Brake BoardLooking to upgrade or get the most out of what you have stock? All brake discussions go here!
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What is availible out there for front and rear brakes upgrades from Wilwood. Their 4 Piston Calipers and 13" rotors atleast in the Front would be nice.
86TA & Tranny, Fronts are not an availiable kit- Something I fabbed together myself and was almost 3K but was 6piston calipers and custom made aluminum hubs- Its a one of a kind build.
Ed's kit however is a very very good bang for the buck and has every bit the power as mine, just without the exotic lightness, tapered piston smoothness, and heat disipation for all out track use and unsprung weight. Weight savings cost big bucks. Ed's kit is very reasonable and alot more sensible to the average racing & performance enthusiest. The rears are in fact an over the counter Wilwood kit designed for the 4th gens but is also bolt-on for 3rdgens. It just that they are very powerful and Wilwood does not offer any kit to match their power for the front of a 3rd gen so they are not listed for 3rd's. Thes are much more powerful than LS1's or 1LE's.
Hi Ed, Been back on here alot lately. I actually had a bad accident and was unfortunately an innocent victum of a motorcycle fatality 3 weeks ago. I faired ok with some hopefully short term neck injuries(time will tell). My truck is totaled though. I was completely off my side of the canyon rode missing the first asswipe racing headon in my lane around a blind curve and dived into the turnout on my side when the second asswipe chased me over the double yellow from his side over my lane and nailed me doing 80mph in the dirt of my side turnout lane- dead on impact. My truck was built- I am pissed because it is going to take major effort to replace it since it was extensively customize (but the fact it braked and handled well is what got me off the rode and saved my life from this guy coming straight through my widsheild. I am good though and life goes on- I am still pissed. Its surreal reading about yourself in the newspaper. http://www.nctimes.com/articles/2007..._503_15_07.txt
I think ive seen 2 that Ed does. One from his webpage with something to do with 13" Wilwoods which is kinda what i want more info on. And one meant for Stock GTA wheels which i got most the info on anyways. Good to know the 4thgen rear Wilwood kit will bolt up im guessing the same way you would swap to a LS1 rear brake kit. HPE you say they are REALLY strong. How do you keep them from locking up?
HPE you say they are REALLY strong. How do you keep them from locking up?
What I mean by that is if you only put either Ed's Wilwood front on but factory backs, or you put the Wilwood back only on and leave factory fronts they are way out of proportion even when matched to 1LE's. Thes fix piston calipers are strong in clamping force ans will dominate over weaker calipers and lock these tires only far sooner that all fours. Just make sure you get a married combination of fronts and rears.
When I first put just my rears on this car was frikin scary and would lock the rears with half pedal pressure and it felt like the fronts weren't even coming on yet. Keep in mind I had factory front specs, but even for fatory specs my original fronts were bulit and had very good racing pads- they still did not even come close to matching the Wilwood rears.
Technically speaking What I have on my car know is a matched racing set of Wilwoods specifically proportioned for a racing application on a heavier 4th gen camaro matched to run front and rear kits toghether. They are an engineered married front and rear combo. I fitted them on a lightweight 3rd gen.
Hey Brett here. first off glad you ok and sorry you had to be part of that. Your brake set up is really close to what I am building for my 82Z. Great jub. I might be in touch if I get into some problems. I am going to be using a 14" rotor and the six piston bront brakes. Your kits looks amazing!!!
I already have hubs, rotors, calipers and working on brackets and hats. Have any better pictures on how your caliper mounts up to the spindle?
Hi Brett, unfortunately my main computer got a virus two days ago and I lost alot of unsaved pictures from the last two years 2005-2006. However, There are alot of detailed pictures posted on this brake forum that I put up and documented the entire build process.
Try searching under Vsixtoy and RTFC or just try search through Wilwood search results on the brake forum only. The build talks about what radial mount brackets the 4thgen kit I bought came with and then what part # radial bracket I ended up swapping for and using for my build- If I recall, all specs and part #'s are listed on those posts (3 diffrent posts in all). That cardomain link shows the radius mount specs of the spindle bracket dimensions and the Wilwood webpage has the caliper mount radius specs for each caliper used with various dia rotors.
Anything else I can help with just ask, Ed can be very helpful also.
HPE, Ive looked into Ed's 13" Wilwood kit, and the 12.2 LS1 rear kit direct from Wilwood. I definately understand the sense of having mating front and rear brake design so one does not complete outwork the other, It would be plainly unsafe, How do you feel about the rest of the braking system though. Stock prop.valve, M/C, even the Brake booster in conjunction with these parts. Are they up to snuff. Even on a low mileage car(under 60K). Basically what becomes the next bottleneck?
Definately go to the 1LE combo valve. Thats manditory for better bias ratio. I had the original drum brake master cylinder and combo valve- I still have the master cylinder and my pedal modulation feels great without going to a larger bore (I have plenty of pedal feel and sweet spot. I like to have to press it a bit rather than a strong powerbooster feel and I do have that surprisingly without going larger) but I changed the combo valve when I originally went to factory rear disc and the 1LE felt far better even with the non-1LE brakes I had.
I do not need an adjustable prop valve with my combo it feels that balanced. I have tested this car and t has pulled an amazing 60-0 in 102 feet- it is incredible you have to experience it. And the 'bitchin' part of it is the whirl down noise it makes. I once come pulling down hard to a stop light right up next to a GT3 Porcshe and the nois alone under braking intimidated the sh*t out of him. This car is so fun to drive t doesn't need power to have fun and screw with people. The passenger in my car at the time of the Porcshe incident still talks about that a year later it was that cool to experience and hear. The cool whirl noise is fading though due to rotor wear and the slots dissapearing- I am going to the HD GT rotors next in a 13.06x1.25 slotted instead of the SRP ones. The slots are deeper.
Just stay ith the factory booster and MC, but chang the Combo valve tothe 1LE if you do not already have it- it should work balance like that.
Did only the 1LE cars have the 1LE prop.valve or did all 4 wheel disc cars with rear PBR's come with it. I also have easy access to a LS1 MC. Which if been reading these past posts properly have a larger pistons? How do you feel this would effect the brake feel?
Dean, is that 4-piston rear kit fixed mount? If so, how did you get around getting pad knockback without running c-clip eliminators.
Thanks again.
I was concerned about that before I bought the kit. I fitted this car with new Moser and then had new C-clips machined to very tight tolerances rather than using the ones I had. The C-clips fit with .025 tolerances on each side so there is a little freedom still but endplay slop is too a minimum and the c-clips are a tad thicker and stronger. I good friend who happens to be the race car owner of the NASCAR crew I am on(small time Irwindale stuff, but he is looking to make a run for Busch and take a few of us along for the ride if we can get this current program winning) is a relative of Cunningham Connectiong Rods- A machine shop to die for. He does me little favors now and then but its hard to get stuff done since the machines are tooled for specific project runs.
Did only the 1LE cars have the 1LE prop.valve or did all 4 wheel disc cars with rear PBR's come with it. I also have easy access to a LS1 MC. Which if been reading these past posts properly have a larger pistons? How do you feel this would effect the brake feel?
When I did my initial drum to disc retrofit, I was more versed on the part#'s and what came with what through research at that time. I forget alot of this info but remember something about the original 1le cars to 90 1/2 had one pitch of threads and after 90 1/2 to 92 the later 1LE cars had a different thread pitch- but both 1LE combo valve internals were identical. I put the earlier one in mine of course since I feel under pre 90 1/2 with my 1987. To my knowledge though, the non-1le cars did NOT have the 1LE prop/combo valve.
As for MC bores? What I recall is the standard bore is 7/8" (someone please correct me if I am wrong) and there was a larger option that had a 1" bore that many customers complained about due to having to exert more pedal presure to stop the car. That larger pedal pressure is what gives you a better pedal feel or modulation rather than a high booster fel and an out of touch full power brake pedal feel. The larger the MC the better the sweet spot but of course the harder ou have to push. My factory 7/8" bore unit feels plenty good I am happy with it and do not plan on changing the size even if I were to ever need a new one.
