to total. Plan on it. It CAN be fixed, of course, but expect the cost to be more than the book value of the car. I would expect left rail damage in addition to the rad support and fender apron. A 3/4 left or whole nose will be needed to fix it. Perhaps the rad support, rail, and apron can be saved, but you will need a frame machine, some hours, and some $ to get it done. Good luck. Oldtimer. (A has been auto adjuster from days gone by.)