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Baby #2 is on the way...so gotta sell my pride & joy. This is an INCREDIBLY clean 1992 Camaro RS that originally came with a 305 TBI, 5-speed & 3.08 gears. Major upgrades are as follows:
330HP 350 H.O., 27K miles on crate engine (bought new from GM)
Edelbrock 750 carb, Performer RPM Air Gap intake
SLP stainless headers
3" exhaust running to Hooker catback
T56 6-speed transmission
3.73 posi rear end
ROH ZS 17x9.5 wheels with 275/40R17 Kumho tires
Check out sig for more detail on mods.
See below for pics...they pretty much speak for themselves...this car is in excellent condition. If you're looking for a super-clean Camaro with a 350/T56 combo...this is your ride. The car has 95K miles on it and is located in Huntsville, AL. I have close to $18K (labor not included) in this car...will sacrifice for $7,500.
Sorry for the slow reply...I was out of town. The car drives well, but the carb does need some tuning. I haven't checked the gas mileage since I swapped to 3.73s, but I was getting 16 mpg in town and 20 mpg on the highway with the 3.08s. The 6-speed came from a 1996 Trans Am that had 83K miles on it when I installed it. I swapped the engine & tranny @ 68K miles on my car, so that means the tranny has about 110K miles on it now.
I have uploaded a ton of pics to the following location, with a couple of close-ups of imperfections such as a scratch & on the passenger-side fender and some oxidized paint on the driver-side spoiler (only spot on the car):
Where are you located? If it came down to it, would you be willing to get the carb properly tuned to make a sale? Is it just the pictures or does the paint not match on the bumper? I was also wondering what the spots were on the front clip. Do all the gauges work properly? Does the speedo work properly after the gear swap?
As for carb tuning...nope, the car is to be sold as-is. Please make no mistake - this is a 15-year-old hobby car, not a new one off the lot. It's not perfect...that's why I'm selling it for this price.
The paint on the rear bumper (and to a lesser degree on the front bumper) has faded and turned more of a pinkish shade. This is common to most red thirdgens and is the result of GM not knowing how to prep fiberglass bumpers in the early '90s.
Not sure what you mean by "spots on the front clip". The paint on the front bumper is definitely not perfect...15 years of driving and encountering bugs, rocks, etc. have taken their toll. This is the original paint.
All of the gauges work properly, although the fuel gauge tends to stay on "full" a little too long and then drop quickly toward the end.
I have a Dakota Digital conversion box, so you can program the speedometer to read whatever you want it to. This is a necessity when doing a T56 swap. I did a "rough cut" adjustment when I installed the 3.73s a few months ago, but it needs to be dialed-in. VERY simple to do. Instructions will be provided with the car.
Hey I have question thats off topic...I have the same set up as you...I have a 91 RS witha 355 carberated with a t56. My question my car runs rich as hell with the factory fuel system in place. I only ran one fuel line from orginally two and I as well have holley fuel pressure regulator. The regulator is set 5 to 6psi and the car runs so rich at idle, full throttle or whenever. The regulator is 12 inches after the fuel line which is what you see in the first pic...then that line feeds into the carb...i can send differ pics if you like. Did you encounter any of these problems and if so how did u fix them? I also have had 3 different carbs thinking it was the carbs and also I have a fram fuel filter before the regulator...here is a pic of it as well as some info!!!
If there is any light you can shed on this PLEASE help in any way you can...this has been a serious issue for me......
<TABLE class=tborder id=post3096365 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #cccccc 0px solid; BORDER-TOP: #cccccc 0px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #cccccc 0px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #cccccc 0px solid" width=175></TD><TD class=alt1 id=td_post_3096365 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #cccccc 0px solid"><!-- google_ad_section_end --><!-- google_ad_section_start --><!-- google_ad_section_end --><!-- google_ad_section_start -->355 4 bolt main with kb pistons, AFR 190 heads, xtreme energy 294 solid lifter Comp Cam, 1.5 magnum rollers, hooker long tubes, true dual dump exhaust with ultra flow muffers, elderbrock air gap manifold, holley 780 vac sec built by PRC in Houston, stock fuel EFI fuel sys with holley fuel pressure regualtor, eldebrock alum water pump, cool fan swith, new z28 radiator, 160 thermo stat, MSD coil, MSD billet disbutor, MSD 6al box, MSD wires, t56 with mcleod clutch, lightened flywheel, new syncros, new 3rd and 4th gears, slp short throw, moser 9 inch with spool and 35 axels, 4.10's, koni adj shocks, boxed in control arms and panard rod bar, poly urethane bushings all around, high torgue starter, brand new z28 power steering box, factory rims with 245 45 Drag radials, new front rotors and rear drums, car weighs only 3245 lbs, sony xplod flip down headunit and 10 disc cd changer and fiber glass big block functional hood. Car is ah beast and has trapped in low 111-116mph running hella rich, redline occurs at 6,500rpm.
I'm not sure if this would result in a rich condition, but I do know that you are supposed to retain the return line with the factory in-tank electric fuel pump. That's the way it came from the factory...I've read where people had mixed results when they went to just a feed line such as in your case. I have heard of people's fuel pumps going out due to deadheading...but not sure about causing a rich condition. I would switch to a Mallory 3-port fuel pressure regulator like the one I have...it allows you to run a return line just like the factory setup.
Another thing to consider is the accuracy of your fuel pressure gage. I have heard of people having problems with setting the true fuel pressure because their gage is always jumping around. You may want to invest in a higher-quality gage and compare the readings. It's possible that you're running a much higher fuel pressure than you think you are...dunno a ton about carbs, but I believe this can cause fuel to "leak" into your carb since it wasn't made to deal with high fuel pressure. Actually, I don't think you're supposed to run even as high as 7 psi...I'm sure you've tried this already, but just dial-down the pressure to around 4.5 psi and see how it affects your rich condition.
Lastly, that 780 carb may just need some tuning...if you don't know much about tuning carbs, you may want to find a local speed shop that does. I know you've been through several carbs, but I suppose it's possible they were all configured to result in a rich condition for your engine.
If you are regulated at 6 psi or under then you are good for a carb setup. If you don't run a return line, you can kill your regulator over time.
If you give the carb too much PSI (above 7 PSI), then you may blow past your float valve seats and raw fuel will come out the vent tubes. In most cases too much fuel pressor has little to do with a "rich" condition. Too little PSI at WOT may cause your fuel bowls to run dry and then you can get a lean condtion.
As stated, you just need a good tune. Try to find a good dyno shop with widebands to get you setup. In most cases, you will find you pick up some power once you get the fuel optimized.
Sorry for staying off topic here. Bulldog92, nice car! Good luck selling her and with the new baby.
Hey bulldog do you have a part number for that Mallory fuel pump...I've been looking and I think it's 4207? Mann you hit all of may issues from flooding, fuel pressure gauge jumping around, raw fuel spilling out..etc...hell my car is doing all of that!!! If this helps I will go nuts!!! Then i will not sell it and fix to the way i have always dreamed!! That fuel issue has been freaking killing me for about 2 years and the car sat for 1 year of that. This is what caused me too put her up for sale....hell if this goes through...im getting the the new paint job, 5 inch spoiler out back, metallic silver paint job and 18's deep dish rims wit 325's drag radials out back as well!!! Im so excited if this solves all my problems...thanks again bro!!!
OK, I had the car sold, but had to give them their deposit back because they never came up with the rest of the cash. Car is back up for sale...anyone interested?
