CarburetorsCarb discussion and questions. Upgrading a Third Gen carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.
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Just put a heat shield underneith the carb, and figured I'd snap a few pictures. Edelbrock Performer 600CFM EC on top of a GM ZZ4 manifold. Mallory Billet HEI distibutor, Accel 8mm wires that are way to long, and a few jerry-rigged items if you look hard enough Can you notice what parts are new and what parts are old? haha!
__________________ 86 Iroc / mild cam / carbed 350 crate
less = more
mw66nova, I know its a old Holley 650, not sure on what model it is I aslo have a Edelbrock Performer intake to put on it, just have not got around to doing it
Originally posted by jksstar mw66nova, I know its a old Holley 650, not sure on what model it is
It's a Holley 4010 I believe. They made them to compete with Edelbrock's Performer carbs, but they never caught on. They stopped making them in '98 I think. Supposed to be capable carbs in comparison to their more known 4150/4160 brethren, but never were taken seriously.
Thanks. Yeah, I made it myself. It didn't take long and was very cheap. I just bought a another aircleaner setup from a junkyard for around $25. I cut a hole in the original aircleaner and put the extra snorkel on it. Next, I just flipped the tubing and scoop upside-down. Then I cut up the scoop to make it look like the correct one for the passenger side.
When I was done, I was very happy with it. Although, the new snorkel hit the top of the emission tubing, so I had to remove that stuff. Also, the coolant bottle was in the way of the new tubing, so the bottle is now sitting in the corner until I figure out what I want to do with it.
Good job calebzman, looks like it came from the factory that way. I had that same mod planned myself until I finally found an original dual snorkel setup that did not break the bank.
__________________ 85 Trans Am
71 Firebird (undergoing restification)
87 Trans Am (ongoing Father/Son project)
Here's the new 350. The main visible changes since when this pic was taken a few months back are a new coil and new Jacobs ignition wires. I swear the engine does look nice underneath all that emissions crap!
Here's my '88 GTA Street Sleeper posing as a '86 305.
Looks just like stock, huh? (actually very hard to do)
All the HP in the world ain't worth beans if nobody will race you.
350+HP/350, the work is inside the motor.
(here *****, *****...)
Better pic of the engine.
Specs:
Bear in mind this is a "street" engine (actually harder to build than a strip motor, it has to last).
Engine is blueprinted after the 350/350 L46 GM made in 1969 only.
Block: 2 bolt main 350 block seasoned, standard bore from 72 or 74 camaro.
Crank: Cast, mains .010 undersize.
Rods: stock, selected from 16 proof tested
Oil pump: Stock new replacement.
Pistons: TRW LF2304 forged 11:1 with moly rings. (I paid $249.00 for these in 1984)
Cam: Isky 280 HL. duration 280` at 0 lift. 224` duration at .050 lift. valve lift with 1.5 rockers: .465 intake & exhaust. lobe center: 108` (a little hotter than the L46 but very close).
Lifters: Isky 202-HY anti-pump-up.
Cylinder heads: 64cc "462" heads from '68 327/300 (called "camel-hump") 1.92 intake 1.5 exhaust fully ported. (will outflow stock 2.02's)
Cylinder head gaskets: GM steel shim type (very important)
Valves: Stock.
Valve springs: Isky 6005 double springs 1.430" OD.
Retainers: Isky 507-STA (installed spring height .063 above stock).
Rockers: Stock 1.5 with pressed in studs.
Intake: Factory aluminum q-jet manifold.
Carburetor: 750 Quadrajet (most all are 650s)
Distributor: Stock HEI from 72-74 with adjustable vacuum advance and spring & weight kit from Jegs. (has been run to 6700)
Spark plugs: Champion RJ12YC gap: .035
Starter: Delco double-shunt from 454 (I rebuilt)
Oh, I almost forgot. This is a list of parts. I did not simply bolt them together. The list of the work I did TO them is about as long, yes it runs on 93 Amoco with lead substitute.
More pics and a video/audio: http://home.mindspring.com/~andywarren/id3.html
Last edited by Supervisor42; 08-11-2005 at 10:24 PM.
Here's mine, almost done. It's sitting on the dyno now. Short rod 383, eagle crank rods, custom pistons, AFR 195's, custom ISKY cam, Air Gap intake. Shooting for around 450 at the flywheel.
[quote]Originally posted by NastyL98_T/A
[b]Here's mine, almost done. It's sitting on the dyno now. Short rod 383, eagle crank rods, custom pistons, AFR 195's, custom ISKY cam, Air Gap intake. Shooting for around 450 at the flywheel.
Smart man. Short rod 383 is gonna run great, everyone thinks a long rod 383 is the s**t but trust me you have just a good rod angle on a 5.7 rod
__________________
9:1 compression 408, 1.29 60ft, 5.89 on 225
Originally posted by NastyL98_T/A Here's mine, almost done. It's sitting on the dyno now. Short rod 383, eagle crank rods, custom pistons, AFR 195's, custom ISKY cam, Air Gap intake. Shooting for around 450 at the flywheel.
Smart man. Short rod 383 is gonna run great, everyone thinks a long rod 383 is the s**t but trust me you have just a good rod angle on a 5.7 rod
5.7 aint bad...but 6 is better, if you could explain to me why it would not be id be more than happy to listen.
It's actually shorter than a 5.7. The shorter rod 383 will make more torque down low. 6" rod will spin a little bit higher and make better peak torque. It's all about having the right combination for what you want to do with the car.
If you see any gains im sure theyd be minimal, hell id expect a longer rod to put out more just because of it staying at TDC and BDC longer. Once again minmal. Only real reason i went with a 6" rod is it should put less load on the cylinder walls because of the angle. Now once again shorter or longer power wise id have to say gains would be minimal with which ever combination you choose, shorter one might be able to spin up faster just because of the less weight of the rod...but then again your pistons probably weigh more. None the less which ever you chose stroke will still be the same weather you have a 1" rod or a 100" rod.