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I got my ebrakes to work.
I used a set of Tru-Torque cables, C94597, $18.88 each.
The sheath is barely long enough and the inner cable is 1'2" too long so I used skinny u-clips to take up the slack.
Cables need to run under the sway bar so that they will reach.
Had to dremel out the inside of the fitting that goes over the hook on the caliper, took a few minutes.
Brakes work great.
Originally posted by DuronClocker What'd you have to do with the cables? I may fix my parking brakes this weekend.
On the equalizer where the 2 cables attach, the cable ends were about 1/4" too long, so I used small screw clips, like the ones that hold the upper radiator support, or the clips that hold the airdam on. I used ones that were small enough to fit snug over the cable.
Well after a month and a half, i finally had the time and weather to do it. the brake cables are on and work without ANY modification to the equalizer , and without any extra brackets. What I had to do was to open up the one end that connects to the stock LS1 Hooks though. I will try to take some photos when i get some time. The Bendex cables worked without ANY problems though.. even had heat sheilding on them for the exhaust!
-steve
Are the Raybestos BC94597 cables the same as the Bendix ones you're using? Those are 1460mm long vs. the 1434mm long of the other cables. I don't see a Bendix listing on AAP's site.
The cables i ordered from Advance were the Bendex c1647's I ordered 2 of them. They cost me around 44.00 total plus shipping.
* NOTE* These cables are a cross reference from the longer set that are listed above in this post. Advance does not show them on the web site, you have to physically go into the store and have them call their home office and say i need to order 2 of the bendix part number c1647 cables. It takes 7-10 days from the day you pay to get these cables delivered to the store. Thats how i had to do it. I was able to keep track of them because i work there.
If you have issues getting this done, let me know and Ill get all the information that I used together for you all. Im still trying to get time to get under the car with the camera to get the e-brake photos.
-steve
anyone do this swap that already had a aftermarket torque arm installed? i installed a jegster torque arm and i fear that the plate that bolts into the tunnel (with 15 bolts) is covering all of my e brake connections i need.. i have the rear out... did it yesterday it was cake...now ill look today...im prayin
I just put them on my 91 RS. They seem to be a little short. I could barely get them on. I cant find anywhere on my car a way to adjust the cable. I have seem pics of people that have a nut & threaded rod attached to the equalizer. My car doesnt have this. How do I adjust them?
I still have no E-Brake... Anyone?
I tried taking the springs from the stock LS1 cables and putting them on the Raybestos cables. Now the self adjusting mechanism in the E-Brake handle wont even engage the brake. I still want to get these cables to work. But if I have to, I am willing to buy another set of cables. I just want to make sure they will fit this time... I already blew $50 on the Raybestos.
you may want to go to advance auto and order the cables in my last post. you will have to have them call their home office, but its what I did, and they worked for me. I too dont ahve an adjuster under the car, so although mine works, it doesnt work well. I am taking the car to my local chevy dealer soon, hopefully, to get an alignment, and i figured that I'd ask them to adjust the parking brake too..
Just ordered the Bendex cables. I put off getting the E-Brake to work because I had other things I needed to do, but I am almost done with my T5 swap... So I really need to get these working now! Hopefully the Bendex cables will be a little longer and work.
Ok just tryin to get a summery/recap of this post so everyone doesnt have to waste there time reading everything....
The Bendex P/N# C1621 are the ones to get.. they have the proper fittings and are the correct length. They work with LS1 rear ends..The only modifiing that is needed is where the cables attach to the caliper.
If someone could clearify with pictures! how and where to modify them and how it looks all together thanx
Okay I have the LS-1 brake rear-end on the car and the brakes work. Now the parking brake issue. Tonight I ordered the Bendix c1621 which at Advance Auto will not show up as available, the cable has been superseded with Tru-Torque# C94264
I called Bendix about C1647, that part has been discoutinued.
I'm ordering for an 88 IROC that has a equalizer where it held two cables with ball ends, has two cable rows in the tunnel and two retaining points unerneath where the sheath ends and the cable continue.
TYPE: 1992, camaroz28, 5.7. it will list all cables (drum and disk) some have pictures
NOTE: price are more online then at the store
HERE ARE SOME
Tru Torque C94264 I ORDERED
Rear; Rear Disc Brakes; 1434mm Long
1 Year Replacement Warranty
$18.28 THIS WAS $15.88 AT STORE-----Pic on Website
Tru Torque C94597
Rear; Rear Disc Brakes; 1460mm Long
1 Year Replacement Warranty
.
$18.88
Bendix C1621
Cable-Parking Brake: Rear-Left; 55 29/32"; 1st Design
1 Year Limited Warranty NOT AVAILABLE REPLACED BY c94264
$19.99
I've got the C94597 which are 1460mm long, not sure if that is total length or not, but the sheath was barely long enough and the cable was 1/2" too long. If you look at my post above with the drawing you will see what I did the remedy this.
When you get your cables, measeure the lenght of the sheath for us.
Well the intial use of Tru-Torque# C94264/Bendix1621 look okay. The cable sheath is a little tight have to run it under the axle tube. The cable end(forward) bearly clears the tunnel retaining mounts and the equalizer will have to backed almost to within 1/2 inch of those mounts.
However, I have ordered a set of C94597/Bendix 1647, which will be here tomorrow. I will take photos them of mounts, cables and fitment.
I actually trying to track down where these cables are assembled, to see if they could make one that are little longer.
I feel that C94264 can be used put it will be tight and I think the parking brake handle would only come up about 1-2 inches.
Pics coming soon
What if we put the backing plates on the opposite sides so that the caliper is on the back? That would allow the e-brake cable to go straight to the back instead of going back and then coming forward.
I just swapped in another rear end with an eaton posi and 4.10 gears and I need to install the ebrake stops on the axle housing today and I'll see if they can be swapped to the other sides.
Well I have to wait a couple more days for the cables to arrive, guy never ordered them
However, I have been able to modify a set of stock LS-1 brake cables to work. I will do a write up, once I test them. So as of now LS-1 stockers can be cut/trimmed and re-swaged to work. The sheaths are still a bit low. Will update soon.
The stocker mount in the Thirdgen stock points.
Notes: These cables are just put in bags by these companies they actually don't make them(China, Pakistan). This cable did not have the ball ends, very poorly put together. Not much shielding on it.
Fit: Sheath was tight had to run under the sway bar(still a bit tight) cable was 1/4 to long as others have noted. The short spring reduces parking brake handle travel. The better choice from the two.
Last edited by 88IROCARMY; 10-16-2005 at 08:57 PM.
Notes: This one had the proper ball ends, made with high quality brass ends. Retaining spier has rubber washer for a positive lock. However, it might be luck of the draw as to the quality of cable that you recieve. When I ordr this cable . The second one was tottaly different but in the c1621 bag. Clevis ends need to be opened for the hook.
Fit: The sheath fit was better, passenger side can go over the axle. Driver went under the axle between the sway bar. BUT the cable is a little short. You can get the ends on the equalizer after you extend it all the way to the ends of the tunner cable rows. I don't see much parking brake brake handle movement. The springs are a little short, compared to stock.
SPELL CHECK DISABLED
CAUTION THIS MOD IS DONE AT YOU OWN RISK:
Notes: AFter not being able to get satisfaction from the other cables I thought about using the stock LS-1 cables. They required trimming since they were to long(sheath), I cut of the stock swaged cylinder end. Then cut under the retainer, removing some of the rubber sheath. Using some heat and cutting I pulled-off the retainer. I then cut off 9 3/4 inch of steel cable sheath using a cut-of wheel. Took cable out of sheath and sprayed some lube in. Put cable back into sheath, replaced the foam guards and slipped the retaining end back on. Retainer was slighty opened up with a socket and hammer allowing it to slip back over the sheath. NOW what to do about a new cable end. The factory uses a swage machine, which are hard to find. I called a local garage door install company. They use aluminum cable stops. Which can be found at ACE hardware, online, etc. I was lucky they also had a bench mounted crimper for the aluminum stops. The stops are not round like a ball, put they seem to fit the equalizer just fine.
I UNDERSTAND that the aluminum cable stops are not as strong as swaged factory stuff. I have an automatic and this will help pass inspection.
FIT: Passender side fits great over the axle no problem. Drivers side could go over the axle put it was to close to the rear spring for me. I winstalled between axle and sway bar. The cable ends go about go about 1 inch past tunnel mounts. I moved the equalizer and all was well. When working with the equalizer removing the driveshaft is advised. No need to modify clevis ends. Stock clevis springs are longer allowing me full parking brake handle travel.
The equalizer(unhooked from cables) Pictured here with LS-1 stocker DIY cable ends. Make sure both cables are equal in length.
I moved the equalizer bolt til I could hook the cables.
Just letting everyone know. The Raybestos BC94264 and the Tru-Torque c94264 cables have the same length cable & sheath. So neither of them will work on my car... hahaha. I dont know what to get next. Mabey the Tru-Torque c94597.
Why is everyone trying to mod the rear half of the E-brake setup, instead of the front half? I ask because, it seems to me that modding the rear half means changes to 2 seperate cables, trying to make both equal lengths and such. Wouldn't modding the front half (cable from handle to tunnel) be easier, since you only have length issues with one cable instead of 2?
I have taken out my stock rear, and I'm in process of installing an LS1 rear. I haven't gotten there yet, so I don't know. The LS1 rear I have is completely in tact, with all cables - and I just figured I'd adjust what was necessary on the front parts, dealing with only 1 cable rather than 2.
Please tell this idiot (me) why I have to mess up the two cables on the rear, instead of messing up the one cable coming from the handle. (I say mess up 'cause I generally do - it's a curse in my family LOL)
I'm trying to picture what mods would be done to the parking brake handle cable(pull cable). You can't make it longer, just shorter. Most of the aftermaket cables were just to tight under the car. The problem is the tunnel mounts right before the equalizer, they don't leave much room. Please share with us your results.
88IROCARMY DIY cable note: Well I adjusted them and they engage and hold the car well.
1. Use a Dremel cut-off wheel to cut the cable, cutters will not do the trick they tend to crush the cables.
2. Cut the cables at the same location, within 1/8 of the swaged stock end.
3. Home Depot stocks the cable stops, they come in a package that has two stops and two fenerrel(Cable clamps), the cable stops have an 1/8 in opening.
4. Before you put on the cable stops, STOP check if you put all parts, retainers.
OK - spent the day under the car, and I see your point - not much room to work on the single cable end of things. Right now, I'm more interested in "go" than "show" - and I found a simple solution that I believe someone else tried here.
I inserted the LS1 cables into the same places that the originals inserted, and cut the cable ends off the 3rd gen rear, and simply clamped them to the 4th gen cables with simple 1/8" wire rope clamps from Home Depot - cost $4 per pair for stainless. All is done, and the E-brake works fine!
I did however cross the cables from the rear, inserting the pass side cable into the driver side hole in the block, and visa versa. This took up some slack that I was otherwise worried would get caught in something. I connected the LS1 cables into the clamps on each side of the tunnel where the original cables clipped. I'll use some metal zip-ties to help hold the cables away from the drive shaft, as crossing them makes them want to bend towards the shaft a tad close for me. From that point, the old cables clamp to the ends of the new ones (I used 2 clamps on each side), and the old portion of the cable runs up to top of the tunnel, through the tabs in the top of the tunnel, and connects to the factory 2-1 block. To adjust, I pulled on the 2-1 block, clamped a vise grip on the handle cable to hold the tension, and tightened my clamps connecting the old cable ends with the new. I waited until I was adjusted before I cut off the ends - I started with about 18" of the old cable ends. My handle will pull up to about 60* with one strong hand, and to almost 90* with two hands and a grunt. I yanked very hard on the handle multiple times, and these little clamps will definitely hold. And being stainless, I'll be able to adjust if necessary 10 years from now.
I'll try to gets pics tomorrow if anyone interested.
Sorry guys, my digital cam is toast - won't be able to get pics. What I used was simple cable connectors, they are stainless steel at Home Depot - they look like very small muffler clamps, they clamp both cable ends. Like I said earlier, I crossed the cables (L to R, R to L), and hooked the stock LS1 cables in the tunnel mounts, then attached the original cables to the 2into1 bracket and cut to length so I could attach to the LS1 cables with these clamps.
Re: Need Part number for Ebrake cable for LS1 rear brakes.
I've read this thread over and over again. Seems that there are a bunch of manufacturers but in the end there are two styles of brake cables for 91-92 disk car. I've gathered that one of these cables (not sure which one) work after enlarging the eyelet on the axle-side of the cable, but there is a LOT of conflicting information on all these threads.
Re: Need Part number for Ebrake cable for LS1 rear brakes.
ok i just read this fourm and now im lost. I just bought a rear out of a 01 ws6 with disc brakes, abs and no traction control. What cable would be the easist to put on and where can i find it. Also i have read the tech as well. Is this all i need to upgrade or do i need anything else
Re: Need Part number for Ebrake cable for LS1 rear brakes.
Read zephers post!
Quote:
I got my ebrakes to work.
I used a set of Tru-Torque cables, C94597, $18.88 each.
The sheath is barely long enough and the inner cable is 1/2" too long so I used skinny u-clips to take up the slack.
Cables need to run under the sway bar so that they will reach.
Had to dremel out the inside of the fitting that goes over the hook on the caliper, took a few minutes.
Brakes work great.
you could also try
Quote:
Well the intial use of Tru-Torque# C94264/Bendix1621 look okay. The cable sheath is a little tight have to run it under the axle tube. The cable end(forward) bearly clears the tunnel retaining mounts and the equalizer will have to backed almost to within 1/2 inch of those mounts.
I feel that C94264 can be used put it will be tight and I think the parking brake handle would only come up about 1-2 inches.
Pics coming soon
There you go...
IF you have 93-97 LT1 brakes 4th gen rear, which are the same as 91-92 disks as well as the PBR 89-90's, then you need the FIRST design brake cables for 91-92 cars. that will work.
Re: Need Part number for Ebrake cable for LS1 rear brakes.
those will work with the LS1 brakes you have. I'm NOT sure what ebrake mounting point/bracket you have. Is it adjustable or fixed?
Do you have the 'equalizer' mount, or basically the adjustable ebrake bracket thats on a long threaded rod that you can adjust inward towards to the handle by moving the bracket back and thread the nut tighter, or you can move it outward by backing off the nut to move the bracket out to shorten?
Re: Need Part number for Ebrake cable for LS1 rear brakes.
Is it adjustable or fixed? the adjustable ebrake bracket thats on a long threaded rod that you can adjust inward towards to the handle by moving the bracket back and thread the nut tighter, or you can move it outward by backing off the nut to move the bracket out to shorten?
I just read this again and im lost still. Just tell me the best cable to get thats the easiest to install. My uncle was a mech on NHRA top fuel drag cars so i know he casn do it, just telll me what cable would be the best!
I have no clue. I only have what i bought so far and as of my stock setup im not sure. so now i have the rear, brakes, rims, and when i buy the cable what else will i need. Ive read the tech over and over but it seems like each time i ask someone i need something different.
Re: Need Part number for Ebrake cable for LS1 rear brakes.
go check under your car, in the driveshaft tunnel area, to see what ebrake mount you have. If it looks to be adjustable thats good. If not i not sure which cable would work.
if its adjustable just get Tru-Torque cables, C94597
Re: Need Part number for Ebrake cable for LS1 rear brakes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 92 zzz28
I put on Raybestos parking brake cables today for my LS1 rear swap. I got them from Rockauto for $35 to my door for the pair. They are the first design and they fit like stock after opening up the brake end a bit. PN:BC94264 They were $14.05 each plus a few bucks for shipping...
I used the Raybestos BC94264 for my recent rear LS1 swap in my 1984 Z28. Just had to dremel the ends a bit and worked pretty good.
Tried one Raybestos and one Brake best and it didn't work out - too much difference in the brands. I like the Raybestos better because it has a plastic sheath where the cable hooks on the tunnel by the equalizer to protect the main cable.
Re: Need Part number for Ebrake cable for LS1 rear brakes.
IM bringing this back from the dead. Someone needed to! This thread is linked from a STICKY for 4th gen swap info. This thread shouldnt be linked for that, a new thread needs to be made with EXACT info on what to do for each type of car/rear whether it be lt1 or ls1 brakes. This thread is confusing with all types of suggestions of many many different brake cables/part numbers different eq modifications and such.
It seems the ebrake cables from the 90-92 disc brake cars work exactly the same with the lt1 cars, they have the same brake set ups,
Now for the ls1 rears it seems that if you use certain cables they need modification at one end and the other end is to long, either you use 4th gen eq bracket and weld it(or bolt it)in place or from what I read that orr89rocz says if you have an adjustable ebrake mount(apperently some cars have that?) then certain cables fit perfectly fine.
Does any one want to describe the easiest way to put the ebrake cables in place for a thirdgen with the non adjustable braket using an ls1 rear end because ID REALLY LIKE TO KNOW.
Now camaronewbie came up with something that got me thinking but no one else addressed it and I havnt seen pics so im not sure if I want to go that route yet either, you use the stock thirdgen cables from the 2 in 1 (EQ) mount then attach them with cable connectors to the stock ls1 cables(or buy new stock ls1 cables) and simply cross them by putting the left cable in the right slot on the EQ(2 in 1) and vice versa
Quote:
What I used was simple cable connectors, they are stainless steel at Home Depot - they look like very small muffler clamps, they clamp both cable ends. Like I said earlier, I crossed the cables (L to R, R to L), and hooked the stock LS1 cables in the tunnel mounts, then attached the original cables to the 2into1 bracket and cut to length so I could attach to the LS1 cables with these clamps.
