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1992 Z28 race car (project, but not far from done)
I am getting the itch to sell the race car project again. So, I'll borrow some stuff from my last ad, update it with new extras and lower the price. If it doesn't sell, I probably don't care. If it does, great. I'm getting the itch for a Corvette, or who knows what, but change is good right?
1992 Z28 factory 5.7 TPI car (There's a whole thread about this thing around here, pm me if you don't find it)
Engine:
ZZ3 GM factory steel crank
Lunati Street Race rods
Milodon splayed main caps (positions 2, 3 and 4)
GM Performance parts 2 bolt billet front main cap (position 1)
ARP 2 bolt main studs (milodon bolts in the splayed locations)
Clevite bearings
Melling M55HV oil pump (old M55HV, not the new one)
Milodon steel oil pump driveshaft
1995 GM factory roller block (seasoned with 5k miles on it before being built)
ATI 3 ring aluminum Super Damper (just installed, has 10 autocross runs on it total)
Factory LT1 flywheel
Roller pilot bearing
KB Signature series pistons (12cc dish)
Speed Pro file fit plasma moly rings
ZZ3/ZZ4/87 and up Corvette aluminum heads (port matched to a 1206 intake gasket)
Manley Race-flo undercut valves (1.94/1.50)
K-motion valve springs (130 lbs on seat/380 open)
Comp locks and retainers
ARP 7/16 screw in rocker studs
Pushrod guide plates (I forget who’s guide plates, comp cams I think).
Comp Pro Magnum chromoly 1.52 roller rockers
Moroso polished valve covers
Holley Stealth Ram intake
Edelbrock/BBK 52mm throttle body
SVO 24 lb hour injectors
MSD Pro Billet distributor (87 and up small cap HEI drop in)
TPIS oil pan
Comp 220/230 .510/.510 lift roller cam
Comp “R” drop in hydraulic roller lifters
Comp hardened pushrods
Comp pro billet double roller timing chain (7 keyways for setting advance)
Factory GM timing cover
Balanced
0 decked
“deck plugs” (reduce the core holes down to smaller water passages and reinforce the deck)
Multi angle valve job
Heads were skim cut to make sure they were true
Fel pro gaskets
Bored .020 and torque plate honed
Line bored when the splayed caps were installed (blueprinted to proper crank location)
ARP bolts throughout (oil pan, intake, timing cover, harmonic balancer, etc but it has the GM specified head bolts for these heads). Engine is about 10.5:1 and runs on premium pump gas.
The engine has about 1,200 street miles on it, 7 autocrosses (maybe 8) and 50 minutes of road course track time.
Engine supporting equipment:
MSD ignition coil
Edelbrock water pump
Serpentine 2 piece under drive pulley set
AC and smog pump delete pulleys
K&N drop in filters (modified air box, no baffles)
Energy suspension poly motor mounts
Moroso billet oil line block adaptor
Moroso billet remote oil filter mount (with temp fitting)
3 quart Canton Accusump (with manual valve)
Custom Afco radiator with built in oil cooler.
Flex a lite Black Magic Extreme electric cooling fan (3000 cfm)
#10 an line and fittings for all of the oil system (20-30 feet of line, a small pile of fittings)
Autometer mechanical oil pressure gauge.
Autometer mechanical water temp gauge
Autometer electric oil temp gauge
Autometer pro lite low oil pressure warning light (30 psi)
Autometer shift light
Autometer pro lite coolant pressure warning lite
Wideband O2 sensor (PLX technologies M400 I think).
Exhaust:
SLP 1 ¾” shorty headers with dual cat Y pipe (no cats, it has stainless straight pipe in there)
3” aluminized pipe to a stainless Magnaflow 3x9” race muffler with a turn down in front of the rear axle.
Transmission:
LT1 T56 (rebuilt by Danny Popp)
B&M Ripper shifter
Centerforce DF clutch
Energy suspension poly trans mount
Driveline:
Baker precision “stacked plate” power steering cooler
Lingenfelter 3.5” aluminum driveshaft
Eaton posi
3.73 gears
Moser axles
Summit Racings version of a “TA” rear cover (with cap support bolts)
Spohn torque arm (with front rod end mount that connects to the cross member)
Spohn 6 speed adaptor cross member (it was a kit with the torque arm)
Rear was rebuilt just before I bought the car (last May/June) with an Eaton posi, all fresh bearings, axles, seals, etc.
Bodywork:
Harwood 3" lift off fiberglass cowl hood
Blain Fab 7.5” “road race” adjustable lexan rear spoiler
Interior:
Grant steering wheel (airbag has been removed)
G-force lap belt (part of a 5 piece belt system, included) on the driver side (the harness is out of date for racing).
All carpet, door panels, etc has been removed. The AC and heater assembly has been removed and the holes in the firewall are patched and sealed with RTV. There are two front seats in the car. The factory dash is in place as is the factory instrument cluster. The doors have been gutted and it has no side windows. The rear hatch latch has been removed and hood pins have been installed to keep the hatch closed. The doors have been gutted to prep for the roll cage (no windows). This car does have headlights, tail lights and turn signals, but the horn has been removed (just fyi).
Suspension:
Front:
Hotpart castor/camber plates
ST 35mm front bar
Koni SA’s
Energy suspension front control arm bushings
Ground control weight jacks with 1000 in lb springs
Balljoints, tie rods, center link, idler arm, etc were all replaced about 1,400 miles ago. Everything but the steering box is new.
Rear:
Hotpart swedged chromoly rod ended PHB
Hotpart aluminum rod ended LCA’s
Koni SA’s (30 series monotube)
Hellwig 3 position adjustable rear sway bar 22mm (other bars on request)
Ground control weight jacks with 225 in lb springs
Brakes:
Ed Miller C4HD setup on front with Hawk HP+ pads
Factory 1992 disk rear with Hawk HPS pads
ATE superblue brake fluid
Wheels:
A full set of polished factory IROC 16x8’s and two "rear" GTA wheels as well as an additional set of 4 IROC wheels with Toyo Proxes on them (pretty dead ones, but I'd run them for fun).
Car needs redyno’d, but it is approximately 330-350 RWHP (it was dyno’d on a dyno that was reading very wrong, my max rpm was showing as 5,600 and we ran to the 6,400 rpm shift light. That dyno showed 299 hp/ 338 ft lbs, some exhaust changes were made and it picked up considerable power, so, that’s where the 330-350 hp guess is coming from (fix the 800 rpm they “lost” in the calculations and add a touch for the new traction problems after the exhaust). Car is approximately 2,800 lbs. This engine was built to be durable (hence the splayed caps, main studs, balancing, etc). It makes good (actually it’s about perfect for American Iron once it’s caged) hp and torque, but it’s not a 700 hp monster. It is still pretty quick due to the power it makes and the weight (or lack of weight).
Tuning:
I’ve got the moats “Osterich” setup for this car. I also have a prom burner and cables to do datalogging.
As you can see, there is a "fortune" in this car. I'm guessing between Mike and I (the last owner), it's something approaching $20-25k. Of course you never get that out of them, but go find a factory 1992 hardtop chassis (the "best" year for 3rd gen chassis since they were welded and bonded together) and start pricing parts. I think you'll find this to be a pretty good deal on a fairly well sorted car. It's been pretty quick out of the box (beating some slick tired cars in CP while running on street rubber...and I'm not sure how, it's not my driving). Someone cage this thing and take it AI racing.
Speaking of caging it. I have a fresh roll cage kit from Blaine fabrication. It's a full cage kit with a petty bar, an inverted V in the rear to support it and dual nascar style door bars (for both sides). I've got over $1,000 invested in cage parts...plus freight.
This car should come out just about perfect for American Iron road racing when it's done.
