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Originally posted by vsixtoy Great news for GTA owners-
I ran down to Dons shop and measured the GTA rims with my setup and they will fit the GW hubs WITHOUT and machine work necessary. The IROC rims need to be machined larger in the center opening.
So again the GTA rims will fit this entire setup, even with the aluminum hubs.
Dean, thanks again for trying them with the GTA wheel! Would you be able to replicate a set of these? You can contact me by PM or email if you want.
Originally posted by Dr G Dean, thanks again for trying them with the GTA wheel! Would you be able to replicate a set of these? You can contact me by PM or email if you want.
Give me just a little more time to get things together and fit my wheels onto them, Then I will list everything on another thread that will detail the exact part #'s, the bracket specs and all the costs of every little detail to build this setup yourself. I promised above that I would do this when finished.
This way, If someone wants to duplicate what I've done you can get every part on order immediately and have all custom order stuff going at once. It's taken me so long because I had to get this and measure it before I could then figure that and measure it,etc, etc... Its been about 4 months now buying parts, and sometime returning this and order other parts to see what worked best- that parts finished now and I have a completely bolted together working model. I have to now get brake lines and some custom bolts drilled for wire-ties to mount the calipers and brackets for safety. (again, another example of something simple, however until I had the finished custom bracket fitted and working, I did not know what length bolts I needed.)
edit: I left my digital camera sitting at one of my job sites right now. I am shooting progression pics of a kitchen remodel in a 8+ million dollar home. I 'll need to bring that home and post some pics of the brackets.
With regards to the wheel offset, I ended up using a thinner custom front wheel adapter to run my 4th gen wheels with my C5/Wilwood kit. With the 2" spacers I ended up with about an additional .5" on each side of track width. I made up for this with a set of 1.5" front hub-centric wheel adapters. Everything fits great now. So if people are already looking into running wheels from something else they can just adjust the adapter to make up for the slip on rotor setups.
The hub could also be machined to take into account the difference with the slip on rotor hat thickness... A while back I bought some used custom AL hubs for the front of my car but one ended up being tweaked. They were made to use a two-piece slip on rotor with a 1LE caliper and had the thickness of the hat (1/4") taken into account so the overall mounting surface of the wheel was the same as a standard 1LE rotor/hub unit.
My point is that if somebody is going the all custom route they could have the hub made to move the rotor in enough to make the wheel placement stay in the standard location. Of course.... this can make building a custom bracket for the caliper mounting quite a bit more difficult.
Anywho, lookin good Dean! And thanks for sharing the information freely! I would definately be interested in following your setup if I hadn't already built mine.
Also, for those looking at 2 piece rotors for the Spohn setup... I am pretty sure the rotor is a C5 spec rotor. In which case all you have to do is find a manufacturer that makes a 2 piece rotor for a C5 and you are dialed in. I used a C5 rotor with mine and I checked out the Wilwood ones they make for stock replacement C5 rotors and they are CRAZY expensive. See my above post... But they are available.
EMachineShop brackets Finished. I also had them clear CeramicCoated to reduce heat transfer and any possible expansion of the .700" thick aluminum. Keep in mind that the Wilwood Radial mount that this bolts to is also .700" thick aluminum, So I don't want to hear how dangerous aluminum is- Wilwood is using it so I matched their specs in thickness.
Here's top and backside pics of them fitted- Everything lines up perfectly centered. Now time to get custom drilled wire-tie bolts to keep everything on under the heat. Also I need to get the Braided lines custom made.
Originally posted by vsixtoy ... Then I will list everything on another thread that will detail the exact part #'s, the bracket specs and all the costs of every little detail to build this setup yourself. I promised above that I would do this when finished.....
Dean:- Again many thanks for all your informative work with this and your other projects! It's great to see a thirdgen member who seems to go out of his way to help and educate others. I look forwards to seeing the list etc.
Here's the bottom line on offset comparisons- (They maybe slightly confusing- Hope not.)
What I have now is the standard iron Dleco-Morraine calipers with 10.5" rotors. Those rotors have a 3" offset from the backingplate mount to the mounting face. I have tofurther run a 5/16" spacer on the rotor hub face in order to have my "rear" Iroc offset rim fit ontothe front. My scrub radius is about 3/4" shallow on both sides of the car from a 1LE setup this way, however I kept it with a 1/2" on instead totry and push it out slightly more. (Still 7/16" shallow, but I can rotate fronts to rears with 4 "rear" rims)
My new setup is 3.150" offset to mount face (+.150 outward from stock, yet still shallower than 1LE).
Mounting "front" IROC's with the 16mm greater offset would require a 3/16" spacer for adequate clearance between the wheel and caliper (this allows enough tolerances for flex of the spindle and wheel)
My "rears" on this front setup will require a 13/16" spacer be made to clear these calipers as I intend on keeping all "rears" on the car. This will offset me a combined total of .4625" more outward than I currently have. Which is about exactly the same as the 1LE rotors with IROC "fronts".
Time for me to check on options for a 13/16" spacer and wheel studs. I will probably just have them made on EmachineShop, doubt if I can find a 13/16" exact. (ps 16mm offset = .630" "fronts" with a 3/16" or .1875" spacer- would total - .8175. 13/16"= .8125 Close enough for gov work.)
Currently my outer most section of the front tire (Section width- See photo. Measured at red mark section, not actual tread width which is narrower) is 1 1/8" inboard vertically to the fender.
The new offset will make that tucked only .6625" inside the fender vertically(just shy of 11/16").
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Pic showing 16" IROC "rear" with two 3/8" spacers behind it for caliper clearance. Time to order the wheel spacers because I'm not running "fronts". I will have the spacers machined to hub centric tolerances for added safety.
Originally posted by Justins86bird Ditto. Minis are cool
'67 Cooper S- right hand drive. You should see me get into it. Matter of fact, you should see my wife and I both sitting in it. I'm 6'4 240, and shes 5'11. It hilarious because of our height. I need the rag top to even climb into the car and stick my upper body upright before I sit back into the seat.
I ordered the custom hubcentric wheel spacers for the brake project. I'll might be a little time again playing the waiting game.
Edit- I looked at the picture again that I posted just above. It jsut struck me funny- The damn wilwwod rotor is larger than the wheel on the Mini. Its as big as half the tire sidewall.
I have some confirmed offset figures for scrub radius between the different brake setups. All figures are measured with a factory 16" "Fronts" Iroc rim with the standard offset of 16mm or .630".
Measured from the spindle mount hole for the 1LE bracket going outward.
----------------------------
Standard Non-1LE front -small bearings(10.5" rotor)
3.630"
1LE brake setup- large bearings (12" rotor)
*THIS IS THE FACTORY STANDARD FOR 245/50-16 tires on an 8"wide rim*
3.948" [+.318 offset, or just over 5/16"]
My setup-large bearings (12.9" rotor) with a 3/16" wheel spacer for rim to caliper clearence
3.967" [+ .337" offset, or just over 5/16"}
13" C4 HD's on 1LE hub-large bearings(13" rotor)
4.248" [+.618" offset, or just shy of 5/8"]
13" C4 HD's on std hub-small bearings(13"rotor)
3.930" [+.300" offset, or just shy of 5/16"]
C5 setup on stand or 1LE hubs (12.75" rotor)
No clue?If anyone has a "+ or - "offset from any of the combo's above- please contribute.
Originally posted by vsixtoy I ordered the custom hubcentric wheel spacers for the brake project. It might be a little time again playing the waiting game.
Here's what they'll look like. I'm also having them finished in a hard anodized black to match the Wilwood hats and calipers. These spacers will allow me to "safely" run my four "rear" factory rims so I can rotate tires without dismounting them from the rims.
Originally posted by ebmiller88 I think the problem he had was trying to install an aftermarket kit such as the Baers and run really large wheels and tires at the same time, and therefore he has rubbing issues. Any kit of this design (hub/rotor) whether it be Baer, C5, C4, LS1, or Spohn's 13" kit will end up pushing the front wheels out and COULD cause interference with the front wheels/tires and the fenders, not a hard concept to understand really. This is why you have to make sure you have the right wheel dimentions before you run one of these kits. I really think he just has too much wheel to tuck under the fender lip.
Ed
Hi Folks,
What I forgot to mention with my install of the Baers was that I killed 2 birds with one stone. As many may know, the front rims are ofset differently than the rears. the fronts stick out more. Since my car is agressively lowered, I had to initiate negative camber so that the front tires would clear the fenders (even with removing the plastic liner and taking a heat gun to the inner fenders and smoothing it out and rolling the lip.
We knew that I may face a big issue when I installed the new brakes. After the brake install, the front rims literally lined up to the outside of the fender. I would be able to drive it, but it would not be fun. Before the install of the brakes, I had tried fitting the rears to the front, but at that time, the rears would not fit in the front because the bearing cap would poke out of the center of the wheel.
Thus, we again tried to fit the rears to the front after the break job, and to our amazment, they fit perfectly. The way the car sits now is the best it has ever been. The rear rims in the front allow for so much room! And the front rims on the rear give the car a more agressive look. I am so happy for the outcome. I really thought I had to get some new rims!
Thus, if anyone is having issues, try mounting the rear rims to the front and vice versa!
I've been thinking of running rears up front also...due to the different offsets of the front and rear wheels, I've figured the rears will fit up front with these style kits perfectly.
