Well, Finished the sub box that i was building, and i must say, it sounds alot better then what i thought. After ajusting all the controls on the Amp and EQ settings, it hits real good!!! I Never thought it would cause i built it!!!:rockon: Just thought id share with everyone. Thanks for all the ideas and tips, the were all helpful

Cool, I guess you were so excited with your box that you forgot to show us your pics . Please post some pics.

congrats!

I would post pics if i knew how too. I have a digital camara, i just dont know how to post. Sorry, if anyone can tell me how though i would be glad to snap off some pics and show it off. Im just so happy with the way it came out!!!

just set your digital camera to take photos at a low resolution (around 600), and snap away. then transfer them to somewhere you'll remember on your computer.

once they're saved on there, you just make a new message ("reply to topic") for each picture you want to post, and you click on the "BROWSE" button underneith the box that you type your message in.

in that window, browse to where you saved your photos, and double click on whichever one you would like to post.

HTH.

lets see if this works

Heres another

Well that was easy enough, hope ypu can see them.

and another

Installed...

I think i fit great!!!

Last one, and thanks TheSteve for showing me how to post pics.

looks sexy.. is that a hole in your box below the speaker terminals?

Yes, its a port.

I was told by a few people to put it in so the speaker could push more air, my stepdad took measurements of box and drilled a 1 1/2 Inch hole. Dont know what that was all about, but it does sound good.

I just cant believe how well it fits in there. :hail: Granted it was a PITA but well worth it!!!

Why did you only put one sub in there. I built a box like that but I put in 2 12's and I put the amp under the box. I made it lock and have a hinge so it locks my amp so no one can steal it. Nice box tho good job.

I only put in one sub cause i wanted to see what it would sound like first. If i get tired of it in the future i can always make room for another sub. For now im happy how it turned out. It does make everything sound more natural, unlike the 6X9s. Thanks for the compliment on my box, for my first try, I think it turned out great, after a lot of headaches of course, and finding time to do it.

looks kinda like mine, cept sub in different spot and my is ready for that second alpine . your looks really good. I didnt want to mess with cuttng around the trunk motor so I just made a square that fit...it also lets the bass escape a little more than if I would have sealed the sub down in there...and I dont have a port...by the way, what kind of sub/amp are you running?

I am running a Sony Explod 10" Sub and a Sony 760W Amp, Looks the same as the one in your pic.

That turned out really nice, good job

That's looks good as well as simple. (I always like simple )

Just a suggestion for ya though. Try plugging that port just to see what it sounds like.

The only reason I say that is, from the looks of the entire top plate, there's no easy way for the sound waves coming out of the port to make it to the passanger compartment.

The reason of a port is to do just that; to align the soundwaves coming from the inside of the box with the soundwaves coming from the front of the speaker.

If anything, just try relocating the port to the top of the box. That way you will also hear the bass coming from it.

Or you can just ignore what I'm saying if you're happy with it the way it is. It may help, it may not. Won't know 'til ya try.

I like the setup, i've been thinking of doing something like that as well. Because with that it's not a LOT of bass to shake my car apart but yet I can still utilize my t-tops in normal working order!

Thanks for the compliments, One of these days i will try and plug up the port to see what happens, but as for now, it sounds too good for me to mess with it any more. But like you said, i'll never know unless i try. Setting up the controls on the Amp was a bitch also.

Ok looks like i have to seal the port up. The speaker says optimized for sealed enclosures. Man i should have read the friekin instructions.

how you you like to upgrade to a 12" aluminum cone Xplod? I have one sittin around the house, it sounds killer on the 760 amp bridged. PM me if iterested.

By the way, what is the difference between a sealed enclosure and a ported one?? If i seal my port that i drill will i notice a big change. It sounds good as is, but now im curious.

i think it will sound better in this instance

Ok, well when its not so cold out im gonna get a piece of wood and seal it up and test it. Im sure itll still sound good. Ive also noticed that my third brake light is now working again, that thing hasnt worked in over two years. Its either i moved some wires when i installed the new amp or its getting a better ground since i changed the hatch supports.

Hey disturb you are gonna carpet that eventually arent you???

Ya, after I add the second alpine and the JBL 1200.1 for the subs and JBL P80.4 to the top of the box...I'll prolly have to build a new top or a new box when I get ready to do that though :S.

Thats cool. So far its looking good.

Thanx, yours looks great too

Maybe I didn't catch this until now..... but do you have a port tube in that hole? Or is it just a hole?

Using a port requires a box built to the speaker manufactures specs, then using a port that matches the overall volume they recommend. I.E. you need diameter AND length.

For instance, my Pioneer is ported, and I used a program to find the sound I wanted, and what size box and ports to use to get it. My 'box' is ~1.67 cu/ft. The ports (2) are 2.125" x 5" long. That puts the tuned frequency at 41.5 Hz (I like DEEP bass )

I go the program from www.linearteam.org and it's called WinISD. It works rather well, but you need to know ALL the specs of your speaker (T&S parameters, Qts, Vas, ETC...).

And like I mentioned, there's no point in it if you aren't gonna have the port firing into the pass compartment. You need to hear the sound coming from the port to hear any benefits it has.

Here's a chart from that program. The yellow line is what a 1 cu/ft (Pioneer recommends) sealed box does. The green line is what a 1.67 cu/ft ported box does (Pioneer recommends 1.5). I have the sub crossed over ~60Hz at 12 db/octave, so the pink line shows what that does.

Ok from that post which confused the hell outta me kinda, im gonna go ahead and seal that hole, not port in my box. Hey, its my first time doin this so i'll learn what to do and what not to do. I didnt realize that a port had a tube in it, i thought it was just a hole. Oh well, live and learn. :nono:

And that's why I posted it. For you to learn.

You can download that program for free and use it to play around with different speakers and boxes so you'll better understand, and that's why I posted it.

You are learning. I can tell. And believe you me, I'm nowhere done learning either.

Thanks for lookin out, when i seal the port i'll let ya all know if it made any difference. Judging from all the info ive gotten it should.

Ok, Sealed up port and dont really notice much of a difference. Maybe feel a bit more bass, but sound wise bout the same.
At least by my ears it sounds the same. I dont have a machine to test it though. :rockon:

Try having someone else listen and seal the port and have him/her listen again. See if they can tell the difference. Or if you really want to find out if there is a difference get it Db metered both ways.

Are Db meters cheap or should any audio shop have one??? I also plan on getting a Cap for the car, any suggestions on what size and what brand???

Oh ya, Db meters are cheap...real cheap...if your bill gates lol They're about 900 bucks or so. You might have to look around to find a shop that has one and will do if for a decent price...I went to get mine metered and none of the stores in town had one, was going to go to a different town to get it metered but it was gonna cost me almost 25 bucks to get it metered! I was like **** THAT! I'll enter a comp and get it metered that way, lol. On the cap question...get a 1 farad cap, prolly Fosgate, Lightning Audio, any name brand cap and you should be set. Someone might say get a 1/2 farad, but they aren't really that much cheaper and aren't really worth it, cuz chances are you'll upgrade sometime and need a bigger one, and 1 farad should be plenty and then some to stop any headlight dimming going on in your car from your amp (if there is any). If your headlights dont dim, I would think you wouldnt need a cap....

Oh yeah, they dim. It only does it if ive really got it hitting real hard. And i can see the voltage meter jump all over the place too. So a cap is in order in this case. As far as the meter, i will look around and see if i can get it metered somewhere, just cause im curious as to what its pushin.

I also saw a nice thick wire kit at walmart, i think 4 guage not sure, but alot thicker then what i have now. I think one of these days i'll rewire to thicker $hit.

Hey Disturb, what do you have the gain controls on your Sony amp set to??? Input level and low boost level if you still have the same amp.

Got everything cranked up full blast Im not sure what I have the low-pass filter set at though, i think its aprox 50hz. This amp does that alpine no justice at all. Its feeding that sub an appetizer until the 1200.1 comes (hopefully end of feb, early march). What are yours set at?

Right now the line level is set to at about 60% to max the boost is at 65-70% to +10db and the filter is at 50hz. I dont think that one is actually doing anything being that my eq has a subwoofer output that im using on it.

hey guys i dont wanna sound dumb.. but i just messured up the rear of my car for a sub box.. but what kind and how think of wood do you use??... and does anyone know how much cubic ft Orion XTR 12s need?

use 3/4" MDF (medium density fiberboard).. as for the airspace requirements, i dunno.. check orion's website?