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Im getting the suburban painted at the votech cause I need a really decent paint job on the work truck, but I was thinkin about hitting the ol TA with a bunch of rattle cans, anyone have pictures of rattlecan, spraybom,spray can, paintjobs, whatever you choose to call it?
Again with the trans am, Going to stick with the Pitch black. i was thinkin high gloss. and maybe a bunch of cans of clear as well.
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Im getting the suburban painted at the votech cause I need a really decent paint job on the work truck, but I was thinkin about hitting the ol TA with a bunch of rattle cans, anyone have pictures of rattlecan, spraybom,spray can, paintjobs, whatever you choose to call it?
Again with the trans am, Going to stick with the Pitch black. i was thinkin high gloss. and maybe a bunch of cans of clear as well.
You would be better off leaving it as it is instead of spraying it with rattle cans. You can pick up a complete kit of acrylic enamel, for under 70 bucks you could rent a compressor, get a cheap hvlp paint gun and it will look 1000X better and last longer. I got an hvlp from harbor freight for 16 bucks.
You would be better off leaving it as it is instead of spraying it with rattle cans. You can pick up a complete kit of acrylic enamel, for under 70 bucks you could rent a compressor, get a cheap hvlp paint gun and it will look 1000X better and last longer. I got an hvlp from harbor freight for 16 bucks.
Cheap. I've been looking at the summit paint lately, which is still a few bucks more than the link you provided.
That stuff looks like it mixes 4:1 with reducer, or 8:2:1 with a reducer and hardener. Not too bad.
I'd probably remove the top coat with some 220, and hit the whole car with a 2k sealer, then hit it with the single stage. Just me though.
My car had soo much freaking HIDDEN rot, I ended up replacing a ton of sheetmetal, use a 1/2 quart of filler, and take the paint down to metal that I'm using epoxy, then color, then clear.
Cheap. I've been looking at the summit paint lately, which is still a few bucks more than the link you provided.
That stuff looks like it mixes 4:1 with reducer, or 8:2:1 with a reducer and hardener. Not too bad.
I'd probably remove the top coat with some 220, and hit the whole car with a 2k sealer, then hit it with the single stage. Just me though.
My car had soo much freaking HIDDEN rot, I ended up replacing a ton of sheetmetal, use a 1/2 quart of filler, and take the paint down to metal that I'm using epoxy, then color, then clear.
-- Joe
I just saw this now and io didnt see it when i made my last post so my apologies
And As for the moderator, I wasnt looking for a smart remark I wasnt kidding. No disrespect to you, so in return I dont expect any from you either.
I'm not trying to bust your chops, but I assure you your chops will get busted and this thread hit over 100 posts if you actually paint your car with rattle cans and post pics.
I did kind of think you were kidding, by the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 85T/A
Anyone have pictures to show me a good idea of the difference in results from a SS to a BC/CC job?
We did my vette with BC/CC but I don't like the way it came out. I'm doing the camaro with a single stage paint, but I'm clearing it.
So why use single stage if I clear it anyway?
Cheaper. If I get sick of the car in 2 years the next owner won't give me any more money for the body if it's SS or BC/CC..
One thing I would recommend you stay away from, and that is 'one part' aka, 'ready to spray' paint. There is no real flash time for not catalyzed paint, which means dust and stuff will find its way in the paint no matter what. You'll probably need to reduce such things anyway to get it to work with your gun, and you risk drips sags and runs.
The 4:1 stuff from summit or the link he posted should work well with an 'average' hvlp gun with a 1.4mm tip. Think $20-30 harbor freight gun.
I figure around $300 to your door for primer, color, and clear. Much less if you skip the clear.
people consider it for multiple reasons, people like me, for instance,who have been out of work for few months and are just getting back on our feet with a minimum wage job or less like pizza delivery guys and waiters/ress we dont make alot of money so to just paint the whole car one color really cheap seems really appealing. My trans am, the @$$ end is gorgeous but the front end is a flat black, cant match the @$$ paint job is too old and its not the original paint. so making all one color. I liek the idea of it. dont have the money to pay somoen to do it, thats why my work truck is going to the votech once I get a little money saved up so I can start my horseshoing buisness.
And Anesthes. I truly appreciate the clear up on the mix up. But on the upsiode, I already have painters guns and air compressors. so all I need is the paint and sandpaper/materials right?
once again Pictures would be much appreciated from anyone.
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And Anesthes. I truly appreciate the clear up on the mix up. But on the upsiode, I already have painters guns and air compressors. so all I need is the paint and sandpaper/materials right?
there u go see u don't really have to even consider a rattle can job.
yes u only need sand paper maskin paper and tape oooo and time lol like some one suggested use single stage, thats an inexpensive way to go. u can even go to paint supplies store and ask for miss matches, they usually sell them for less than half the price.
people consider it for multiple reasons, people like me, for instance,who have been out of work for few months and are just getting back on our feet with a minimum wage job or less like pizza delivery guys and waiters/ress we dont make alot of money so to just paint the whole car one color really cheap seems really appealing. My trans am, the @$$ end is gorgeous but the front end is a flat black, cant match the @$$ paint job is too old and its not the original paint. so making all one color. I liek the idea of it. dont have the money to pay somoen to do it, thats why
I think if you work the numbers out, the # of cans required to cover the same sq. foot of area, it becomes more expensive. To do a thirdgen, you want about 5 quarts sprayable. I think if you figure out it with spray cans it comes to about twice as much. Because of the fan pattern on the cans, and how often you have to change them out you end up with bad coverage and overlap. "tiger stripes" come to mind.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 85T/A
my work truck is going to the votech once I get a little money saved up so I can start my horseshoing buisness.
I pay $175 per horse to get shoes done ever 6-8 weeks. That is a flat rate for a trim, and reset or new shoes. Usually every other shoeing is a reset.
I imagine it's quite a step up from delivering pizzas.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 85T/A
And Anesthes. I truly appreciate the clear up on the mix up. But on the upsiode, I already have painters guns and air compressors. so all I need is the paint and sandpaper/materials right?
If the car is straight, and the color your painting is similar you could just scuff it down. 320 is about as coarse as you can go with just painting over. Figure 2-3 medium coats should fill in 320 scratch marks. A box of $30 worth of 320 paper (100 discs) and a DA should get the entire car cut down in a weekend. Clean it off with some body wash, then shoot it with some cheap single stage paint.
If the body isn't straight, i.e, dings that need head sanding and filling, or huge paint chips that need to be feathered out. For that stuff I'd go with a 2k high build and block sand but. It's all dependant on what the car is. I've always put $6,000 motors in $500 cars, so I'm not putting a $5k paint job on one. Ya know what I mean?
here you go the grey is rattlecan, the stripes are lacquer out of a gun. I had my reasons for using rattlecan, but if I had to do it over again I would have just gotten a gallon of TCP lacquer and painted it right. If you don't have access to an air compressor or a spray gun, it IS possible to get good results with rattlecans, but you'll still have to colorsand with 800, and buff, preferably with a wool pad
one more thing... If you can, avoid metallic paint... it makes the job 100x easier
if you decide to do it, I can can you more tips
here a before pic, so you can see how much better it is
another, after I did the grill, fog lights and wheels
Check out the link in my sig. It's cheaper and better than rattle can.
__________________ 1988 Drop Top RS... LT-1/700R4/3.23 1LE brakes all around behind polished Y2K's, 36/24mm sway bars, wonder bar, koni yellows, and a few other "goodies"
....still sporting trailer park 5 color paint for now. 88 RS vert build thread
This pic the car is rather dirty, but it's all rattle canned with rattlecan clear sanded with 1500 and buffed with rubbing compound and wool bonnet. Worth the work if you ask me. I ended up doing like 1 or two panels at a time as I could get the paint.
you can check out the link in my sig for a rattle can paint job. Satin black. I'll be honest though, I dont think I'll ever do it again. I did it cause my car was primer and I was sick of looking at it, and it's just a temporary job. My car sits in the garage, it doesnt get driven in adverse weather, so I wasnt worried about protection. But man I washed the car twice, and i feel like half the paint is gone already. It sucks.
Well, thank you.. I actually wasn't as happy with it. A little more reducer in the clear might have kept the orange peel out. Wet sanding helped, but still.
Well, thank you.. I actually wasn't as happy with it. A little more reducer in the clear might have kept the orange peel out. Wet sanding helped, but still.
-- Joe
Also increasing air pressure helps reduce Orange peel by aloooot
kirker aka summit paint. "viper red." 5-6 yrs old. subject to north carolina weather. sat uncovered while i was in iraq. front bumper is autozone spraycan from being back into.
...funny thing is, it looks like a million dollars when it rains.
...at least the wheels still look nice!
__________________ 1987 Chevrolet Camaro Sport Coupe-assorted shades of rust 13.75@102.2mph on 2.1 60'
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kirker aka summit paint. "viper red." 5-6 yrs old. subject to north carolina weather. sat uncovered while i was in iraq. front bumper is autozone spraycan from being back into.
...funny thing is, it looks like a million dollars when it rains.
Very nice. Very nice Iroc. I always liked the Yella ones. The more I look at these pictures in combination with the SS paint the was stated at the begining of this post. I believe Im going with the SS paint. I appreciate all the pictures guys, but by all means keep em coming. Im sure this will be a useful thread to keep up.
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I have a friend who just used maaco to paint his car. It looks great from a few feet away, but when you get closer, it is orange peel hell. I wouldn't have that job on my car, not in a million years
so here is mine, light blue metalic rattle can with a clear metalic over it, gives it a blue pearl look. Not perfect but people are thinking I'm lying when I tell them. This is after the first buff so it's got more to go. this is also the first time I've painted a car so be gentle!
Another method thats a little easier and cheap is usind rustolium outdoor pint cans. Prep and sand as required apply a layer of rustolium primer with sponge rollers, sand agian and then apply rustolium car color as needed agian with sponge rollers. {Not regular rollers}. lightly sand fine grit. Then spray clear with can. Wet sand and buff. My dad informed me of this trick 30+ yrs exp. pro autobody&paint. Save your finger and wrist. No spray drips/splatter and more even coat. Did it on my upper half of car, that had rust and peeling. Looks good, suprised a few with outcome that knew how i did it. goodluck..
kirker aka summit paint. "viper red." 5-6 yrs old. subject to north carolina weather. sat uncovered while i was in iraq. front bumper is autozone spraycan from being back into.
...funny thing is, it looks like a million dollars when it rains.
...at least the wheels still look nice!
I guess that's pretty common with single stage enamel and colors like red. I wonder if shooting a couple coats of clear over it would have helped..
I had to paint my spoiler and it came out really nice with a rattlecan. word of advice though, watch out for brite touch. it takes a lot longer than usual to cure.
and to the comment about air pressure. too high and you get dry spray.
nope there's no side effects, you are not gonna increase by a lot of course, otherwise the spray pattern will not be even. i usually shoot it 45-55 psi. i never use any reducers on any of the clears i've sprayed and i gotta say they turn out really good with minimum orange peel. its almost like shooting DuPont Imron single stage, reduce it too much and not enough air pressure, u WILL get either Orange peel or runs everywhere.
***Now that i mentioned it i 4got 85T/A u can also use DuPont Imron HG (High Gloss) it works good, not too expensive and since its a urethane based single stage it last a loot longer than other single stage paints and it shines like if you cleared over it.
i know is not not 3rd gen but just to show what u can expect single stage DuPont Imron HG
Last edited by juanillox8; 09-06-2010 at 02:15 AM.
Reason: pics added
I guess that's pretty common with single stage enamel and colors like red. I wonder if shooting a couple coats of clear over it would have helped..
-- Joe
well the car had some orange peel and we never finished cutting and buffing.
it took it upon myself to do some wetsanding later on down the road, but never really put too much elbow grease in to it.
as bad as it looks in the pics, i think the paint could be saved. it really does look like a BC/CC and has a great reflection when it has a layer of water on it after it rains. however the car has too much rust, and wouldn't be worth the effort.
Another method thats a little easier and cheap is usind rustolium outdoor pint cans. Prep and sand as required apply a layer of rustolium primer with sponge rollers, sand agian and then apply rustolium car color as needed agian with sponge rollers. {Not regular rollers}. lightly sand fine grit. Then spray clear with can. Wet sand and buff. My dad informed me of this trick 30+ yrs exp. pro autobody&paint. Save your finger and wrist. No spray drips/splatter and more even coat. Did it on my upper half of car, that had rust and peeling. Looks good, suprised a few with outcome that knew how i did it. goodluck..
nope there's no side effects, you are not gonna increase by a lot of course, otherwise the spray pattern will not be even. i usually shoot it 45-55 psi. i never use any reducers on any of the clears i've sprayed and i gotta say they turn out really good with minimum orange peel. its almost like shooting DuPont Imron single stage, reduce it too much and not enough air pressure, u WILL get either Orange peel or runs everywhere.
***Now that i mentioned it i 4got 85T/A u can also use DuPont Imron HG (High Gloss) it works good, not too expensive and since its a urethane based single stage it last a loot longer than other single stage paints and it shines like if you cleared over it.
i know is not not 3rd gen but just to show what u can expect single stage DuPont Imron HG
that looks amazing!
It's been years since I had a imron painted car, so let me ask you, how often does it need maintaining? Is it tough like BC/CC? or does it dull up like lacquer?
that really doesnt look bad at all. i like the color alot.
It's Duplicolor T-155 spray paint over Duplicolor paint shop primer. Once the spray paint cured (I waited about 2 days) I then used my compressor and gun to shoot Paint shop clear metallic and then clear over that. Once that cured I sanded with 1500 then 2000 wet, then buffed with a wool pad and meguires scratch remover polish. Those pics are right after the 1st buff, it still needs the sealer and polish with the foam pad.
The only real reason I tried this is I did not see anyone else try and so I thought I'd see what I could do by playing around.
I agree I think I would shoot it all from a gun again, but I really do like this color. This took me anout 2 months of work (20hrs per week) to get all this done from start to finish (body work and paint).
I actually have lots of pics on my build, I been waiting to do a post showing what I've done to my bird from start to finish, it taken about 14 months in total.
The only real reason I tried this is I did not see anyone else try and so I thought I'd see what I could do by playing around.
I agree I think I would shoot it all from a gun again, but I really do like this color. This took me anout 2 months of work (20hrs per week) to get all this done from start to finish (body work and paint).
I actually have lots of pics on my build, I been waiting to do a post showing what I've done to my bird from start to finish, it taken about 14 months in total.
keep an eye out!
I don't like the color, but I don't have to. The job came out quite good. Good job! Lot of work though. It's nice to be able to show off something you put a lot of time into.
Oddly enough, I bought a door yesterday for my car that is really close to that color. Something similar was a factory color in the 70s.
I think if it was a little deeper, and maybe a satin I'd like it a lot. You know, the suede look. That's the cool thing about paint. There is something for everybody.
there are so many different options here. Your absolutely right Anes. YOu like Satin I like Pitch black. He obviously likes his blue. when i first started this thread. I though pretty much there was rattle can SS and BC CC. and each of them had a distinctive look. This thread has changed my opinion completely over.
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