Why does my Holley DP carb leak gas?
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28 5.7 G92
Engine: L98 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi G80
Why does my Holley DP carb leak gas?
Everytime I stop and let my car set for a while, and come back there is gas on the intake right under the secondary pump cam. It just puddles there. It is not that much but It bugs me. My Floats are adjusted and the carb is tightened down. It never did this when I bought it new. Could it be all my jet changes have killed my blue fuel bowl gaskets? Does anyone else have this problem of a leaky holley? What can I check?
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Car: 84 camaro Z28
Engine: 434sbc
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: moser 9" with 411 posi
make sure that the fuel rail is tight at the connections, make sure the fuel bowl is tight as well as the accelerator pump. or like mention, it time for a rebuild.
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28 5.7 G92
Engine: L98 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi G80
Rebuild!? The carb has like 2000 miles on it and it is only 4 months old.I also bought it brand new. I am getting the Profrom main body this week with all new gaskets, so that should help, if not I will be whinning about it here. Thanks for the replies.
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Car: '82 Camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH-350
Well if you are going to be changing things over with the new body this may be moot, but on Holley's you need to retorque the fuel bowl screws after a little while. heavy_chevy29 touched on that. It would just take a second to check. Good luck.
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Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Retorque the bowl bolts, check to se if the pump cover is still snug, but try to find exactly where the leak is coming from. Soemtimes gas has a funny way of leaking from one place but makes it appear it's leaking from another place.
If you've done alot of jetting changes, it's possible the old gasket maybe be weak of fatigued in one spot and bowl gaskets are cheap enough it would'nt hurt to change them, just to change them. But if you've got a new main body coming them you'll take care of it anyways.
If you've done alot of jetting changes, it's possible the old gasket maybe be weak of fatigued in one spot and bowl gaskets are cheap enough it would'nt hurt to change them, just to change them. But if you've got a new main body coming them you'll take care of it anyways.
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
In recent years I've had 2 Holleys (VS & DP), and converted the DP to the Proform mainbody. I haven't had leakage problems with any of them.
Check for cracked parts when you put in the Proform. Otherwise, most likely gaskets.
Here's another tip for those who do frequent jet changes: Take a bowl screw with you to Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, etc. Get nylon flat washers to fit the screw. Won't leak, won't tear, won't leave half on the bowl and half on the screw head.
Check for cracked parts when you put in the Proform. Otherwise, most likely gaskets.
Here's another tip for those who do frequent jet changes: Take a bowl screw with you to Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, etc. Get nylon flat washers to fit the screw. Won't leak, won't tear, won't leave half on the bowl and half on the screw head.
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Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Also for frequent jet changes, be prepared to strip the main body threads Little overzelious with the nut driver between rounds with a huge air change and I ended up stripping on, luckily on the top of the front bowl.
Got home and ordered a heli-coil kit and installed them in all 8 holes so I'd never have to worry about it again. Expensive for the kit $50, but I guess now I have peice of mind of never stripping the holes out again. Lesson: just snug them, not tightned like it's a lug nut LOL.
All of the newer HP carbs come shipped with the blue metering block gaskets/bowl gaskets as well as nylon/teflon washers behind the bowl bolt head.
Got home and ordered a heli-coil kit and installed them in all 8 holes so I'd never have to worry about it again. Expensive for the kit $50, but I guess now I have peice of mind of never stripping the holes out again. Lesson: just snug them, not tightned like it's a lug nut LOL.
All of the newer HP carbs come shipped with the blue metering block gaskets/bowl gaskets as well as nylon/teflon washers behind the bowl bolt head.
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Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 ci TPI, 10:1 cr, Isky cam, ported heads, dual exhaust
Transmission: 700R4, ratchetting shifter, 3.23 rear
Depends what kind of a double pumper. Side hung or center hung float style? The side hung has a 1/4" tube between the primary and secondary float bowls, with o-rings on each end. Could easily be a damaged o-ring.
If it's a center hung type, you might have a torn diaphram on the accelerator pump. You wouldn't need a complete rebuild. Drain the float bowl, pull it off, and check it out. It's not hard.
If it's a center hung type, you might have a torn diaphram on the accelerator pump. You wouldn't need a complete rebuild. Drain the float bowl, pull it off, and check it out. It's not hard.
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28 5.7 G92
Engine: L98 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi G80
Yeah I did frequent jet changes. I finished the main body conversion and I found that my bowl gaskets had seen better days. My 650 was a 4777-7 so it came with blue gaskets, but the old paper screw bowl gaskets. The Proform main body came with all new gaskets including nylon bowl gaskets.
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by GASGZLR
The Proform main body came with all new gaskets including nylon bowl gaskets.
The Proform main body came with all new gaskets including nylon bowl gaskets.
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