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Ok everybody this is my 86 Trans Am, its my first car I got when I was 16, I got it in October of '07 so almost 2 years, that year I drove it through Chicagos nice snowy cold winter (bad idea)
Project log time, this is what Im dealing with rusted out floor pans but no worries I cut a almost brand new floor pan from a donor camaro, barely any surface rust.
It took me about 45mins- 1hr to get all the interior out, easy as pie to do the easiest part of this whole project.
Here are some pics of the project:
Pass. side
Drivers side isnt that bad
I will be posting more pics after this weekend, I havent even gotten it in the garage yet...lol
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__________________ Live Every Day Like It's Your Last.
It looks like the pass side is worse than the drivers side usually its the other way around cause of the exhaust. Yeah your best bet is with a donor car thats what I did with my old 91 cause I wasn't about to pay $200 a side for new pans.
Yup I got a nice floor pan from the firewall all the way back to the gas tank crease for $150, now its time to learn how to weld, good thing Im taking a class for it at school
__________________ Live Every Day Like It's Your Last.
Well Im going to remove the engine/trans, drill out the spot welds do some cutting with the air grinder. Then prep every thing to be welded in. Im taking a welding class the end of the semester so its not a problem
__________________ Live Every Day Like It's Your Last.
good luck with that floorpan. im glad my camaro has no rust but, my monte ss floor is gonna need the same work as this one. hopefully you might teach me something post pics of progress!!!
__________________ 1984 Monte SS daily driver
350 with air gap intake, 600cfm edelbrock carb, headers with dynomax superturbo mufflers. Posi diff with high gears and a turbo 350 tranny
1985 Camaro Z28 project HOSS!
350 vortec iroc manifolds and y pipe flowmaster exhaust edelbrock intake non posi and rebuilt 700r4 with towing package shift kit
I have a question. Have you gotten the old floorpan out of the donor car? If so how did you separate it from the rear subframe. I bought a donor car and had to leave that part because it was permanently attached. My passenger side is nearly perfect but I was able to get the front and middle but the back will take some fabrication. I would also check where the pan is welded to the rocker and up on the kick panel. There is always hidden rust there evenj on a car that doesnt look rusty. What part of Chicago do you live in? Maybe we could compare notes.
I had the guy take a torch gun to the sub frames since I didnt want to take anymore time to sawall the rest out, then used a hammer to beat the piss outta the rest of the body to take the whole thing out from the top, we could just drop it to the ground because the engine and trans were still in it + gasssss ( yes I hit a line, but thankfully no fire )
I'll take a pic of it in a couple mins and try to post it up.
__________________ Live Every Day Like It's Your Last.
Donor car piece, don't worry the black spots are just insulation from the carpet I had fun with the propane torch with, I used a sesaline torch to cut parts of the pan though
Man that looks good. I cut right through the subframe up front. I probably would have done the same in the rear but there was hidden rust so I just let it go. That pan looks pretty good. As I said I didnt need to do the passenger side. I did some welding tonight. Its not pretty but I am getting a little better. I am using a mig with gas. Just have to make sure the metal is clean.
Becarful when you open the doors once you have the floor cut out. Try to leave atleast one closed at all times. I've done floors in a few 3rd gens, took me two cars to learn this (both were t-top cars). I had both doors open when welding in the new pan, didn't have the car braced properly, and the car flexed to the point the doors needed severe alingment (though for some reason the t-tops fit back in fine still). Next time I do a t-top car, I plan on making a set of steel bars that will hold the place of the t-tops...hopefully prevent any unwanted flexing.
When I do a floor now, I put the car on jack stands (under the axle and a-arms), and use bottle jacks under the subframe where it meets the pan. Along with some at each end of the car. I raise the jacks just enough to put a tiny bit of pressure on them.
Hard top cars seem to be more forgiving, but I still don't take any more chances.
__________________ 82 Z28--waiting for 400/Th350
83 Z28--355/T5, Sort of an IROC clone
88 Sc---was V6, waiting for 355/700R4
87 K5---355/465/205, 4.88's, 36's
95 CBR1000F--DD in the summer
Every one that I have done has been with a set of aftermarket pans, which extend to the inner rocker pannel. You can always make a patch pannel out of the metal you take out of your old floor (if you can find some still good).
Or if you are talking about the area behind the front fenders (in your most recent picture), the I'd head back to the donor car if you can. I've been lucky in the the 8 I've done haven't needed that part of the firewall fixed (it's usually the area where the pan meets the firewall).
__________________ 82 Z28--waiting for 400/Th350
83 Z28--355/T5, Sort of an IROC clone
88 Sc---was V6, waiting for 355/700R4
87 K5---355/465/205, 4.88's, 36's
95 CBR1000F--DD in the summer
I know its been a while since you posted your question but I cut out a good rust free panel (from my donor car) and I am going to cut out the old and weld it in. I am still learning to weld. It dont look the best but I just grind it down and fill in the gaps. I am getting better.
