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while fixing some rust across my drivers floor pan i noticed some rust across my firewall right below the dash on the passenger side, i've always noticed a clunk between 1-2 shift but i always figured it was my shift kit, seeing this rust makes me realize my frame might be weak, im looking for opinions on how to fix this rust, or if its even fixable, just scrapping the car is not an option as i have too much money invested in other areas. need some input pls, by the way once i finish my floor pan rust i will add some alston subframes
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__________________ 91RS B4C 350 Auto(2500 stall, transgo shift kit),AC delete, smog delete, eldelbrock tes, Don y pipe, dual cat, 3" magnaflow catback, ls1 front brakes, rear pbr's, sphon k-member, tds wonder bar, UMI A Arms, intrax lowering springs 2" msd ignition, umi lcarb, lca's pandhard bar, C6 wheels, plus more misc stuff, Dyno 241rwhp 8/8/09 w/probs
88 iroc l98 350 HSR w/ 58mm holley throttle,headman shorties, flowmaster exhaust,full msd ign. lowered 2" , shaved everything, auto start alarm, th350 tranny with shift kit and 2400 stall, , 3.73 rear end, smog delete, ac delete, gutted interior, battery in trunk cuz engine looks cleaner,nos kit just arrived, umi lcarb and lca's, panhard bar
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That's not that bad...it can be cut out and fixed relatively easily. Can you get to the other side of that on the firewall? Either way, there is not that much there and it is along the seam...cut it out and weld in a piece there on the bend...reseal and paint it.
i figured that thanks, what type of sheet metal should i use i have 16 gauge now would the be enough, and no i cant acces from the engine bay, not unless i take off my heater/ac box
another question is what type of insulation should i use i scapped the old carpet and under carpet tearing everything off, i will use por 15 on the floor once its all done but need to look into some type of heat and noise barrier
its fixable, but its a lot of work to do it right. Just make sure you get all the rot out before you weld it back up, then seal it really well. Removing the a/c box will really help.
__________________ "with a big enough hammer, anything is possible"
"The one who dies with the most tools wins!"
anythings fixable ive seen worse but it clunking from first to second is not good.i would get that piece of floor out of a junkyard car and weld a new seam in then put new subframe connectors in.
Why is it that these cars have rust issues everywhere there's sealer? Is there a possible issue with the sealer used and the e coat? A typical area is the rear tire storage area, The seams with the filler have the rust, nothing else. Luckily for me, mine have only a little surface rust there but my 87 has little rust issues under the seam filler on the rear panel, just above where the bumper mounts and some light surface rust under the a pillars. Very typical that the issues would start there.
yes i do have rust along where the sealer is mainly, but i do plan on fixing it one thing at a time, and then eventually adding some sub frames.
this is what else im dealing with
drivers side
Yeah, weird huh especially since it seems the whole car is e coated/zinc dipped whatever. You'll quickly find out when welding, it's even visible in your pics, the yellow/white traces aroudn the welds are the edges of where the zinc burned off (which makes it a pita to weld in spots where you can't properly clean down to bare metal) The sealer GM used must have been acidic or something and compromised the zinc layer, or the sealant wasn't put on carefully and retains water.
I had a similar rust problem on my drivers side, however it wasn't quite as extensive. The repair turned out very nicely. I have a rust free titleless parts car I didn't feel bad cutting up to save my Z
