budget builder

iTrader: (3)

Gotta prob; noticed my car wasn't stopping 92rs v6 to 357v8 swap anyway. I take off left rear drum and noticed a leaking wheel cyl. I changed it and adjusted the brakes and cleaned off all fluid. Then I checked the pass side the wheel cyl appeared fine so I adjusted the brakes. Now I only got them tight enuff to create drag enuff that with only my bare hands I can spin it about .5-.75 turn b4 it stops. Normally this is good and I've never had any trouble. Now on grass the brakes felt great they are up and firm. I get on pavement and they don't feel like they stop. The car doesn't have antilok brakes so I don't know why it won't stop on an emergency stop from about 40mph they won't lok no matter how hard I press. The brakes are stock the pedal is up and the pedal is firm. Thx

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

Hey fellas. How does a brake booster work? Its firm too firm like the brake booster isn't helping. Just like a 74 mercury comet I once haD

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

How much vacuum do you make at idle
check and see if the booster holds vacuum.
if the pedal is still really hard, you need a New booster

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

thx will check after work

naf

iTrader: (7)

With the engine idling, pull the vacuum line off the booster, the idle should increase in response to the vacuum leak. Next, inspect the check valve and make sure it's not clogged or otherwise malfunctioning.

You should also put a mityvac to the booster to see that it's holding vacuum. Recently had to swap the booster on my 85, bout an hour job.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

well in the rain and on a lunch break this is the little bit I found out (without a gauge so far) i pulled the hose off and it feels like a very solid hose and it is brand new, i pulled the check valve it seems to be good and clean. i sucked in on the hose barb and it allowed air through but only after quite a bit of vaccum then i sucked in of the booster side and got nothing so it should be good. after work i will have to get a gauge and check the amount of vaccum and a can of carb cleaner to check for leaks. oh and i topped off the fluid. one last thing when I pulled the check valve I heard and felt air rush in like when open a vaccum sealed jar.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

I nEed a timing tape. B/c I have no idea where the timing is but the enigine started diesling a little and was alittle hard to start so I backed off and adjusted the air/fuel screws and it decreased dramatically. I got. 19in vac and brake booster works but brakes (rear) still don't lok. The front completely lok on grass and feel good on pavement. The rear are still rolling. Driver side has new wheel cylinder the and brake shoes were cleaned. pass side wera adjusted. Both side were turned by hand with wheels on and were tight but not so far out that they stay loked (about .5 to .75 of a turn). Does the driving in rev and stopping thing really work? Thinking of getting new drums and shoes. But nothing really wrong with these (that I can see). Ach

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Is it possible your proportioning valve spring is too weak? Everything checking up fine until they're put to use with some heavy load behind the brakes sounds like you're not getting enough pressure sent to the rear, and rear only. Check it out, you will need to bleed the brakes (front and back) after doing this.

P.S. This popped into my head since I plan to add a stiffer spring in mine, to allow more pressure to be sent to the rear.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

I don't know what a proportioning valve or what it does but I will start checking/searching thx. the brake system for this car is stock disk/drum. dumb question: where is the proportion valve? 91rs 3.1 originally. I'm checking rock auto and they don't list one for this vehicle, dealership doesn't either

Edit: forgot to say on grass; front lok rear don't, in reverse same thing. If I pull emergency brake lever up about 3-4in the brakes engage and the car screeches to a hault w/o touching brake pedal. If I let go of all brakes it will coast no brake dragging/locked from over adjusting. If I pull e-brake and hit pedal it THEN will stop like it should!

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

I doubt it is this, but since I'm replacing mine, I figured it couldn't hurt to mention it?

Right under the Master Cylinder. Just a little block of metal with a couple lines from the Master Cylinder to it. The front (line closest to the bumper) is for the rear drums, and the rear (closest to the firewall) is for the front disc brakes.

From this thread
TGO Member Profile

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

the ones that I've found on the net are for ppl that changed the rears to disks. or am I wrong can those be used on stock drum brakes? I need a stock one. do you have a part number just in case? is there a way to test them? or just replace them? found this one from summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-pvks-2/overview/

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

sorry about all the updates but after reading this I'm starting to think this car is operating normally. yall tell me what you think

http://stoptech.com/technical-suppor...tioning-valves

http://www.classicperform.com/How/Ho...-Prop-Work.htm

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

Made it home: tjacked car up one side at a time the wheels are looser than what I adjusted quite a bit more. I had no problem taking off drum on pass side

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

Pass side wheel cyl had two baad stiff places in the plunger so I just changed it out re adjusted the brakes. And bled then re bled the driv side after readjusting drove around yard good improvement. From what I learned from reading the prop is working properly when the rear brakes don't lok. But still assist in even braking so I guess this is the best I can hope for with drums. Brakes do fEel better I just thought they should be locking up

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

Problem solved: u kno if a person would slow down and double check maybe we would see and realize that on the pass side the brake shoes were rev'd. Meaning the big long pad was on the back and the small slim pad meant for reverse was on the front in the drive position. I reversed them,put them in the correct position and used a a stainless steel brush on all brake shoes and drums then readjusted both sides. And voila the difference is amazing. Don't git me wrong they are still stock but man does it stop! Thx fellas I guess I was just in too big of a hurry when I changed them.