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I have a 92' Camaro RS 305 thats about to have a new heart this weekend. It'll be a 358 w/.503 lift cam and my brakes already suck, so with even less vaccum im worried im going to rear end someone lol..
My brakes are mushy and everyone says its the brake booster, but couldn't it just be alot of air in the brake lines? I've never messed with brakes before so i'm a newbie when it comes to this. Could anyone give step by step instructions on where to start and how? And without buying a speed bleeder how efficient is bleeding the brakes? Are you still going to have alot of air in the lines? I've seen people just pump the pedal before a good 20 times..?? Thanks alot, this should help some people out in the future
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1992 RS Heritage Edition /350 OE Roller Bored .060 over/Holley 650/Edelbrock Performer RPM/Vortec Shaved Heads 10.5:1 Compression/Beehive springs/Comp Magnum 1.52 Rockers/Speed Pro Flat Top Pistons/Comp XR 270 .502 lift
'10 best 13.1 at 106! Needs some minor tuning for 12s
Mushy could be air in the lines. I tend to think of it more like a sponge when there is air.
What I use for 1-person bleeding is either gravity or a hand held vacuum pump (mity-vac). Although gravity won't always get air out, it is good for changing the fluid.
For the vacuum bleed need a jar with two ports on the lid and some tubing. The ports can be a piece of tubing epoxied or soldered to the lid. The clear tubing from a hardware shop works good. Crack the bleeder, put one tube over the bleeder, to the jar. The other tube from the jar to the vac pump.
Pull a vacuum on the jar and the brake fluid is pulled through the system. There will also be air pulled in past the threads of the bleeder, but this doesn't matter. Run the fluid until it changes color, meaning that new fluid has now been pulled through the system.
Close bleeder, empty jar, fill master, and move on to the next wheel.
Does anyone have pics on what to do here. I remember some of this stuff when I was helping my dad do this, but I have to changed the brake line cause my car pulls to the right evertime I brake. Anyone please help....
For a one man job, I fill a spaghetti sauce jar 1/2 full of fluid, drill a hole in the lid, and stick a tube in there that fits the bleeder valve. Attach the tube to bleeder valve, and crack the valve open. Then, go into car and pump the pedal about 5 times, go under hood and check the brake fluid level/refill if needed, and pump pedal again another 5 times. I do this about 40 total pumps on the pedal, then on to next wheel.
Make sure the end of the tube is in the bottom of the jar, submerged in the fluid. Start with the pass rear brake first (the farthest from the master cylinder), then driver rear, pass front, and driver front last.
Take a test drive, determine it needs more, and go back and do it again.
Repeat. Cuss. Repeat. Cuss. Repeat.
On the vacuum - I had issues as well, and I was able to adjust timing up a tad, and lower carb idle down some, to get a tad more vacuum (like 10" vs. 8") and it made a world of difference in braking.
With a big cam like that a vacum resivor is cheap insurance than hitting a car from the rear due to lack of vacum. Also bleeding the brakes is good to start with.
If you're doing it by yourself those are good ways to do it, but I prefer doing it with a friend.
If you & a friend are going to do it start bleeding from the wheel farthest from the MC & work your way to the closest. Make sure you have a pan th cath the fluid. As for pumping just pupm on it twice, not to the floor jus were theres enough push. Cause when he/she opens the bleeder screw your pedal wil go down & squirt fluid all over the place. So when it goes down don't push jus follow have them tighten it then let go our you will suck in air. I say 3 times per wheel, if no air comes out. If their is air tehn keep doing it till the fluid comes out in a stream. Make sure you keep the MC filled & have lots of fliud ready, its messy but it will clean up with plain water so don't worry. Make sure to wear eye protection cuse the brake fluid will burn your eyes if it splashes. After bleeding just shoot everything down with water, the brake fluid will turn like milk & then your good to go. Hope this helps & good luck.
__________________ '87 IROC -Black
'91 FORMULA -White
'91 Z28- SMO
'92 Z28- Black
Does anyone have pics on what to do here. I remember some of this stuff when I was helping my dad do this, but I have to changed the brake line cause my car pulls to the right evertime I brake. Anyone please help....
Thanks
If that's the case, I would replace the rubber brake lines.
And buy a Hanes/chilton repair book while your at the parts store.