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Please go to my website and view the 1LE pages. I have some rather detailed photos of the adapter bracket. Study them carefully and see if they can be manufatured at a reasonable cost?
I was going to have some made. But with all the crap I had to listen to about the UPPER door hinge pin&bushing price. I decided against it.
the adaptor bracket as it is called on your site, is easy to make a model and drawing for. Most machine shops could make those.
The caliper bracket, which I think is the part no longer available, is a little tricky because of it is more complex shape. It might be best left cast. The functionality of the outboard thinner web probably might be designed to absorb some of the vibrations during braking, or just survive them. But if the outbd web is purly structural than that leaves more options for its layout.
I would think the easiest way to create that textured surface would be to use a punch. A small nosed punch hit hard at a 45 degree angle would make a similar raised area in the metal. It wouldn't be as good as the original, but close.
The GM brackets are sintered powdered metal. That is why there is a pebble grain texture. The raised dimples are going to be tough: The metal is supposed to "bite" into the spindle casting with these features. Thus, the repro bracket must be sufficiently hard to bite into the cast surface. Tool steel comes to mind, as long as it isnt so brittle as to fracture during the rigors of racing.
so, i don't quite understand whats all going on about the stuff needed and when it will be made, so im just going to go straight out and ask, about how much longer until they stuff that is needed will be made? I remember yall saying sometime in March a while back.. And im thinking about rebuilding the front end, so Im just curious, i don't wanna sound like im rushing yall or anything.:hail:
I was wondering if you ever figured out if the 4th gen rear brakes will fit onto a pre '89 axle. And if so, what type of modifications would be necessary.
I'm still workin' on it. I am waiting for a piece to come back from the machine shop. When I am done, I will have pictures and everything posted on my website. I may have even solved the axle size problem.
Their is another unexpected problem with this (or any) drum-to-disc rear brake conversion. Brake lines! I am working on making this whole conversion as easy as possible. So keep your eyes peeled for it.
When I finally was able to get the order in and accounted for, they told me 150 days. If that holds out, we're looking at the beginning of May for delivery.
Looking into a 1LE setup, I found a set of new slotted 1LE rotors for $150 so I'm kinda steering that way. I remember seeing a site where they gave part numbers for the 1LE calipers, but I can't bring the site back up. I called Autozone and they have no idea what I'm talking about. Anybody have the price and part number for the 1LE loaded caliper, w/o a core? Also do you know if they come with the carriers (some do)? Thanks alot!
Do I want better brakes?
Alrighty then!
:rockon:
__________________ 1986 IROC-Z28 Camaro, yellow/black, fresh 350 LT1 w/TPI intake and 4L60-E, borla catback, Crane Hi-6 ignition, duals in the works
1994 Camaro Z28 M6, black/gray, 382ci LT1, hooker LT's, 3" true duals, delteq, T-56 w/spec clutch, Madz28.com tune, single plane, pulleys, 396 soon
1998 Corvette, nassau blue LS1 M6, cam, longtubes, corsas, bolt ons, 427 LS7 on the engine stand... http://www.cardomain.com/id/dhirocz
Originally posted by dhirocz I remember seeing a site where they gave part numbers for the 1LE calipers, but I can't bring the site back up.
You are probably thinking of my old website on isthq servers, which was destroyed by a hacker over Christmas. I've since moved to Earthlink servers and purchased a domain name. To date, I get on average 240 visitors a day and am sitting at almost a gig a month in bandwidth. That's close to my monthly allocation!
Andy, I've tried to go to the 3rdgensolutions.com website a couple of times recently and it keeps coming up unavailable. It is down? Also, I can't remember from older posts if you modified your original spindles or if you used '89 or newer ones. I have an '83 Z28, so like you, my spindles have "less meat" on them as well. Thanks again for all of your great work and effort!!
Rob
I just tried the website. It seems to be working fine.
But I must now say that the '89 and later spindles having more meat IS A MYTH!
I will have photos up soon (on the website) showing this.
lastly, all the spindle modification info you may ever need is on the website.
If you or anyone else can attend. We will be at the Lowes Motor Speedway (Charlotte NC) Spring Auto Fair on April 5-6-7. We will be located at space #14. Stop by if you can and I will be happy to answer any questions that you may have. We will also have our '82 Z28 (1LE) project car there for you to look at.
Originally posted by ANDYZ28
But I must now say that the '89 and later spindles having more meat IS A MYTH!
I'd have to agree with you on this, Andy. I too, looked them over and found that the 1989-up spindles had a slightly different radius on the base of the tie rod arm, plus a tiny web that isnt there on the previous castings. The improvement in terms of stiffness is probably marginal at best.
After spending $90 for a set of used 1991 spindles, I was somewhat disappointed.
Thanks for the spindle info, Andy and Dan. That will save some money by using my original ones!! Andy, I still can't link to the 3rdgensolution.com site from the top of this post, so I don't know what's happened here.....
Rob
P.S. I'd like to get down to see you in N.C. , but it's a bit of a hike from the Great White North!! If you're ever up for a show in Michigan let me know!
Hey Rob, if you get all your 1LE bits before June 8th, why not bring them over to my place for the Michigan Modfest? I'm hosting a third gen gathering at my house and we'll be modifying cars all day, perhaps even spreading the fun out for two days.
Luckily it's only a four hour drive from London. We head over to Stratford once and a while for the festival, and the drive isnt that bad. Just shoot east on I96 from Sarnia, hang a left on exit 94A, go south three miles, and hang another left. Easy!
Thanks for the link fix Andy. WOW!! The pictures are great! and Dan, thanks for the invite. We'll see how things go. Hopefully Steve will have the parts in by May. You guys are all a credit to our hobby. Thanks again!!
Rob
I bought some of the loaded caliper sets from autozone. I looked it up (when I worked there) under a 90 z-28 with the performance braking package. They came with the brackets, calipers, pads, pins etc. They are listed under Morse #4343.
Now for the real pisser, I bought some of the anchor plates that go btwn the spindle and the caliper brackets, and they are GONE! ARRRGGGHHH, lost in my abyss of a garage. If I could find those, maybe I could measure them out, and try to machine them. Those little bumps would be hard, but I'm sure there is a way.
We bought a seriously expesive digital camera to redo most of the photos to a better quality. I have some NEW calipers here. As soon as I can. I will redo the caliper photos. When I do the upgrade on my '86IROCZ I will get some photos of the "hammer method".
But to be honest, I wish the Third Gen members could somehow send my Wife a big bunch of flowers. You don't know how much we all owe her. I don't know how she tolerates all the time I put into this stuff.
Hey Andy, I see you're online so I'll ask you this question. Are the 1LE front calipers the same casting? It looks like the ones I got are, and just the bleeder and hose fiitting are reversed on the right side and the PBR logo would be upside down. Is this correct?
Thanks
Yes,That is correct. The front calipers are the same. Just move the bleeder screw and brake hose attachment around to change sides. But the rear calipers are different.
Hey guys. I've been looking at this site for some time and am looking for some experienced advice on parts. I have a 92 B4C that was never used as a police car. Bought it off the classifieds here along with a set of 16" factory wheels. Great site! The odometer is close to ticking over 130,000 and it's time for replacement brake pads on the front 1LE calipers. I've had the car since 98k. Last time I packed the front bearings I also noticed a piston boot that was gaping open.
I did the rear pads some time ago with a decent set of premium pads from a NAPA parts store. They've been fine. However I want some real world experience on the best pads to buy for the front. The previous owner said he had the best luck with the GM PBR pads and that they make the least amount of brake dust with good wear. They're not cheap though and parts store replacements are better on cost but I want a good quality pad that will not eat up the rotor but wear reasonably. Also, any advice on the best place for caliper rebuild kits? (Parts stores, online?) I want to use the right part the first time. Thanks.
I've also heard that the PBR pads are really good. I have Wagners and they required quite a bit of outgassing to get them to bite. I had to literally get them smoking hot and then keep them hot. They work okay now, though.
I mentioned the insane prices that GM were charging for loaded calipers to Steve a while back. He said that if i gave him the part number he would get me a quote... that was for the rear calipers. I am sure if you email him with the part numbers he will get back to you. I think his plan so far is to just stock the caliper cage. I bet if the demand is high and the price is right he would carry all or most of the parts as a kit.
Originally posted by ws6transam The GM brackets are sintered powdered metal. That is why there is a pebble grain texture. The raised dimples are going to be tough: The metal is supposed to "bite" into the spindle casting with these features. Thus, the repro bracket must be sufficiently hard to bite into the cast surface. Tool steel comes to mind, as long as it isnt so brittle as to fracture during the rigors of racing.
If I were to tool up to manufacture the bracket I would forego the dimples and use a star washer. It would serve the same purpose and be simpler to tool then. Lon
__________________ 90 RS Convertible "cruiser"
88 Firebird Formula "racer"
88 Iroc-Z Resto-Project car "paperweight"
If you are going to use the rear 1LE setup with LCA relocation brackets, you will not be able to just remove the top caliper bolt to change pads. The ebrake bracket interferes with the relocation bracket so you can't rotate it down enough to take the pads out quickly. You will have to remove both of the caliper bolts (one of which is a little tricky.
OK, this question has been answered before (in fact, I answered it), but my memory is not what it used to be, and the posts got eaten by the board (they were old, after all).
Which set of Earl's stainless steel braided lines fits the 1LE front *and* rear PBR brakes?
28A190 85-92 Camaro with 4-Wheel Disc
28A520 85-88 Camaro with 4-Wheel Disc
(edit)
Never mind, I managed to find my old e-mail receipt from Jeg's. It is in fact 28A190 which fits the 1LE fronts *and* rears.
Omega, I'm a little confused by that picture. My rear calipers are mounted on the trailing edge, and that picture looks to me like yours are mounted on the leading edge. Do you have a bigger picture to show how yours are mounted?
ahhh .. jesss... the calipers change sides though the years .. some are even on different sides .. one leading ..one trailing .. apparently the best is trailing end .. the forces throw the wheel down as you brake ...
Yes, both of my rear brakes are mounted "trailing edge", though I can't even begain to claim it's "stock" (mounted to a 9" ford on redrilled, overbored 10-bolt backing plates).
However it was my experience with the earlier brakes (82-88) and the single caliper on the leading edge that led me to put them both on the trailing edge. The leading edge brakes have a nasty tendency to interfere with the LCAs.