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I just fininshed installing my hydro-boost which took about 2hrs with the modification of the brackets. This is a very simple mod that can be done on the weekend without any expensive tools or parts.
1. Using a dremel grind the rivets off the bracket of the stock power brake booster.
Stock Power Brake Booster:
]
Bracket Removed:
2. Make a backing plate out of a 3/16 or 1/4 sheet of metal: Lowes/ Home Depot
Backing Plate:
Drill 4 mounting holes to match the stock bracket that you cut off the power breake booster bracket, also drill out the center hole for the Hydroboost.
3. Mount the bracket to the firewall with the 4 original bolts under the dash.
Install the 4 bolts/ nuts to stock booster bracket to the backing plate of the hydroboost.
4 Master Cylinder- I know their are rumor floating that you cannot use the Wilwood Master Cylinder...NOT TRUE, I am using the Wil-8555P and she mounted without a problem.
1. I removed the brake pedal from the car (1 Bolt), then I grind off the old brake booster mounting bolt.
2 Next mock up the pedal , install the rod bolt and measure the amount that will need bo be cut off.
3. reinstall the pedal and rod bolt to the hydro-boost.
Thats all it takes, very easy conversion. Now head to the bone yard and get a hydroboost. I bought mine new with the stainless line, so I cost my a bit more. You should be able to do this for roughly what it cost to get a hydro-boost and the few misc part from Lowes/Home Depot.
As you can see my engine os out and I have not tested the system, it might take about a month or so before I am able to get to that. But this should not deter you from going forward. If you need direction on the lines install I will post them too.
what is that hb pump off of? The pump I bought has a rod pretty much like our original already and th ething I am wondering is do we really even need to use the power booster adapter and have a rod extension? the whole point of the extension is because the rod isn't long enough using the bracket but if we had a bracket similar to the hydratech bracket it may be too long instead and then you could just chop off the rod down from the eyelet about an inch or so and just run th eends through a die and get an adjuster sleeve.
kinda figured that by now (just playing with ya don't get mad) don't forget to put the snap ring back on you pump too DTL don't want that nut backing off from road vibration.
Has anyone installed a hydroboost system lately on their 3rd gen? I have a 1988 IROC and was thinking about installing one on mine due to little vacuum from the cam. Any help or direction to a company that makes a kit would be great. Thanks
__________________ 383ci 11.1 to 1, headman shorties with flowmaster 3in mandrel bent exhaust, FIRST injection intake, FAST 36lb injectors, 255lph walbro with racetronix upgraded harness, 210cc AFR aluminum heads, 4340 Eagle rotating assembly, spohn torque arm bar with trans cross member, home made sub frame connectors, pro auburn locker with 3.42 gears, SLP line lock, Dynamic EFI EBL computer system and innovate wideband set up.
Im actually thinking about going to a more agressive cam than the 280XFI, thats another reason why I was thinking about switching to a hydroboost
__________________ 383ci 11.1 to 1, headman shorties with flowmaster 3in mandrel bent exhaust, FIRST injection intake, FAST 36lb injectors, 255lph walbro with racetronix upgraded harness, 210cc AFR aluminum heads, 4340 Eagle rotating assembly, spohn torque arm bar with trans cross member, home made sub frame connectors, pro auburn locker with 3.42 gears, SLP line lock, Dynamic EFI EBL computer system and innovate wideband set up.
The factory break booster requires around 16inches of vacuum. If you put a big nasty cam or a high flowing intake on your car, the vacuum goes way down. Therefore making the factory brake system not work as well. The hydroboost system runs off of your power steering pump. So the advantage would be, you wouldnt have to worry about what cam to run to pull good vacuum.
__________________ 383ci 11.1 to 1, headman shorties with flowmaster 3in mandrel bent exhaust, FIRST injection intake, FAST 36lb injectors, 255lph walbro with racetronix upgraded harness, 210cc AFR aluminum heads, 4340 Eagle rotating assembly, spohn torque arm bar with trans cross member, home made sub frame connectors, pro auburn locker with 3.42 gears, SLP line lock, Dynamic EFI EBL computer system and innovate wideband set up.
(just playing with ya don't get mad) don't forget to put the snap ring back on you pump too DTL don't want that nut backing off from road vibration. 
