Car AudioCar audio related questions and helpful hints for building the best sound system for your car or getting the most out of what you have.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
I made a sub box for the trunk
It took me 2 days, I know it should have only taken one, but I did all the cutting outside, didnt want all that dust inside the house. And daylight was scarce.
Check it out
the I made the platform for the amp with the wires running underneath, but I didnt like the look of 2 seperate parts in my hatch area, so I did a little re-work to my sub box, and all the wires will run underneath, and there will be no seam at all.
The only think I took off the box was carpet and spacers. the top is still MDF, but the platform if plywood
if they're the same sub then it shouldn't change much. you seperate them to make sure that if one sub blows one doesn't recieve too much volume and blow itself apart. chances are though, that even 1 sub is good for that enclosure because it's not too big (a few cubic feet).
__________________ 92 RS TBI with T-5.
Dynomax Catback,
Hi flow cat.
TBI MODS-In progress LT1 cam swap, ported heads, ported tb unit
Infiniti 6x9s, 4x6s, 2 pioneer 12's.
500 watt blaupunkt,
power acoustik 840 gothic series
Im starting to build a sub box tomorrow, but i wanna know like what do you guys us to piece it together? Like screws, wood screws, wood glue? Just wondering. Also, like is there anything i need to put inside the sub box or do i leave the inside hollow.
Use Liquid nails as well as appropriate wood screws for holding it together. I suggest building the entire box once with just screws, then reassemble it once you know everything fits w/ liquid nails. Once it's done you need to caulk all of the seams. Finally, some rope caulk is a good idea to seal the subs in so you can remove them if you need to.
And cpt howdy...
That's sweet!
I'm loving the grill logos. I had grills like that I bought from fleabay but they didn't fit in anyway conceivable to man, so I ditched them :/
I'm using this site to do the math for a custom 8" and 12" sub combo box to get better overall frequency response.
I'm too old for big boom but sharp and clear boom is for me.
I'm using this site to do the math for a custom 8" and 12" sub combo box to get better overall frequency response.
I'm too old for big boom but sharp and clear boom is for me.
I really wouldnt recomend doing two different subs, let alone sizes. Its never a good idea to mix and match different subs in the same car/system. Even if your not into the big bass.. Im sure many others will tell you the same. Just cuz different sub sizes tend to do differnet frequencies better than others, doesnt mean they will play well together. Not saying you cant, just letting you know what i think.
O ya and thats pretty helpful site. I am using it myself right now to try and figure out how im going to build my box. I am doing two DD 1508 8" subs, and im going to do a slot port. But being at needing about .9 cubes per sub, its not looking too great. I can get that much space, but after port and sub displacement its not going to be quite that many cubes.. My measurements are quite a bit different than the original post. Not sure if my 82 TA is a little different or what, but i got 25 on bottom, about 5 inches over the drivers side, and 10 on the passenger, and about 15 from top to bottom to sit flush, not exactly but its real close. Im pretty sure i can fit 25" total on the bottom too.
Boxes look great guys... Thinking of building one myself.
__________________ NEW ADDITION: 1982 Z-28...4 Speed
1984 Berlinetta, now a parts car.
1982 Camaro Bone Stock. Don't ever let dogs in a car. (Stupid PO)
1986 Sport Coupe V6/V8 Swap
Last edited by 19Chevrolet84; 07-28-2009 at 09:36 PM.
I was wondering if anyone has seen one of these boxes pre made for 2 12in subs with each sub being seperated. I just got one of these boxes and i was too excited to put it in so i didnt even look at how mine was made. Im guessing theres one template for a 2 sub box so there all made the same but I wanted to check with you guys cuz im too lazy to take a sub out =D
In my opinion, you need to go ported to go really low. It requires less power and will get lower. My 10" L7 Solobaric is in a ProBox SuperBass rectangular ported enclosure with 1100 RMS and it will make your hair move. It fits perfectly into the well in the back of my 91 RS. The amp is a Memphis Bell. I have the baby bell in my 00 RamAir TA on a ported 8" L7.
how deep is your box, and where could i get one? I have a 10" solo x im wanting to put back there, but i cant find a box to fit, cant build one that is vented myself, and damn sure am not trying to pay some shop to custom fab me one. Any help is appreciated.
I have 2 10 inch W3 and my box doesnt sit in the well its up on the higher part of the trunk behind the the rear seat. Ill post some pics after i take them.
Well boys my son and I did up the enclosure with the pdf specs and aside from one small error on my part this baby rocks. Tablesaw, skillsaw and a drill. Fits like a glove into the well of my son's '89 IROC. We dropped in two 12" Alpine S subs.
i got 2 tweeters, two 4x6s, four 6s, 2 6x9s on a 360 watt 6 channel fosgate amp, and two memphis 15s on a 500 watt 2 channel insignia.... i plays pretty loud
less than 5 mins in joining the forum and found very useful info...im starting to like this already! LOL. you rock
Quote:
Originally Posted by camrust25
i got 2 tweeters, two 4x6s, four 6s, 2 6x9s on a 360 watt 6 channel fosgate amp, and two memphis 15s on a 500 watt 2 channel insignia.... i plays pretty loud
...15s fit in the back? and do they "wham" enough to be head but without cracking/breaking the hatch glass?
Last edited by clomkfly; 03-25-2010 at 03:41 AM.
Reason: wanted to quote without double posting
does anyone have number for to 15s. and they need 2.5 cubes each. so im looking at 5 cubes tuned to 32 hertz. im runnin to 15 inch rockford fosgate Hx2's and a old school fosgate 800a2. any help would be great!
__________________
91 Z28 350 TPI shortie headers 700r4 transmission with transgo shift kit and a b&m 2000
stall torque master torque converter
less than 5 mins in joining the forum and found very useful info...im starting to like this already! LOL. you rock
...15s fit in the back? and do they "wham" enough to be head but without cracking/breaking the hatch glass?
yeah they fit... they knock pretty good they would probably do better if my box was sealed a little better.. its not really even a box its just a piece of mdf that covers the whole back.... i have no problems with the hatch but the plastice rattles pretty good.. i now have a memphis 500 watt pushin the 15s instead of the insignia
if you use a bigger cubic foot yes the subs will have a deeper sound. but its not about quantity....ive built two diff boxes one with 2-12" fosgate power hx2 dvc subs sealed an one with 1-12" rockford power hx2 dvc ported. the ported box hit an amazing 162 db with a fosgated 850s power series amp (about 927 watts peak) when using the same amp an 2 12" sealead i only got 132 db. TRY AN "L" PORTED BOX!
Ok. Im making a template box to see if the measurements are correct. But I ran into a problem. It seems that the measurements are off on the picture below. Suppose that the total length from top to bottom is 15 3/8" right? Ok now if we get the measurement of the 2 other measurements on the left side which are 6 1/2 and 7 7/8, then the total of the two is 14 3/8". So the measurement is off. To get a better understanding of what Im trying to explain, go here.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6R1S5Ymrxjk
I'm building one in the near future, and I made a Google Sketch-Up design for it. If you dont know, Sketch-Up is a free 3D modeling program. Heres the file, I found it to be great help
I tried to check out that sub box that was designed on google sketch. But then I found out that I had to download that program to view it. The program itself is just a waste of my HHD space. 40 Mb, . Too much drive space just for a dang picture with measurements in fraction form.
I tried to check out that sub box that was designed on google sketch. But then I found out that I had to download that program to view it. The program itself is just a waste of my HHD space. 40 Mb, . Too much drive space just for a dang picture with measurements in fraction form.
Haha. BTW the measurements are identical to the OP, but I just like it cuz it gives you the visuals. You can click and drag and pan around all 360 degrees and look at every dimension with no math :P
im an auto tech for best buy. blue print for the box is almost EXACTLY how i build mine for customers and how i built my own. i built mine as deep as possible to get the best sound.
unfortunately i had to give up my slot for my t tops. definitely recommend porting any box you build if you plan on having powerful subs
two 12" kicker cvx's. 750 watts rms each.
powered by quantum audio amp & rockford cap.
vert well is the same
and your demensions on the lower part of the box apear right on
I'm just saying for the top panel instead of squaring it off I over size it slightly compared to the lower part of the box and form fit it to the plastics
I've owned 5 different 3rd gen's and built several boxs for
them
and when I charge $400 for a box people want something that looks pro
$400 FOR A BOX!!!! Wow. Thats a bit pricey. My Bro in law bought my IROC for $800 before giving it to me as a wedding gift.
Well I got a box from my Bro n law. He got it from a stereo shop. Trust me, DO NOT BUY unless you verify it is what you are looking for. My box is suposed to sit flush and flat along with the hump. Well I guess the person who built the box did a bad measurment because instead of sitting flat, it actually sits at an angle. The backside of the box leans up agianst the hump on the cargo cover that covers the pull down motor. I would of wanted it to sit flush so that I can use the T-Top bag but it is what it is, for now. Here are a few pictures of how my box doesnt sit flush.
If you make or buy a box, make sure that the width (front to back) is not over 7". Consider the measurement provided on the first post. I took measurements of my box on all perimeters. Here is the measurements which is good, except for the width of front to back. if the width is too much, the box will lean agianst the hump and act as a forward firing box, not flush with the hump of the gas tank.
I was wondering if this dimension will work for 2 12" alpine type r and also for 2 12" kicker l7 and with what speakers will work better alpines or kickers? Thanx