Car AudioCar audio related questions and helpful hints for building the best sound system for your car or getting the most out of what you have.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
be honest with me ... cause i m on a tight budget .... can i take like a piece of plywood cut to 12 in wholes in it , cut it to fit in the well and mount the subs in there or will it sound like crap like i think it will ..... and if it does and i do have to make a box will half in plywood do the job or particle board wich ever one doesnt have like wood chips making it up
BTW that is some funny stuff where the sword dude gets shot
be honest with me ... cause i m on a tight budget .... can i take like a piece of plywood cut to 12 in wholes in it , cut it to fit in the well and mount the subs in there or will it sound like crap like i think it will ..... and if it does and i do have to make a box will half in plywood do the job or particle board wich ever one doesnt have like wood chips making it up
BTW that is some funny stuff where the sword dude gets shot
1 sheet of MDF, some liquid nails, and a box of screws is all I needed to build mine, plus the carpeting. Less the carpeting my cost was under $35 I believe.
also i have a square 12" l5 sub how would i make the top plate cutout for the sub? and anyone have any ideas about porting it like what size ports or anything?
I have a pdf file of the dimensions and everything involved that a member posted a while back. He used to have a website and made these for us at tgo. PM me if you want it.
In my opinion, you need to go ported to go really low. It requires less power and will get lower. My 10" L7 Solobaric is in a ProBox SuperBass rectangular ported enclosure with 1100 RMS and it will make your hair move. It fits perfectly into the well in the back of my 91 RS. The amp is a Memphis Bell. I have the baby bell in my 00 RamAir TA on a ported 8" L7.
I hope that helps some ppl. Sorry about the watermark, but it gets the point across. The front and back as well as the sides will still need a few more cuts, but this shows the basic pieces from one 4 x 8 sheet. Not perfect but I used the diminsions from the post at the top of the thread. The piece labled "slant" is not neccessary, it will be made when one of the front/back pieces is cut to make the slant shown in the original post.
Adam
Last edited by SmokeDiver85T/A; 12-06-2006 at 07:15 PM.
Emails are getting rediculous for me now about that pdf file. I found that post where I got it so the rest of you looking for the pdf dimensions here it is:
Last edited by spartyon; 12-22-2006 at 01:39 PM.
Reason: added file
Anyone have the specs like Spartan posted for an enclosure in the sparetire area and/or the storage compartment?
Maybe someone can gather up all these desighns and specs PDF's and such and make a tech page??Cut down on the threds covering the same info.
Emails are getting rediculous for me now about that pdf file. I found that post where I got it so the rest of you looking for the pdf dimensions here it is:
hey man are those dimension for cutting or just the layout its self if so if im using a 1/8 in ch blade should i just take an 1/8th inch off?? post again thnx
Here's my version of a design presented by Steve "White_Rascal" at the FBodyAudio.com forums It is 1 cubic foot and it will fit one or two 10" subs. Maybe you can even squeeze in a 12" but I don't know. I put in a 10" Alpine Type R SWR-1042D sub.
The first attachment is a GIF image of my version at actual size if printed at 150dpi.
The second attachment is the drawing by Steve "White_Rascal".
Heres some pics of the build process and the final product :
EDIT: For those who read my response, I do not make custom sub-boxes. Apparently some jackass made these comments when I was away from my computer at school.
Last edited by DubyaSsixTA; 03-31-2007 at 05:37 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
i have just one 12" mtx sub, and i like these box ideas, especially the first box at the top of the thread. but i have one 12", not two. so how should i go about building my box? just cut out one hole instead of 2? i listen to rock, and i just want to take the bass off my infinity speakers, so i got a sub. i am not looking to shake the whole world with this sub, but i need it to take the bass off my speakers.
__________________
full msd 6al ign system edelbrock performer intake + 600cfm carb heddman headers 3" magnaflow cat 3" flowmaster summit drop springs iroc sway bars custom premium silver metallic paint job custom 2.5" cowl hood 92 z28 aero gfx and bumpers 15% tint custom blacked out taillihgts grant steering wheel autometer 5" tach 1604 watt sound system
i recently bought 2 15" subs and was wondering if i could use these plans to make the box, but just cut the holes bigger... i love my new subs but a regular box is just plain old boring.... if not does anyone know where i can find plans for dual 15"s or even a place to buy them cheap... i have found a couple of website but none of them offer gray carpeting on the box, only black
I've only got and want...one sub in my trunk I'm thinking of just cutting those dimensions in half and making the top of the box fill the space...just for looks wouldn't want a speaker and deep well right next to it. Would it be just as easy as cutting the box in half dimension wise?
Visualize how the pieces of the box will go together and then measure at least two times before you cut something. Take the width of the table saw blade into account after every cut so you wont end up with short pieces at the end.
Emails are getting rediculous for me now about that pdf file. I found that post where I got it so the rest of you looking for the pdf dimensions here it is:
You are AWESOME for posting this.
Brisk mentioned he used this file for his setup, but had to adjust on some of the dimensions. Boy, he was right.
For anyone wanting to do this setup + a false floor going to the back seat, give me about 24 hours and I'll post up pics/specs of the setup I am doing that uses this design, but actually fits... haha
Ok... a little longer than 24 hours, but here goes...
A - Top measure 39 1/2"
Bottom 26 1/8"
Outside indented cuts 9" x 5 3/8" on driver side and 9" x 7 7/8" on pass
B - 26 1/8" x 8 3/4"
C - Top measure 39 1/2"
Bottom 26 1/8"
Outside indented cuts 7 1/2" x 5 3/8" on driver side and 7 1/2" x 7 7/8" on pass
Center indented cut 7 1/2" x 15 1/4" (almost 100% positive this is centered at the top)
D, G - Outside 10 1/4"
Inside 8 3/4"
Bottom 8 3/4"
Top: Connect the outside and inside edges
E - 6 1/4" x 10 1/4"
H - 10 1/4" x 8 5/8"
F, I - Outside (I forgot this measurement) Measure to fit your box
Inside 10 1/4"
Bottom 8 1/2"
Top: Connect the outside and inside edges
J - 16 3/4" x 7 1/2"
K - 15 1/4" x 3"
L, M - 7 1/2" x 3"
False floor - Seat side 44"
Tails Side 42 1/2"
Width 34"
I had the idea of taking my back seats out i mean its basicly a two seater anyway and putting two 12's there in a custom fiberglass box with neon lights i have a orion hcca amp that puts out over 1,800 watts & its 1 ohm stable im just trying to find the time to build this box ive been dreaming about
Does anyone know the dimensions to make it two separate boxes? I assume it's just a board I'd add, but I'm not sure where. If I end up calculating it I'll post the location of it.
sorry it won't let me edit my last post, but I figure this deserves to be put in this thread. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...T-TopRiser.jpg
It's my idea that lets you use your T-Tops and mount the amp in the middle with the enclosure plans listed earlier (the PDF). Also, I'm posting in here because it's stickied, and is directly related. I figure maybe it'll help someone else (note in the pic, the subs and enclosure aren't exactly to scale, but the riser is). The riser is 2ft long on the back, 3inches tall, and has 6inch wide legs. 15" long sides, and the interior leg side lengths are 6inches long. If this is unclear say so, and I'll add the dimensions to the pic.
also sparty's design can easily built with a circular and a jig saw. No need for a table saw.
ok you guys, in the pdf file provided in here, it says the top mount depth for the subs is 5.25" or 6" is this true b/c otherwise my sub selection will be very limited. im looking into these http://www.caraudiocraze.com/subwoof.../prod_861.html
Please forgive me if this has been answered before but would these dimensions also work for a 91 convertible? Als i apologize for reviving a older thread
I made a sytem for subs as well, except i didnt make a whole box for it, i just made it with the top plate of what u would use for the box and put it on hinges so it can flip open and you still have the space underneath, i mounted my amp on the bottom of the trunk well, ill post pics later, im curiouse to know how u kept the sides straight and be able to put it in past the metal rings cause i had to cut in a litlle bit so it would clear them and fit in.
Well everything ive heard says ported is better 4 over all loudness were as sealed is better 4 sound quality in my z28 i installed a single 12" hiffonics brutus sqaure in a custom box and thats enough to get u pulled over!!
I did, me and my dad built a ported box and had to seperate them internally for airspace. I think it's pretty sweet and the price was right, maybe 100$ for random stuff. All the components are all my dads left over old stuff.
ps. sorry for kinda stealing your setup demitri.
wow gotta love the grey interior that looks purple. Stupid camera
Last edited by RU1NER; 02-27-2009 at 10:13 PM.
Reason: because
fyi it's not symmetrical, so you can't just put a wall in the middle. You'd have to measure and calculate the actual center. But if you're running two subs that are brand new and teh same, what does it matter? as long as they both work you're not gonna blow one.
__________________ 92 RS TBI with T-5.
Dynomax Catback,
Hi flow cat.
TBI MODS-In progress LT1 cam swap, ported heads, ported tb unit
Infiniti 6x9s, 4x6s, 2 pioneer 12's.
500 watt blaupunkt,
power acoustik 840 gothic series
fyi it's not symmetrical, so you can't just put a wall in the middle. You'd have to measure and calculate the actual center. But if you're running two subs that are brand new and teh same, what does it matter? as long as they both work you're not gonna blow one.
Ya cause the board in the middle of mine is off like a couple of inches.
I have two rockford fosgate punch p2 twelves and i need to know if any mods will need ot be made to accomidate the air space for them or if it will be okay without any modifications
I would check the minimum space allowed. I think the box works out to a little more than a couple cubic feet. You can add baffling material (not sure of exact name) to make it behave like a larger volume, but not much. Check the manufacturer's website or it should be listed on the box the subs came in.
__________________ 92 RS TBI with T-5.
Dynomax Catback,
Hi flow cat.
TBI MODS-In progress LT1 cam swap, ported heads, ported tb unit
Infiniti 6x9s, 4x6s, 2 pioneer 12's.
500 watt blaupunkt,
power acoustik 840 gothic series
Just to let every one know i have a program that will make the demionsions you need like you measure ur space and then put it in demensions and make a box. Its very easy software and i am willing to share FREE. i got it from a buddy of mine so just pm me and i will send it its called probox which is easy. CHeaper to make ur own box than to buy a premade. its time consuming but sure worth the effort.
:
