augie1209

I decided I'm going to paint my car myself: one, for pride, two, ovbiously save sum cash, and also just to learn so that I know how to do it!!! If you all could give me EXTENSIVE INFO on everything i would appreciate it. I dont care if your help takes up a whole page, that would be awesome. I mainly need to know everything like: What types of grit sand paper to use to strip old paint? What type grit to smoothen that down? How many times i should prime? What types of grit do i use after prime, and do i sand after every prime or just after multiple coats are on? How much do i sand primer and should i wet sand it (what grits)? How many coats of base coat? What grit progression do i use on base coats? And do i sand after every base coat or after all have been applied? How far on grits to i go as far as smoothness and whether or not i wet sand? And clear coats, how many? Do i wet sand after every clear application? And what is the grit progression on clear? And any info you have on polishing? Also how long is it necessary to wait in between all different coats, like between on coat of clear and another or from base to clear?? All your guys help you be greatly appreciated!! Even if its reallly long, thats great!! Thanks

rich5

You shouls have all equpt. ready. Paint booth would help. Water seperators for the paint gun ect... I no sum stuff not all. not sure about sand paper. ill get back to u on that one. sand it, not to the bear steal. the color of the paint can still show, primer under can show also, no lover, use a 240 grit scotch brite pad and go over entire car, ur paint will not adhear to clear coat so get every where. use it to scuf up unsanded paint. provided ur done sanding blow off entire car so there is NO DUST, very important. Tape off car to start painting. i dont no what kind of gun u have but it good to have a good gun. use like 80 to 100 psi. directly before painting use tack pad which is a pad with a type of glue/resin to get all debris/ dust off. No impurities. Use PPG paint because its the best, alittle expensive but its good. for beginers paint scrap mettal to practice.
primer use 2-3 coats with 10 minutes inbetween depending on how well it looks. if it looks thin put another coat on. i wouldnt push 3. stay a good 6 to 12 inches away when spraying. you dont want the paint to run. dont sand inbetween. When done primer i like to wait 24 hours before painting with color. and within that time No water can touch it.

rich5

Painting with color....
Use distance 6 to 12 inches when spraying. It makes life alot easier if u dont have the paint run. No less than 2 coats no more than 3. 10 to fifteen minutes inbetween. no sanding until after clear. you will no when its time to spray another coat when the paint dosent feal tacky/ wont leave finger imprint. Use thinner to clean out gun after switching material. SRY before painting spray the floor with water to keep the dust down,but not to much. clear coat... Time inbetween coats is like 15 to 20 minutes. the stuf is nasty so wear body suit masks hat.....2 to 3 caots applied. let dry overnight. there is mostlikley going to be f..ups so thats when u wet sand. use vey hi grit at places were u ran the paint. dont sand below clear very important. after wetsanding buff othe entire area. buffing can burn the paint so be carefulllll.then ur finished.... i dont no every thing but ill ask my pops. this is what ive seen through the years. i would sugest it get anouther persons imput on this. for stuff i missed. any other stuff i missed just ask. ill get back to u on the sand paper grit.

rich5

this is no easy task. its an art, goodluck

augie1209

Alright thanks alot that helps already, yeah the specific grits would be good cuz i know the littlest mess up can cost lots of money lol.. so you wouldn't recommend sanding after any coats except clears? And do i sand afterr every coat of clear of just after very last one? And the thinner is just for cleaning out gun right? what is the point of reducers? I think i'm going to paint with a "burple" kinda like a metallic indigo blue with metal flake clear, does ppg have this kinda paint? thanks alot this helps!!

radical82

Might want to do some practicing with some cheap single stage paint before you go laying out mega bucks for BC/CC with pearls and flakes!!!!! IMO, the most important part of a good paint job is the prep work. Buying the best materials for a first timer only guarantees that your boo-boo's will be very expensive boo-boo's....

Another consideration, the equipment. Takes a good compressor to keep a DA running, and BC/CC with flakes and pearls is not going to shoot good out of a cheap gun regardless of what anyone tells you!!!!!

Ace Hardware sells a rust preventitive paint for about $8.00 a quart, mix it 1:1 with lacquer thinner and practice, practice, practice getting the mechanics of manuevering a paint gun right!!!! Until you have the technique right, no paint you choose, regardless of price, is going to lay down smooth.
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And don't forget about respirators and dust masks!!! These paints are toxics and some contain known carcinogens and should not be used without full understanding and compliance of all the safety precautions noted on the data sheets for the product....


BTW, I use a lot of PPG and some HOK materials. The materials for the primer, sealer, paint, and clear coat are going to run upwards of $1,000.00!!!! Any red or deriviative of red is the most expensive paint to buy.....

augie1209

I know it sounds crazy, but i really want to do Kandy Burple Basecoat from house of Kolor. I'm going to practice alot and watch a few videos about flake and kandy before i do it, i know it takes a pro to get it just right but if there is a few mistakes ill live. Will 1 gallon of each (primer, base, and clear) be suffiecient? I'm not painting any of the inside or engine bay, just outside. Let me know thanks

radical82

Sure, gallon of each is fine...plus the appropriate reducers, activators, catalyst, flakes, pearls, etc..... Using HOK, you will also need a mid coat and some other additives.... Better check their website and see all the goodies you'll need.....

You're going to do all this work, spend all the money, and not do the jams or the inside of the hood?????

DAREDEVIL 1

gallon of clear is to much !!!!!!

Also,,where do u live ?? If your close i can help u !!!!!

trocustoms

iTrader: (1)

The best response so far.

DAREDEVIL 1

i agree, but a reg paint job is only a task,,,just mixing the paint right and getting the coats on correct is an art.

Realy, nobody should try this on a car if never done before.
Start with a fuel tank from a bike or so ..to get the feel for BC/CC !

Single stage is an hole other story.

augie1209

I live in Indiana so prolly to far away lol... But yea so what all do you guys recommend, could someone put a kit/package together for me from HOK or something, not sure exactly what all reducers and stuff to get

DAREDEVIL 1

If u go to an automotive paint shop,,or body shop...they will actually sell u a kit.
But i would do all the body work u can,spray the primer and 320 it to a smoth finish and then bring it to a bodyshop to have painted.....its the best way u can not screw up alot !!!!!!

Ron U.S.M.C.

This may not answer your questions but it will give you some idea of what the process looks like.=
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...nt-photos.html

Materials cost $1,500.00 including all new weatherstripping and miscellaneous parts and pieces .Then there's what I payed my friend ( pro.painter) to do the job. another $1,500.00 = $3,000.00 Base/Clear coat with the best PPG has to offer including PPG red pearl additive. The car was a salvage on its way to the junk yard. I took a chance and payed 500.00 for it. Needed a fuel pump ,water pump , power steering unit ,new steering column/ VATS module , some of the interior ,etc.( I did not know all that when I bought it.All I new was I wanted to save it) . Runs like a champ now.Five years of hard but fulfilling work so far.