Car AudioCar audio related questions and helpful hints for building the best sound system for your car or getting the most out of what you have.
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Originally posted by crazycamaro83 mtx thunder amp with a fosgate cap. so when its all done ill swap that in. but yeah for sure lightning audion isnt worth nothing.
FYI: Lightning audio is made by Rockford. They are the same as Rockford on the inside. Just cheaper, that's it.
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well I'm no expert, but couldn't even if both capacitors hold the same amount of energy, one could be more efficient at charging itself up, and others may maintain charges better... I think that's sorta related to ESR... maybe not. plus some can possibly be drained faster than others... those are the only 3 factors I can think of, other than longevity of the capacitor itself.
Originally posted by ScrapMaker well I'm no expert, but couldn't even if both capacitors hold the same amount of energy, one could be more efficient at charging itself up
i don't think capacitors of the same value have varying efficiencies. Capitors fully charge after 5 time constants, which is determined by the resistance of the circuit and the capacitance.
True, as with many components, some are the same with different labeling... but also true, levels of design and craftmanship and quality of parts on ANY electronic device is going to make them different. They are not all the same.
Those square or other odd shaped caps typically have horrible ESR ratings and degrade rapidly. I didn’t see an ESR value list (no shock) and in two years it will be higher then whatever it is.
And with the Rockford/Lightning being the same. Take one of each for the same year and similar specs apart and look. Same thing. As in no different.
I will eat crow in that this was the case 4 years ago and according to the engineer at RF they still are.
okay so if the voltage drop is on the inside of the capacitor, what difference can you see on the output of the capacitor? The output difference of a crappy esr, and a good esr?
does the esr basically deal with "current over time"? So the better the esr is, the more current can flow out faster? because the resistance is lower internally?
Good color match on the JL. I'd like to see the wires hidden. But other then that vary nice. Adds some splash with out being over the top.
We're way off topic with all this ERS stuff, but it's started so...
It effects how long it take the cap to change and how fast it discharges. If you run the math for time constants and keep in mind that the cap is only need at base "hits" which are fast you'll see how bad it can get. Also remember that an amp (or amps) that pull 80A (not uncommon) are a load of 0.15 ohm. That makes an ESR of 0.015 ohm a big concern. There's also ESL, not really a concern here, just mixing it up.
This is my newly built sub box. All the components in the box will get replaced with Kenwood, since i have always had no problems with them. Please let me know what yall think...thanks...
Oh and once the box is completed, it will be carpeted to match the interior, and diamond plate under the amp.
Last edited by BlackMagic; 02-22-2005 at 08:59 AM.
I seen that in another post. I really like that. Just something as simple as some angles really sets the box off. Though I'm not a fan of mounting the amp to the box, for reliability of the amp. You may consider using some foam under the new amp.
if the box is well constructed, it shouldn't vibrate much, right? That's the whole point of making a nice, thick box. The speakers and your brains are the only things that are supposed to be rattling.
I've seen some boxes with plexiglass windows and they vibrate too much, which can cause the amp to fail...
either way you're right about mounting it right on the box... even though I've seen this done many times, I wouldn't personally do this, that is, unless absolutely necessary.
trust me i have thought about everything that yall have brought up, but it is built like this for a purpose. When i was designing the box, i wanted something that i could take out easily for the special track days. With the way that i built the box with the well it currently slides out easily, and disconnects quickly, and even goes back in easier. So thats why the amp is connected.
im glassing mine but im making sure i can take it out if i need to.....and if im gunna race im just gunna make sure i have the HP and TQ to overcome any extra weight.
i have a daily driver, almost never racer so comfort is first
__________________ -Alex
"It's a Chevy... If it ain't smokin, you're walkin." ----------- My Cardomain site
if you really get into the whole track thing you'll be pulling that out every time... a bigger motor won't help completely, because you will want to see how fast you REALLY are without that extra 150 pounds in the back...
then you'll go and rip out all the seats...
buy all-aluminum parts
well maybe not, but there's a good reason why the majority of the racers really aren't into stereo equipment
thats exactly why i made it the way i did...it slides out really easy. I am not going to rip out all the seats or anything, but i am going to be trying to get as light as i can and still have a "functional" car. since i am still 16, i have to haul my little borther and all his friends around, not to mention the ladies..
I can say with the utmost confidence that easily 80% of the bad connection in the amps I see, the amp is mounted to the box. I know, I have to call and talk to the consumers about this stuff. The numbers are vary persuasive. But what you have to keep in mind with ANY of my posts is that I fix that stuff every day. I see the broken crap 8 hours day, 5 days a week. I see 101 ways for this stuff to go bad. That tends to skew my point of view. I look at things/installs with "reliability blinders" on.
Any time you can isolate vibrations from electronic equipment, it's a good thing. This doesn't mean you'll have problems, but IF you have these problems, you'll know why.
I've used that thick tool box liner on boxes for people that 'need' the amp on the box. The other problem is that if you can get it out easily, so can someone... other then you. Don't get me wrong, I like the box and if you want the amp on the box go for it. And I'm not knocking it. Chances are you wouldn't have a problem, but if you do... You're taking to a man that uses "light bulb" grease on all his crimps just to stave of any possibility oxidation or corrosion. That's when i use crimps. Any time I can it's a proper western union splice, solder, silicone, heat shrink. You should see anything that goes under the hood.
my amp has lil rubber grommets taht isolate it from the box.. plus the way i have it wired only puts 200 watts RMS each to these subs so theydont pound that hard..
__________________ -Alex
"It's a Chevy... If it ain't smokin, you're walkin." ----------- My Cardomain site
My little system-
Alpine 7995 pre-amp head unit
Alpine MFR-450 amp with Kicker CVR 8" subs
Front Infinity 50.5 components in kick panels (these are the old ones)
Rear Infinity 60.5 components in the sails (only the mids show)
__________________ Rest in peace my wonderful wife, Gina - 1969-2008
I miss you every day....
My updated CarDomain site! http://www.cardomain.com/id/murco1989
One-owner 1989 RS, ZZ4, Comp Cams valvetrain, Edelbrock headers and cat back, Astro performance T-5, Moser rear, Alpine/Infinity/Kicker strereo, and Recaro "Sport" seats. More coming soon!
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