LS1 brake guys: check these bolts occasionally

[z28cdoyle]

There was a fair amount of discussion on the LS1 brake thread on the FAQ board about the bolts for the caliper carrier becoming loose. I never had any trouble with those bolts, but I found the 2 bolts securing the adapter brackets to the steering knuckle/spindle had loosened. I put those bolts in with a torque wrench so I know they were tight. I did not use any threadlocker, lock washers, etc so maybe that contributed. Since the LS1, C4, C5 and even 1LE swaps use a similar adapter bracket it may be a good idea to check those bolts occasionally if you have swapped to one of these setups on your car.

[cam-]

Some guys have been saftey wiring them in. I used Loctite green which is the strongest and torqued them down.

[KagA152]

i used red loctite on mine and grunked em down. since the car is now down for winter, ill have to check them when i get the chance, results to come

[JamesC]

Red for me.

JamesC

[BitchinCamaro]

Originally posted by 87roc_t56
I used Loctite green which is the strongest and torqued them down.

Just so you know... Green is for parts that are already assembled, it wicks into the threads. Red is the strongest. Blue is general purpose.

[cam-]

Green is mainly for press fit applications such as press on bearings, gears etc. or fine thread locker up to half inch. I consulted Loctite directly and described what I was doing and what would be the absolute best solution and green was their call not mine so I went with it.

[89 Iroc Z]

I really wouldn't not feel safe with anything but safety wire. Safety wire and pliers are about $30 and you know for sure they are never coming off.

[kretos]

Originally posted by 89 Iroc Z
I really wouldn't not feel safe with anything but safety wire. Safety wire and pliers are about $30 and you know for sure they are never coming off.

yep, if your gonna do it, do it right

[cam-]

I really wouldn't not feel safe with anything but safety wire. Safety wire and pliers are about $30 and you know for sure they are never coming off.

Can't argue with that.

[Justins86bird]

The GM 1LE brackets have little bumps in them that bite into the spindle when the bolts are torqued down. None of the others I'm aware of do. Perhaps there is a slight bracket movement under hard braking causing the bolts to loosen up. Or the bolt holes were tapped slightly off perpendicular to the spindle.

[vsixtoy]

Locktite is fine if you never plan on removing it. Safetywire is best.

Not 1LE, but you get the idea. One quick snip and they loosen and remove without damage or gunk to the threads.

[cam-]

When I did mine I actually ruined one spindle and had to start again. When I was drilling out the holes the spindle moved ever so slightly in the vise causing the hole to tweak a little oval. It was very slight and if it was for anything other than brakes I would have let it go but there is no room for error here so I trashed it and got another one.

vsixtoy the picture is a little fuzzy did you drill through the bolt head and put the wire through or just wrap the wire around it?

[Meatman]

I had a similar problem too. When we drilled one of the top holes the spindle was jumping around really bad. When we tapped it out we didnt have very good threads at all. We just drilled it out bigger, then heli coiled it to the right size.

I am going to use red loctite. The top bolts on mine are gettin a lock washer and the bottom ones I am going to nut on the back side. With the right torque and loctite you shouldnt have to worry. Also good grade 8 stuff is a must...........

[ebmiller88]

Good thing you caught it, Chuck. I also recommend the wiring for the best method of prevention.


Ed

[vsixtoy]

Originally posted by 87roc_t56
vsixtoy the picture is a little fuzzy did you drill through the bolt head and put the wire through or just wrap the wire around it?

Bolts are drills I used grade9 allenhead bolts and 1/16" carbide drillbits. takes about 30 seconds in a press.

If you look closely in the picture, I have counter wired the bolts. What I mean by this is one is drilled in the head, the other is drill on the bottom threads on the next bolt that is threaded through from the back side. The wire wraps clockwise on one, and counter clockwise on the other because they are ftted from different sides of the bracket. If wiring bolts mounted from the same side, the wire needs to wrap both bolts from the clockwise position so it one or both bolts sart to lossen counterclockwise the wire snugs and prevents movement.

[vsixtoy]

Here's a better diagram Thin arrows at bottom show direction the bolts would have to turn to loosen out of the bracket. You can see how the wire will snug them tight if they try to lossen.

[cam-]

vsixoy Excellent explanation and illustrations :hail:

Looks like I have yet another winter project

On a sadder note I put the cars away today to sleep for the winter. The only good thing I can say is after driving all winter in my 305 truck with 350k miles the first few rips in the cars come springtime is sooooo satisfying

[FSTFBDY]

Originally posted by 87roc_t56
vsixoy Excellent explanation and illustrations :hail:

Looks like I have yet another winter project

On a sadder note I put the cars away today to sleep for the winter. The only good thing I can say is after driving all winter in my 305 truck with 350k miles the first few rips in the cars come springtime is sooooo satisfying

heres a good link for ya.

http://www.tavia.com/01421_instructions.html

man Ive done my fare share of doing safty wire when I worked for cessna. EVERY nut and bolt on aircraft get safty wired.

[cam-]

Sweet. Thanks TPI383

[ebmiller88]

Here's a couple links to more wiring sites:

http://www.lrrsracing.com/RuleBook/lockwire.htm

http://www.whizwheels.com/Tips/safetywiring.html

Ed