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I have searched the forum but wasn't able to find anyone with this issue.
the right front brake seizes/sticks but only in traffic, or if the car isn't constantly moving. (normal street lights are ok)
If the car has been idling I can use the brakes twice before the wheel locks, cold water seems to cool it off and it spins again in a couple of minutes.
Yesterday I jacked up the car let it run for 20 minutes and the wheel spun fine, pressed the breaks over 5 times and it spun fine, put the car on the ground moved it two feet and stopped it, backed it up two feet stopped and then jacked it up and the wheel was seized solid.
Could it be the heat and it off the ground keep it cool enough? Can't see it being the friction from moving all of 4 feet and stopping lightly.
The car does have Headman Headders and there are slight leaks at the gaskets (going to fix that, but getting stuck in traffic is a real issue, I want to fix the breaks 1st. I've had to pull over and wait for it to cool off and for traffic to pass...)
I have already replaced the caliper and bleed the lines, with no change...
I read the rubber line can collapse, was does this look? My lines look fine.
i had the same problem cut the matal collar off with a dremel its a rubber line underneath so be careful slice the collar then pry it off with a screw driver the metal colar is rusted arond the rubber line and squeezing the line it pumps up but wont release right away after an hour or so it will let up but pump it a few times and its locked again if this is how it behaves i guarantee the problem is the metal collar on the rubber line or just replace the rubber line it has nothing to do with getting hot or the caliper i replaced my caliper pulled that wheel at least 20 times in 3 days and went through a gallon of brake fluid taking the caliper off and working it back and forth with an air hose and a c-clamp till i heard about this fix its an instant fix
I read the rubber line can collapse, was does this look? My lines look fine.
They collapse internally and essentially create a check valve. The problem is common. If yours haven't been replaced at some point, they're 20+ years old.
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies." Nietzsche
This has been driving me around the bend! (no pun intended) Some times it was like I had line lock (on the front right only) at lights when traffic started to build.
I will try cutting off the metal collar 1st, if it works I will replace the line, not sure I want to leave it without the collar.
I've only had the car nine years but I haven't ever replaced these. The drivers side seems fine, but will most likely replace both...
Thanks again!
Hey rutters27 I just got a chance to look at this today. Which collar are you talking about?
There is one at the steel brake line (with reinforcement wire wrapped around it) then another at the strut and another at the caliper. Not sure which one to remove. Or do I remove all?
Hey rutters27 I just got a chance to look at this today. Which collar are you talking about?
There is one at the steel brake line (with reinforcement wire wrapped around it) then another at the strut and another at the caliper. Not sure which one to remove. Or do I remove all?
Thanks Again!
Forget the collar. Replace the line. They are cheap.
Forget the collar. Replace the line. They are cheap.
As was said, replace the line. I would replace both rubber lines.I would replace rubber lines at every brake job. Also suck out all old fluid from master cyl reservoir and replace with fresh before bleeding. Then bleed till you get fresh fluid. Dean
I checked at the dealer the lines aren't made anymore, they have a 19 inch after market line, but I'm not sure if it will work. Do I replace the line from caliper to strut or strut to frame? It looks as they are two separate lines that connect onto the strut.
Please let me know and I will take it off when I go to ensure the replacement will work.
I checked at the dealer the lines aren't made anymore, they have a 19 inch after market line, but I'm not sure if it will work. Do I replace the line from caliper to strut or strut to frame? It looks as they are two separate lines that connect onto the strut.
Please let me know and I will take it off when I go to ensure the replacement will work.
Any auto parts store should have or be able to order the proper line. IIRC, there's a single line: caliper to strut (where it attaches for a bit of safety) to hardline.
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies." Nietzsche
Any auto parts store should have or be able to order the proper line. IIRC, there's a single line: caliper to strut (where it attaches for a bit of safety) to hardline.
JamesC
What he said. Also when you get the new line be sure it comes with the 2 new banjo washers.
Thanks again everyone, I think the Firebirds might be a bit different but not sure. Mine looks like its two lines, one to the strut, then another hose to the frame where it connects to the steel brake line that has a steel lining wrapped around it. I called a couple of after market places and apparently there are two types of lines, one for disc and drums systems and another for all wheel discs.
I might be wrong as I haven't removed the line yet hope to get to it tomorrow after work.
I appreciate everyone's help. I recently replaced the heater core and took a lot of pics and will complete a write up soon. It's not that bad a job at all (at least for the Firebirds) It's the 1st one I've done so I can't speak about Camaro's.....
What everyone else said. I had the same problem a few years ago and thought it was a caliper sticking. New brake hoses solved the problem and at the time they were only $10 each.
Thanks again everyone, I think the Firebirds might be a bit different but not sure. Mine looks like its two lines, one to the strut, then another hose to the frame where it connects to the steel brake line that has a steel lining wrapped around it. I called a couple of after market places and apparently there are two types of lines, one for disc and drums systems and another for all wheel discs.
I might be wrong as I haven't removed the line yet hope to get to it tomorrow after work.
I appreciate everyone's help. I recently replaced the heater core and took a lot of pics and will complete a write up soon. It's not that bad a job at all (at least for the Firebirds) It's the 1st one I've done so I can't speak about Camaro's.....
It is one rubber line. It goes from the caliper to the hardline. The part of it you see attached to the strut is just to fasten it there so its not floppin around while your going down the road. Its one line. Im going to help you out here.... This is the part you want...
Napa part%
Last edited by arrowcamaro; 12-03-2009 at 08:23 AM.
It is one rubber line. It goes from the caliper to the hardline. The part of it you see attached to the strut is just to fasten it there so its not floppin around while your going down the road. Its one line. Im going to help you out here.... This is the part you want...
Napa part%
Thanks for trying, will take off the part and take with me hope to pickup tomorrow!
The washers go on the square end which is the caliper end of the hose.
No worries at all, thanks for the leads!
The autozone number is right but you can't tell if part is in stock (on line)
At 12.99 I'm going to pick up both - in Canada they wanted $35 for one...
Part No. H38181 (driver side)
Same with my heater core - cost me $76 and I got a deal! List was over $100 and its the same make (Spectra Premium) at auto zone for $27 (part #: 399083) the pic looks cooper and mine is aluminum, wonder if thats why, still don't seem right though...
Unbelievable....my country is shaking me down.
Thanks Everyone!
Took me a bit of time to get everything done before I could go for a proper test drive to confirm and it was the line.
Appreciate all your help!
I would replace rubber lines at every brake job. Also suck out all old fluid from master cyl reservoir and replace with fresh before bleeding. Then bleed till you get fresh fluid. Dean 
always wanted to that. 
