Anyone ever totally gut the proportioning valve - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

drperformance · 10-31-2009, 05:21 PM

I am in the process of trying to get more rear braking after installing Ford explorer rear disks with a Moser 9" rear end. This is a drag car that I foot brake off the line and I want more holding power to stall it up higher. My car was a disk/drum car so I replaced the proportioning valve with a disk/disk from a 92 but it still does not seem to hold the rears on jack stands above 1200 rpm.

After reading many posts I found that many of people have probles with rear brakes and the remove the valve/spring from the front of the proportioning valve (combination valve). From my understanding though this could create an issue with the delay valve in the rear on the proportioning valve on the front brakes.

So has anyone ever totally gutted the proportioning valve, front and rear? I am thinking that I should remove both and place a adjustable Wilwood valve to the rears.

Thanks

//<86TA>\\ · 10-31-2009, 06:23 PM

i did.

i gutted the entire valve then cut the front section off for the rear brake lines. So i only have the rear part that the front lines attach to. I had a friend weld up all the extra holes so now its just a "t" fitting or sorts. Then i plumbed in an adjustable valve for the rears. Dont have a pic, but i can get one.

drperformance · 10-31-2009, 07:56 PM

I am thinking that I am going to weld the holes closed on the two factory bolts (front and rear) after I gut it to keep it sealed. Still run the front and rear lines from the proportioning valve but add a adjustable valve right under it on the rear line.

AlexM · 11-23-2009, 09:07 PM

Is this working for you?

//<86TA>\\ · 11-23-2009, 09:14 PM

yup

ShMaCk2004 · 12-01-2009, 11:27 AM

what would happen if i just got rid of the proportioning valve completely and disconnected the rear brakes and used a t-fitting for the fronts? would it still stop fine?

Stephen · 12-01-2009, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShMaCk2004

what would happen if i just got rid of the proportioning valve completely and disconnected the rear brakes and used a t-fitting for the fronts? would it still stop fine?

If your suggesting not having rear brakes at all, only the fronts....It'll stop, eventually! Just not very quick & you'll generate a little extra padding under you (in your pants!).

I had my rear brakes go out & had to get home. Talk about PLANNING your stops. SCARY!

ShMaCk2004 · 12-01-2009, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stephen

If your suggesting not having rear brakes at all, only the fronts....It'll stop, eventually! Just not very quick & you'll generate a little extra padding under you (in your pants!).

I had my rear brakes go out & had to get home. Talk about PLANNING your stops. SCARY!

Really that bad even tho only 10% of the braking is done in the rear? Are you sure you were not leaking fluid?

Stephen · 12-01-2009, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShMaCk2004

Really that bad even tho only 10% of the braking is done in the rear? Are you sure you were not leaking fluid?

The rear brake portion of my master was empty, so yeah...Leaked fluid.

But the front half was full & good, didn't leak any. It would EASILY lock up the fronts. NO rear brake assist at all.

I think only 10% is a big mis-judgment.

y84pauloflondon · 12-01-2009, 06:21 PM

I could be wrong, but isn't the ideal braking ratio something like 70% Front and 30% rear!!!

y84pauloflondon · 12-01-2009, 06:24 PM

I have been considering changing the current Dot 3 brake fluid to Dot 4 brake fluid. Dot 4 brake fluid should last longer and perform better in our cars!!!!

//<86TA>\\ · 12-01-2009, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShMaCk2004

Really that bad even tho only 10% of the braking is done in the rear? Are you sure you were not leaking fluid?

no, rear does more than that. This is a really bad idea.

ShMaCk2004 · 12-02-2009, 04:33 PM

ok it was just an idea anyway