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Ok im a little confused on all that i need here. I've heard that i need a new proportioning valve. Is that mandatory or can i get away with the stock one for the drums. Also do i need to get a new master cylinder? If i need these parts could you stir me in the right direction in what to look for?
__________________ coated Hooker 2055 headers, banks catback, open air element, TDS Wonderbar, Eibach Prokit, spohn ajustable pan hard bar, shohn lcas and relocation brakets, 9 bolt with 3.27s
I did the same swap a few years back. I think you really need to get the pv. If I remember correctly drums don't need much pressure compared to discs so you will not have your rear discs doing any work. On the master cylinder you do not need to swap them. If you got the "correct" one, all it does is increase pedal effort for a "sporty" feel. I put in that master cylinder and don't like it. In a few weeks when I work on my brakes I will put in a drum master cylinder.
If you can get the proportioning & parking brake cables from the Bw 9-bolt rear. That will save a lot of money and effort trying to locate repacements.
Originally posted by DJP87Z28 If you can get the proportioning & parking brake cables from the Bw 9-bolt rear. That will save a lot of money and effort trying to locate repacements.
What he said
But the PV doesn't HAVE to come from a car with a BW rear end. All that matters is the style of rear discs that the car comes with. You probably have the cast iron calipers (unless you were VERY fortunate and got one of the few with aluminum PBRs) so all you would have to do is look for a PV out of a car with the same rear calipers regardless of whether it has a 9 bolt or 10 bolt.
I did this years ago to my 87 TA but I got prop valve from same car a (87 iroc) easiest swap i ever did 2-3 hours tops-rearend, valve and bleed try to contact EB Miller on this board he should be able to get you right valve pt# or do a search on prop valves - i had to do this again when i did a 1LE swap . btw i sold my valve with the 9bolt sorry Goog Luck!
Originally posted by Sunny RS could someone post a pic on what the pv looks like. Coming from the back capipers i got hard lines into some kinda of valve thing. Is that the pv?
The factory valve? Look directly under your master cylinder. There will be two lines goin' in and three coming out. The front portion (away from the booster) is the proportioning valve.
Apparently these rears are falling out of the sky as I just did this exact swap myself. I picked mine up for $210 delivered. At the moment I dont have e-brake cables and my fronts lock on wet concrete (you dont wanna know what happens on blacktop) way before the rears do anything. The other problem is now my rear discs are bigger than my fronts! There seems to be a lot of debate on prop valves (combo...whatever). I still havent seen an answer on how to deal with a dash brake light when an aftermarket valve is installed since there is not a provision for the connection. Realize Im still "searching" this forum. I guess Ill unplug the connector and see what happens. I dont need the light for myself just the pesky state inspection. I have experienced a wheel cylinder popping while braking, so I would recognize a failure pretty quickly. And do these aftermarket valves have the same number of hydraulic connections as the factory ones? None of the catalogs I've seen give a description of these details. Kind of like "Adjustable proportioning valve..part#...crappy picture". And now to look for bigger front brakes!
The master cylinder for the disk brakes has a bigger piston bore.I did this same swap a few months ago so I replaced the pv and the master cylinder.If you can get a good pv from a doner car the you can go that route or a new one from the dealer(only place to buy a new one) is around $100.
