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Okay so There was this guy i was talkig to, a knowledgeable man, said i could get by by just bypassing my power booster and just bolting up my master cylinder to an adapter plate. He also said bolt it up an inch higher and also bolt the the rod an inch higher on the pedal. this will give the proper leverage.
now what am i missing then? I mean i know the piston bore is much larger than the proper manual brake ms. but this is temporary for idk how long. id have to shorten the rod correct?
I looked up the bore size of a 85 blazer that has manual brakes and its pretty much the same bore size. Maybe they had a typo but there is a jimmy at my junkyard with manual brakes. Im prolly going to rob it, but if my ms works for now id be content to run this.
its a car that runs at the track and cruises on the street on the weekends
__________________ 1988 I-ROC Z
383. 200cc dart pro1 heads, Cammotion custom grind cam,240/246 560/560 Victor Jr. intake, holley 900 carb professionaly built by BLP, and a big shot.
I have my pushrod connected 2" from the pivot on the pedal, which I believe was more like 2" higher than the stock location. I'd be sure to put the pushrod up quite high especially if you're looking to use a master with a larger than ideal bore. FWIW, I'm using a master cylinder for a 68 vette with manual brakes and it worked, but adding the LS1 rotors, calipers,... really made it much better.
I just used the stock MC on my 83 Camaro and it works fine. Didn't even move the rod. Not much more pedal effort then with the booster. This is with a CP autocross car. I can still lock the brakes easily.
