Car AudioCar audio related questions and helpful hints for building the best sound system for your car or getting the most out of what you have.
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I mounted my amps, & a few other things right over the tank. I used one inch screws. I know its a bone head thing to do, but its done. I was thinking that one inch would be fine, & I did stay away from the center Where the hoses are. Am I ok?
What he said may not have been of any help, but it is down wrong to have bashed him on owning a V6 car.
Don't treat other members that way. Should we bash on your 305 TBI?.....
Ya I agree man just more of a joke then anything. I had a v6 rs myself. Was it a lil low? Ya. But I got kicked when I was down, so to speak.
k so back to the post. the screws are 7/8ths, & forgot to give for the carpet. 5/8ths went threw. Hope this isn't to confusing. I will post the pics, and let me know if I should measure. Forgot that the fuse block in the rear center has a screw in it too
Honestly, I would get a some much (MUCH) shorter screws to replace those 1 inchers. They may not have punctured the tank but one good bump or pothole might...
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Honestly, I would get a some much (MUCH) shorter screws to replace those 1 inchers. They may not have punctured the tank but one good bump or pothole might...
Honestly, I would get a some much (MUCH) shorter screws to replace those 1 inchers. They may not have punctured the tank but one good bump or pothole might...
Ok I will do that. I was thinking that if I did make a hole that it was best to leave it alone since the hole, or holes should be plugged. It would be hard to tell if their was any holes,without dropping the tank right?
Might be able to turn on the car and when the car primes up the fuel pressure will let air escape back there and you might be able to hear it. Either way, something needs to get done, this was the same problem the Crown Vic's had, get rear ended and a bolt (or screw as it may be) punctured the tank and caused a spark. Something you don't want to play with either way. Take all the screws out to replace them with shorter ones either way, and when you have all the screws out, have someone turn the car into the on position, but do not start, so that the pump will prime and build up pressure. If you hear whistling or the sound of air escaping, then you likely punctured the tank. This is of course a half as test compared to dropping the tank and being sure. Definitely get shorter screws in there immediately!
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Might be able to turn on the car and when the car primes up the fuel pressure will let air escape back there and you might be able to hear it. Either way, something needs to get done, this was the same problem the Crown Vic's had, get rear ended and a bolt (or screw as it may be) punctured the tank and caused a spark. Something you don't want to play with either way. Take all the screws out to replace them with shorter ones either way, and when you have all the screws out, have someone turn the car into the on position, but do not start, so that the pump will prime and build up pressure. If you hear whistling or the sound of air escaping, then you likely punctured the tank. This is of course a half as test compared to dropping the tank and being sure. Definitely get shorter screws in there immediately!
Ok. Thanks for the help. God how dumb do I feel right now. Might have thought about it if I ever had to, have dropped the tank in the past.
you can remove the screws and use a straight piece solid wire and see if it only goes down about 1 inch, if it goes in more then that you have a hole in the tank
What kind of screws are we talking about here guys....???
just regular sheet metal screws that you had to drill a pilot hole for? Or did you use self-drilling screws that made their own hole?
Im willing to bet that the sheet metal in the cargo area would deform upwards, or strip out, before the tank would get punctured. Its not paper thin... You'd have to really bear down on the screw after it went through the sheet metal. If you did that...then I dont know what to tell ya.
Ide still replace them with some sorta screws, but I HIGHLY doubt you have holes in the tank. If you are worried, do the wire sticking into the hole trick.
J.
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What kind of screws are we talking about here guys....???
just regular sheet metal screws that you had to drill a pilot hole for? Or did you use self-drilling screws that made their own hole?
Im willing to bet that the sheet metal in the cargo area would deform upwards, or strip out, before the tank would get punctured. Its not paper thin... You'd have to really bear down on the screw after it went through the sheet metal. If you did that...then I dont know what to tell ya.
Ide still replace them with some sorta screws, but I HIGHLY doubt you have holes in the tank. If you are worried, do the wire sticking into the hole trick.
J.
I bet im ok. I used sheet metal screws. Had to push pretty hard just to get threw the floor. I changed them to 1/4" screws.
When I put my amps in I just bought some Velcro pads and stuck em to the amp and it grabs the carpet really nicely, you can even set it against the well at an angle and they wont budge. Good alternative.
When I put my amps in I just bought some Velcro pads and stuck em to the amp and it grabs the carpet really nicely, you can even set it against the well at an angle and they wont budge. Good alternative.
That would have been a good idea, but I used screws for security. I have had 4 break in's in the last 3 years, in other cars. One car had the amps screwed to the false floor & they ripped the whole floor out, with the carpet, & took it all.
On this car I put an alarm in, & screwed to the floor, so I will have time to load the shot gun.
That would have been a good idea, but I used screws for security. I have had 4 break in's in the last 3 years, in other cars. One car had the amps screwed to the false floor & they ripped the whole floor out, with the carpet, & took it all.
On this car I put an alarm in, & screwed to the floor, so I will have time to load the shot gun.
Well, just my opinion, but screws arent exactly difficult to take out. If they want your stereo and break in your car, they are getting your stereo.
I have had 4 break in's in the last 3 years, in other cars. One car had the amps screwed to the false floor & they ripped the whole floor out, with the carpet, & took it all.
Why not hide the amps? Under a seat, in the spare tire area, in the lock box area.
You've stated your car has been broken into a few times before so I recommend finding a better spot for the amps instead of the gas tank hump. They're just too visible. Not to mention the tank is too close to think about putting any kind of screw through the sheet metal over it.
Its a bit more work, but why not see how some of the other members around here mounted them inside their back seats? I was able to put two amps in there and still have a completely working seat. Not to mention reducing the eye candy for thieves to look for.
I could hide them, & in a way I did. 5% tint. Can still see in if you cup your hands by the glass to see in, unless the sun hits the window just right. I run my stuff pretty hard, with lots of power, so cooling is an issue when hiding amps.
I mounted my amps, & a few other things right over the tank. I used one inch screws. I know its a bone head thing to do, but its done. I was thinking that one inch would be fine, & I did stay away from the center Where the hoses are. Am I ok?
you are probably ok you have about 3-4 inches betweeen the rear compartment and the tank, at least at the top.
here is a clue - do you smell gas?
i had to bolt in a brace for the rear deck lid cover - and i also had to pull the carpet out to install the new carpet. if you do that you will see a very big gap between the top part of the original spare tire area - on the right side and it goes pretty far. its pretty deep and that is before you get through and into open area between the gas tank and the rear body body.
i dont know how far down he went but if he was near the top he had a good amount of space. cant say about further down but i base this on my actually seeing the space - i had to find out before dirlling. still i did not use screws longer than 1 inch, i did not have to.
i dont have to look at a picture, i look at the real thing.
"thomas you believe because you saw, blessed are they that did not see but still believe."
lol
Maybe you are talking about the vertical wall of the flat tire well? Because there sure isn't 3"-4" on TOP (like you said before "about 3-4 inches betweeen the rear compartment and the tank, at least at the top."
You may not want a pic, but your gonna get one anyways now. I don't want anybody to read your post & think there is that much room. Pics are worth 1000 words.
Maybe you are talking about the vertical wall of the flat tire well? Because there sure isn't 3"-4" on TOP (like you said before "about 3-4 inches betweeen the rear compartment and the tank, at least at the top."
You may not want a pic, but your gonna get one anyways now. I don't want anybody to read your post & think there is that much room. Pics are worth 1000 words.
Your picture puts me at ease. With the longer screws, it would not have put any holes, but it would have been pretty close.
LOL thanks for the encouragement. I got some for ya. Get a v8. Hole in the tank or not u still see me doing this right by ya.
dude i wasnt hating or anything. point is just stop for a second. look at how thick the metal is. why do you think they call them "sheet" metal screws. chill man. wtf does motor size have to do with it? ignorant sonofa...
dude i wasnt hating or anything. point is just stop for a second. look at how thick the metal is. why do you think they call them "sheet" metal screws. chill man. wtf does motor size have to do with it? ignorant sonofa...
Lol. dude. That was a long time ago. Problem solved. But thanks for stirring the pot, again. Not falling for it this time.
what business does a tbi guy have insulting anyone anyway? lol sorry i had to, anyway why not use rivets? thieves need a drill to get them out and there wont be anything pointy to puncture the tank plus they only stick out 1/4"-ish
Actually, rivets (when put in) have like 1" shafts, then are snipped at insertion. So you need the full space behind there, to put the rivets in THEN they end up way shorter.
Actually, rivets (when put in) have like 1" shafts, then are snipped at insertion. So you need the full space behind there, to put the rivets in THEN they end up way shorter.
i dont think ive ever used a pop rivet an inch long, not counting the part that goes in the rivet gun
