ok so my car wasn't moving like it once did, so i did the AV tension setting from the Tech articles and i got it to where they were loose but still being pulled closed instead of falling shut on it's own. it was amazing how it accelerated now. but i thought i'd try and get it a little better, but it would always either fall open or pull shut, so i got it as close as "falling" shut as i could, now my car doesn't accel as good and it's shifting at like 5500 WOT and the 1st setting it was 5000 and b4 i did anything it was 45-4800....i didn't touch the TV cable at all....can someone help me out... also how am i supposed to turn the screw until it falls open when the screw driver stops it from moving?? (same with it falling shut)

You loosen the set screw, underneath; let the valve go completely loose; slowly turn the screw in the end of the shaft clockwise, until it just barely holds the air valve closed; then tighten it about 5/8 turn more. Then tighten the set screw on the adjuster screw, while holding the adjuster at that point, to lock it in that place.

sounds like a 2 person job . the dam set screw is a PITA to get to while doing everything else

ok so i tried it again...it seems no matter how loose i let the tension go, it never opens the AV. it alsways satys shut. but if i let it go alway then open it by hand then it stays open. one thing is that i never relized that green rod thing holds the AV shut while i car is running, bcuz i was making it so the tension would pull it shut all the way when i don't have to, right??

The tension should pull it shut, at all times. The green rod is in addition to that.

You will never see the air valve open, if the motor isn't loaded (in gear, high RPM, pulling the car).

Once you figure out how to do it, you'll find it's quite easy and natural, and strictly a 1-person job. You stick a screwdriver in the slot, loosen the set screw, put the allen wrench down, make whatever adjustment, test it with the hand that used to be holding the wrench, pick the wrench back up, tighten it down, put the air cleaner back on, & drive it.

Just adjust it as I described, such that it goes completely limp; then tighten it until it just barely holds the AV closed; then 5/8 turn more, and lock it down with the lock screw. Then test drive it, by flooring it at about 2500 RPM in 3rd gear. If it blows out black smoke when the secondaries open, back the tension off 1/8 turn, and try again; if it bogs when they open, add 1/8 turn more, and try it again. Don't try to outsmart yourself; just set it like it belongs, and see how it works, and go from there.

it also might help to take off the choke pull off valve. Its the thing that is attached to the little rod that goes to the AV linkage. That way it wont get in the way nad its only like 2 screws and a vacuum line.

how many turns should it take for the av to flop open?

I have a monster bog after the 1-2 shift at WOT. I cannot seem to adjust my AV correctly. How can I tell if I have the tension too tight versus too loose. The car shifts, then flat bog, then hiccup, then bog, then goes.

I want to ghost ride this thing off a cliff!

Bog only happens when the secondaries open. If you've got an automatic transmission, then this isn't bog.

If this is a manual transmission, check your choke pull-off with a vacuum pump. It should pull in and hold with vacuum. If the diaphragm has a small leak, it may pull in and stay pulled in with the constantly renewed vacuum source, but will be releasing too soon.

I have a 700r4. Hmm... I did not have the bog prior to adjusting the AV and replacing the TPS. Unfortunately, I did both at the same time so I am unclear of which caused the issue.

What else could cuase this with the automatic?

I dont mean to highjack but where exactly is the set screw? knowing me ive probably stared right at it and didnt see it. haha