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ok I've done alot of searching and reading so now I will try a new thread. I have an 87 firebird trans am and replaced my passenger door with one from what I thought was also a 1987 firebird. after removing the door panel the inside plastic weather shield on the door says 1985. I read in other posts doors from all the years 82-92 should work and fit. The problem I'm having is after putting the door in it's home with some plywood on the door sill to raise it up a bit, well it sits in perfect then when I tighten the bolts on the bottom hinge only, after i unlatch the door it won't close correctly. what it does it seemingly stick out on the top alot in the back by the latch. my driver door when i remove the striker i can push the door in and it fits in perfect, but passenger side won't push into place feels like it's hitting somewhere. and that's with the striker out completely. I replaced the lower hinge pin and bushings and didn't change much. one thing i've read is about adjusting the striker bolt, but mine don't seem to have any adjustment, the hole is only slightly bigger than the bolt. like a fool i didn't mark where the old hinges rested on the body so now it's like a guessing game. makes me wish i had just removed old bushings and left hinge attached to body. would rather have spent another $83 on the bushings and not had to worry about alignment. I replaced my driver side bushings while the door was still on the car it was much easier.
so if anyone has any suggestions, tips, or tricks involving door alignment I'd greatly appreciate it. also the upper hinge bushings on my passenger door are in good shape, no slop when i pull up on the door. Thanks guys.
ok I've done alot of searching and reading so now I will try a new thread. I have an 87 firebird trans am and replaced my passenger door with one from what I thought was also a 1987 firebird. after removing the door panel the inside plastic weather shield on the door says 1985. I read in other posts doors from all the years 82-92 should work and fit. The problem I'm having is after putting the door in it's home with some plywood on the door sill to raise it up a bit, well it sits in perfect then when I tighten the bolts on the bottom hinge only, after i unlatch the door it won't close correctly. what it does it seemingly stick out on the top alot in the back by the latch. my driver door when i remove the striker i can push the door in and it fits in perfect, but passenger side won't push into place feels like it's hitting somewhere. and that's with the striker out completely. I replaced the lower hinge pin and bushings and didn't change much. one thing i've read is about adjusting the striker bolt, but mine don't seem to have any adjustment, the hole is only slightly bigger than the bolt. like a fool i didn't mark where the old hinges rested on the body so now it's like a guessing game. makes me wish i had just removed old bushings and left hinge attached to body. would rather have spent another $83 on the bushings and not had to worry about alignment. I replaced my driver side bushings while the door was still on the car it was much easier.
so if anyone has any suggestions, tips, or tricks involving door alignment I'd greatly appreciate it. also the upper hinge bushings on my passenger door are in good shape, no slop when i pull up on the door. Thanks guys.
I am not positive, I may be wrong as well.
But there might be adjustment on the actual latch located IN the door causing it to not allow the door to close.
no the bolt holes for the latch itself have no adjustment. the thing is the door latches in and sits perfectly with no bolts tightened. but as soon as i tighten the bottom hinge and open the door it won't sit back into place even with striker bolt out. even if i get it sitting in perfect and tighten all the bolts including upper hinge does the same thing.
well I have determined what is causing my door not to close all the way, there is a difference on the bottom of this door versus my old one. the difference is that the door comes out past the ground effects leaving a lip that isn't present on my other door. on the other one the ground effect is alot more flush with the bottom of the door. this extra lip is what is hitting and not allowing me to close the door all the way. so i've decided i either need to grind off the lip on the door, or smooth down the area where it contacts. i suppose i should measure my old door and see if this one is taller or if it's the ground effect that's shorter. if it's the gfx, then i should def smooth down the car and not the door.
