Andys 92

Hey guys... Looking for the best battery I usually roll with DieHard's but I keep hearing good things about optima? Any difference there? Also what capacitors do you guys recommend? I'm ruining 2 12's in the back 2 pioneer 6x9 6 way and in the dash I have 2 Infiniti 3 ways with an alpine single Din, 1 4 channel and a 2 channel AmpThanks guys!

devestator_x

iTrader: (1)

Well, I've always been anti-capacitor. To me they are far over-priced for what they do and there are far better ways to solve whatever issue you are trying to solve with it. Generally, people like to use capacitors to "get rid of the dimming lights". But why are the lights dimming? Not enough current in the entire system. Ok, so whats the best way to solve it? I dont think putting in a fast discharging capacitor is the best answer. Lets look at this another way.

Look at your cars electrical as a water supply. The Alternator makes the water, then it flows through the pipes (your wiring) and into the various components. Now the stock alternator actually puts out enough amperage to run a couple of smaller amps (up to 1000 watts) without any big trouble. So why isnt there enough water to fill the demand? First look at the piping. The factory grounds and alternator charging wire are fine for normal use, but when you put a few amps out back that are thirsty, those little straws up front wont flow enough water to feed them fast enough.

Try doing a big 3 wire upgrade first along with a battery upgrade. A good deep cycle battery (either Optima, XS Power, or Kinetic) along with that wire upgrade should solve any dimming issues you might be having.

So why not a capacitor? Well, that one capacitor takes time to recharge (and still puts some strain on the charging system) and costs money to buy. Depending on the size of capacitor you need for your system, it could cost more than the under hood upgrades (which help the entire electrical system, not just the stereo) And, for the price of most capacitors, you could just install a 2nd battery in the rear to help power the system (though I would upgrade under the hood first... again, you need bigger pipes to feed the stuff in the rear first)

A great example of capacitors arent needed in any system is taking a look at Steve Meade's Tahoe. He has 30,000 watts of power running 4 18" subs, powered by 4 or 5 high output alternators. If you look in the back of the truck, there are at least 10 batteries back there, but not a single capacitor. This entire system runs in the 10's of thousands to build and it's not like he doesnt know what he's doing as he is one of the most respected guys in the car audio world at this moment. Just some food for thought.

The Project

iTrader: (6)

I'd go Kinetic over Optima....ditch the cap idea.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/380637457675?...84.m1423.l2649

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

x3. i have bought 4 optimas for things 2 went bad in 3-4 years, one lasted 5.

i have a 800/1000 interstate MT2 in my monte, it was maybe 130-140. i have 1200w total, 2 gauge wire going to the sub amp in the back then splits off a 8g to the other amp. stock alt, no second battery, very rarely do i have any dimming.

plum92_camaro

good info here except from the OP. How much power you running?

I second the kinetik recommendation. Also look at Powermaster batteries, i can't remember which line of power masters work for car audio. Optimas are superior to traditional batteries and the yellow top is good but if i remember correctly their charge/discharge rate is to slow for car audio.

Iraggi alternators and Powermaster's alternators are good. Usually $200-$250.

this would be a good secondary battery to run. http://www.woofersetc.com/p-4575-hc6...ower-cell.aspx

Hopefully someone a little more knowledgeable could elaborate on how a traditional battery or even an optima can effect the performance of a good battery like the Kinetik when linked together.

Upgrading the big 3 is super easy. Do it!! There are no reasons not to no matter what your powering.

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

you dont leave them connected while off. get a continuous duty solenoid activated by a key on source and it will charge from the alt but disconnect when the engine is off. this is the safe way. connecting two different batteries together directly is not safe. wont bore anybody with the long technical reason

devestator_x

iTrader: (1)

I agree with what JW says, sometimes they are called Battery Isolators and it's the best way to connect a secondary power source.