I used the plans that were made available on this site Using 3/4" mdf, I followed the instructions to a "T".

There are pieces you have to cut out after you get it together, after cutting the piece out roughly with a jigsaw, I used a trimming tool and a flush mount router bit to get the edges flush.

Here’s a tip to make the top pieces and get it flush around the edges. Use cardboard to make a “rough” template. Then take bits of cardboard or paper and fill in all the gaps. Use tape to hold the pieces in place. Once your happy with it, place your template on a sheet of mdf and trace it out.

Finished box, I have some matching carpet to cover it in. I just need to figure out if I'm going to make a "cover" or not.


And before someone says "you should have divided this" there is no need to. I'm running two 8 ohm subs bridged to a kicker amp. If I was running the amp in stereo I might have done something different.

This is just fine..

Looks good. Would like to see some pics when its all done.

Looks awesome. I'm tackling this project soon. Where did you get the carpet?

I bought new ACC carpet for my car a month ago, so I order a extra yard so I would have enough to match.

nice job

Thanks!

I got it finished, I haven't mounted my subs yet but I made a removable cover that is wrapped in the same color carpet that I have in my car.

I used a pair of old kicker 10" speaker grills and fastened them into the board to protect the subs.

Trying to go for a stealth look.....don't want anyone to see my subs from outside the car.

hey i am lookign for the same kinda box, i have the plans. just need an idea of how much it is to make. i kow mdf is pretty exspensive and i think i would need about 2sheets. maybe 1 1/2 idk.

I used 3/4" of a sheet of mdf...cost me about $28 for the sheet

I still have a piece of mdf 24" x 48" leftover

following the pdf instructions you need one sheet of 3/4 mdf and you end up with some small scrap pieces. here in BC a sheet costs roughly $40CDN.

ok not to bad. i was told that mdf was liek $60 for a 8ft by 8ft peice.

Have you weighted it? But great work, looks great.

Eric

I haven't weighed it, but probably weighs around 40 lbs.

I didn't follow the way the instructions said to cut the pieces on the pdf, mostly because I wasn't going to man-handle a full sheet of 3/4" mdf, I had home depot rip it down to four pieces approximately 24" x 49" each. mdf isn't exactly 4' x 8'....it's more like 4' 1" x 8' 1".

If you look at the pdf your going to have an "extra" top panel and some circle spacers.....which I didn't need. Hence having an extra 24" x 48" piece left over.

Also when you cut the pieces, don't cut them all at once, the main reason is because you could end up with pieces that don't fit. Start with the front, bottom and sides, then use them to cut the other pieces as you start assembling it. The back is dependent on the bottom sides because it has an angle in it....approximately 16 degrees give or take a few degrees depending on how accurate your sides are.

That way if your 1/8" too short on the bottom....you can make what's coming up next 1/8" shorter to accommodate. For the pieces that were mirror pairs, I made one and then used my router and flush trim bit to duplicate the other.....that way it matched perfectly and no deviation in size.

Just wanted to say that thing came out great. These are one of the most difficult cars to build a box that fits and works for subs and it looks like you definitely took the time to do yours right.

Thanks!....the carpet set and matching carpet came from 1A auto (little plug for ya).

I actually told the guy I talked to what I needed the extra carpet for. Couldn't remember who I talked to on the phone...it was supposed to be Carlos but he was busy at the time so I got the guy next to him.

Hey, no problem at all.That came out awesome.

hey, that looks really good. i have a quick and maybe a stupid/ obvious question. Where did you get the pdf for that? is it the same as the ones that are posted here? http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ca...l-sub-box.html (Dimensions for well sub box) for me there are only three pics, and it doesnt show anything about getting past the trunk lock except for the top part. i hope that made sense haha

Here's the plans I used, it was posted in that thread...ignore everything else.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/at...box-model1.pdf

I'm a little confused about what you mean by "doesnt show anything about getting past the trunk lock except for the top part"

like there wasnt that indent to get past the trunk lock up except for the plate on top but with the plans u posted, it shows it. thanks a ton for it too

looks great nice work!

Looks great I used the same plans to build my box! I just did a little different style top. I am already thinking about changing it up again, but thats how these things usually work! I really like how yours came out!

Thanks, it took me all day last saturday to build it. It won't take as long next time

I "thought" about building a few of them and listing on ebay or something to help support my car habit. Especially since no one actually sells this style (That I have seen). Most I have seen aren't the flush style.

Not sure what I would charge though, it was a little bit involved to make. Most likely in the $125 - 140 + shipping range. I have to clear at least $100 to make it worth my time.

We'll see, I suppose

I have actually done what you are talking about. I built a few for thirdgens and even a couple for some fourth gen cars. I sold them locally to firends and other people on other forum sites. I have not listed any on ebay but I have thought about builind some more and doing that as well. I charged $150ish to give you an idea. With all the materials to build and even included a carpet or felt cover with my time I thought $150 was a good price. I did let a couple just boxes go without and covering (carpet or felt) for $115-125 range...

Yeah the only thing about eBay is the high-arse fees, list a few times with no buyers and you'll rack up $20 in fees in no time.

Even subthump doesn't do 3rd gen boxes....or at least it wasn't on the site.

Thats why I sold them locally I used craigslist and local forum sites and friends that where too lazy to build their own. Subthump does not make a thirdgen box there is actually a good market out there for those who dont want to make their own. The prefab ones on ebay arent that great of quality either well atleast the one that I have seen bought of there...

The biggest problem I see with trying to buy one of these and having it mailed is the shipping cost. These things are huge and when done with the right materials, very very heavy. Shipping on something like this would definitely equal about what's being ask for the part itself. Definitely something that you want to try to get local or dive in for yourself. Materials aren't that bad if you mess up and I can always find other projects to use MDF for (I like building home speakers too).

say if i was to keep a jack under the box, could i just not add that bottom part and still sound good with 2 10's?
it would be pretty flat but idc.. i dont want real loud bass anyway

I thought about that, I did a quick quote to california, which is usually the highest for me to ship....it came around $45....which is still pretty good for this kind of box / weight

It can be done, but I wouldn't put 2-10's in it if it's done that way. Not enough airspace. You could get away with 1-10 or maybe even 2-8's.

What size box does your sub(s) call for? IIRC, these boxes are over 2.0 cu. ft. in this design and most 10" subs call for around 0.7 each, so you may be able to do away with part of the lower section to give you the room you needed. However, since the shape of the box is not your standard rectangle, you may have to get creative to find out exactly how much space you're using.

I'm using Kicker Comp 10's they suggest putting each one in 1.0 cubic foot enclosure loosely filled with poli-fil. According to that this enclosure would be right on the money for a pair of Kicker 10's.

I am running 2 12 inch Kicker CVR's in a similar box actually probably the same box and they sound great! I would not recomend building a box without the bottom, it wouldnt sound right and you wouldnt have the correct air space or pressure. I have seen some people do what you are talking about and they liked it so try it and see!

I was unclear in my response, sorry. What I was saying was design the box as a sealed unit, but eliminate the lower section of the box so he had room to put the jack under the box itself. My apologies.

As long as the box is built to the subs specs or close to them I think it would work. But I dont think you would be able to build a box like that for 2 subs. Your talking like a shallow sub box? They do make shallow mount subs that require a little less air space that might work.

Yeah, I was assuming the poster meant to eliminate the lower section by chopping it off, yet leave the box sealed. It would be a shallower box with less airspace.

if you would send the box to pennsylvania, id buy one. cause $125 is a good price for them.

i would buy one to and pay the shipping to california

Make it $200 + shipping and I may be more inclined to give up a saturday to build a few of them I have to order boxes and find styrofoam protection to ship these in.

At $125 I wouldn't be making much by the time you figure in a sheet of 3/4" wood, screws, glue, sandpaper, gas buying supplies and wear and tear on my router bits. Not enough for me to make a mess in my backyard and give up working on my personal car.

You can check shipping by going to www.fedex.com and plugging in a box 40" x 14" x 15" and weighing around 50 lbs. My zip will be 72401.

That's a box w/o carpet and cut to whatever woofer size you want. I highly suggest using 10's because of the airspace but I'll cut a 18" hole if I could.

Just keep in mind the deeper speakers need spacers, mine didn't.

Less then $200 is a GREAT deal to have one shipped to your door. If I had time I would build two of these and get them right out to ya but I am with 88TransAmFreak here it have to be worth my time. He did a really nice job on his and obviously konw what he's talking about. If you search through the threads you probably could find mine too.

Also all the information he's giving here is 100%. 10's are the best way to go for quality I personally went 12's but the airspace is important. I also started with shallow subs but then upgraded to my 12 inch CVR's and ran into a little problem with the sub being to tall for the box. I had to take my box a step forward and add baffles to make the subs fit.

Edit: here is the thread of my box. Just about the same thing he did here. http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ca...box-check.html (My Sub Box! Check it out please tell me what you think!) and a few pictures of mine installed:

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will 12" subs fit that box?
as in the face of the sub. I know about the air space im only looking to run one 12 inch I think with a divider installed to reduce the Air space to the correct amount

If your looking to run only one sub you should be fine as you have more options of where to mount your subs in the box. In the above pictures you can see my box where I run two large 12's. Work perfectly...

That's correct, you could even shorten the lower section some to get the airspace down. A lot of 12's will play fine in two cubic feet and even with that much airspace for one sub you could even get away with porting the box.

the price is fine how long would it take you to build it,and is the box work with
two kicker L7's or one

It would fit two Kicker 10" L7's just fine, they require one cubic feet each and that would be right on the money.

I still have the template for the 10" solobarics handy when i cut the hole for a fiberglass box I did one time. So I can cut the holes accuratly.

I have some time this weekend to make one, that's the times I would work on them is on saturdays. Can ship on monday, what's your zip so I can get a more accurate shipping quote?

Thanks

my zip is 94806 and i have one kicker L7 already

I modified the plans to allow a second amp (for the sail panel speakers) to be installed on the driver's side of the box. I took off 5" but I think I should have gone 6". The subs are JL and the amps are Alpine. I couldn't have done it without the great plans and pictures I found on this site! I also never knew spray glue could be so fun.

Ya, That's what i meant. Except now i have a single
12" JL W3V2.. My car is missing the original jack so i was planning on leaving a typical floor jack in the trunk.

But i think ill just go look around and try to find the original jack somewhere..