Car AudioCar audio related questions and helpful hints for building the best sound system for your car or getting the most out of what you have.
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I would suggest the JBL Powervalve 600.1. Itsa pretty good amp for the price. Post pix when you get them.
__________________ - KicKeR -
Sony XploD CDX-650X HU
2 Autotek Stealth 1500.1 Ampz
4 Solo-Baric L7 12"s ( Ported )
Scosche Interconnects
Kicker 6 x 9"s ( In back )
Kicker 4 x 6"s ( Up front )
- Best SpL - 160.9 -
Originally posted by camaro6spd well what else can i get for $50
Just save up a bit and get the better amp. You will have the jenson($50) it will go out and then you will have to get a better one(the jbl 600.1 under $200) so do you want to just get the sub $200 or end up spending $250. Just a thought though.
I had two jenson amps when I was in high school and the only lasted about 1 yr each.
I don't know how old you are to say "when I was in high school" but back when I was in high school (about 13 yrs ago) Jensen was crap. Now a days, I beg to differ.
Jensen has really pulled some great products outta their asses. They seem to be really focused on building quality lately. For instance....... a buddy of mine has a Jensen 50x2 RMS that he's had in 3 cars now. When he first got it, he bridged it to an 8", 4ohm Bazooka and we pounded the crap out of that thing every single day for about 2 mos. That amp never whimpered even once.
And have you heard the XS series speakers they recently came out with? They sound GREAT!!! I listened to them next to Pioneer, Sony, Kenwood, and JVC. The Jensens whooped their asses!!! Go to Walmart or Sears and have a listen. They will impress you, I'm sure of it. Granted, they aren't components so don't expect them to be. Instead listen to them compared to other 2 or 3-way speakers and you'll hear that they're the best SQ/$ out there right now.
Originally posted by camaro6spd well what else can i get for $50
Nothing. $50 for an amp is like buying a $200 crate motor and expecting 13s. $50 is laughably cheap for an amp of any size, and you can't possibly expect a $50 amp to have any semblence of quality.
I understand that people have tight budgets, but you can't expect to build a nice system with unrealistic price goals. With the tight budget you're on, you may be better off spending what money you have on a decent quality cd deck and 4 nice speakers. At least then you've got some decent tunes while you save up for something that's worth buying.
I would also like to add one to the "Jensen has improved greatly over the past few years and their amps are worth the price" list.
I've had a 4ch. 600W and currently run a 300W, I beat the snot out of that thing. It puts out good clean sound and was very inexpensive. I've also used a Jensen head unit I bought for something like $130 that had 5v pre-outs that actually tested at 8 or 9!
Don't knock Jensen, they're really getting it together.
I'm not sure if I have said this before, but Jensen is Sh*t.
It still breaks down just like sony xplode sh*t.
I dont care how it sounds, cause I have heard it, and installed it into other peoples cars.
Still Sh*t. It sux, there is no other way to put it.
Jensen does not spell Quality, and or Good even. I have seen almost as many problems with their equipment, as the sony line.
Legacy makes better stuff then them, and we all know the quality od Legacy....
Sorry, dude, GOOD QUALITY car stuff is going to cost more than $50 bux. It's just the way the world turns.
__________________ Peace, Love, and Carbon Monoxide...
Kj
Known as The Big Tipper, with the Big Dipper...
Woooooooo
i will tell you the Jensen amps that are blue that you can pick up at walmart and eBay for cheap suck... my friends have had some... but last year i needed an amp and looked around and bought this Jensen ATS Competition amp and i bridged it on my RF Punch HE 12... and it was SO loud and clear... it pushes 50W x 2 @ 4 ohms... 100W x 2 @ 2 ohms...150W x 2 @ 1 ohm... and 300W x 1 @ 2 ohms bridged... i now have it running a set of Polk EX2 6½" components and they are so awesome... they're in a set of DJ Sexay's kick panels and the midbass and highs are so clear... if you want that amp i'll sell it to you for $100... it's awesome... remote bass and everything...
__________________ **FOR SALE**
88-90 16" Iroc Rims w/ Centercaps
All rims stripped and ready 2 be sanded and polished. $300
I had a Jensen sub XS10 I bought for $35 about a year and a half ago, and It was pretty much going to s**ts so I decided to have some fun w/ it. I hooked it up to an Earthquake Enforcer Class D Amp ( 1500 Watts ) could not blow it playing it at 20Hz. Hooked it up to a Earthquake Shredder Class D ( 3000 Watts ) and it took every bit of it, but it only played for a couple of seconds @ 20Hz then started smoking and then just stopped. ( Completely fried the voice coil ) Jensen subs are better quality build that a abunch of higher priced subs. There amps are not quite as good, but are better than in past years.
__________________ - KicKeR -
Sony XploD CDX-650X HU
2 Autotek Stealth 1500.1 Ampz
4 Solo-Baric L7 12"s ( Ported )
Scosche Interconnects
Kicker 6 x 9"s ( In back )
Kicker 4 x 6"s ( Up front )
- Best SpL - 160.9 -
hehe. Reminds me of the 60hz tests we used to put some subs through at work. We'd take a lamp cord and wire it to a sub, then plug the bastard into the wall socket.
Most subs go up in smoke within seconds. Some last a couple minutes. The Rockford HX2 that we plugged in lasted a couple hours until somebody got sick of feeling his nuts shake so he unplugged it.
if you are still wondering what you can get, since you're already on ebay, look at picking up a used amp. i bought an MTX blue thunder pro 75x2 for $75. it was 2-3 yrs old when i got it, and it still pushed out around 300 watts no problem. it was a well built amp that sounded great and could take a beating. i stressed it beyond ratings (bridged to 2 ohms, rated to be stable at 4). so just look around. you'll find a much better used amp than a new one.
first off the comment about the guys nuts shaking cause he got sick of the sub beating too hard, classic. i laughed for about an 20 minutes. second, keep in mind im a broke college student with little or no money. i suggest you visit your local trade center(dirt mall) and bargin with the guys down there. i personally do all my shoopping on e-bay. heres where im cheap: i bought a 1200w Legacy red series amp, and two infinity kappa's on e-bay. the kappa's were the "i bought them but never used them" type and in perfect condition. i wired it all in really nice and i did nto do it liek some of you hard core buffs did and wire it to the back of the back seats(doesnt that decrease ventalation??) i wired it to that back hump in the rear( i didnt screw it through the hump i did something ingenious, send me a msg if u want details) anyway dispite their record the legacy looked excellent and pushed those subs hard!. it ruled, and i will never listen to what others say again some amps just are good for the money.
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89 camaro, t-tops, hedman headers, flowmaster exhaust, 305, 5.0, kickin stereo, and a ANTI-RICE window banner.
one of my friends has a jensen amps on a kicker L5 12" sub... sure its loud, but it could be better. another kid i knew last year in school had the same kinda car, with a single 10" L5 with a kicker amp... and somehow it sounds like a night/day difference BETTER lol that 10" pounded ur chest in, maybe something was wrong, but i always thought jensen was crap
Jim85IROC...already ahead of you...i have a new alpine CD deck, a V12 amp and kappa 4x6s and i dunno, just blew out the kappa 6x9s i had in a box...from teh old t-top IROC....kappa 6x9s will not in the convetible...but they are gone and i am depating on getting kappa 6.5 or reference 6.5.....reference are alot cheaper... but handle the same rms and look the same except for the metal in the cone.....i just wanted and amp to push the sub untill i can afford another alpine amp....maybe i will hold off, just hook the sub up to 2 channels on the V12 i have...that would push around 120 rms into it and save up for that alpine amp...also..what should i do to go about breaking in the sub? turn the gain way down and the sub outout way down?
breaking in the sub is more or less a wive's tale. Just don't pound the snot out of it for a few days. Play it at low and moderate volumes and it'll help all of the moving parts losen up a little bit before you start pounding the snot out of it. I don't even know if that is necessary, but it's something I've always done.