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08-23-2005, 11:27 AM
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#1 | | Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sheppard AFB, TX
Posts: 1,995
Car: 1992 Firebird Engine: forged 357 Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp) | anyone who is afraid of EFI-to-carb swap I would just like to let you all know that I get 17 miles per gallon with my built 350 in average city/highway combo driving. Yeah, I have 2.73 gears, which makes a difference, but I am getting nearly the same mileage as my old 305 TBI got. I have a higher stall converter, also. You can see all of my mods in the signature. Just wanted to let you all know.
About 13-15mpg strictly city, and about 20-22 mostly highway (no lockup switch)
Also, I noticed an increase of 1mpg when I switched from standard 10w40 to Mobil 1 10w30.
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08-23-2005, 01:19 PM
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#2 | | Banned
Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: 7th layer of Hell
Posts: 5
Car: 92 Camaro RS Engine: ZZ4 Crate Engine Transmission: 700R4 w/shiftkit and 3k stall | I actually used to get 25+ mpg highway w/ my 305 TBI and 3.23s. Now I get ~21mpg w/a 350. You might have had something wrong w/your old setup if you only managed 21mpg.
BTW I got about 21mpg w/3.23s and now 20.5 mpg with 3.73s on the highway. If I were you I'd get 3.73s  |
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08-23-2005, 05:30 PM
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#3 | | Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sheppard AFB, TX
Posts: 1,995
Car: 1992 Firebird Engine: forged 357 Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp) | Quote: Originally posted by EPAisGAY I actually used to get 25+ mpg highway w/ my 305 TBI and 3.23s. Now I get ~21mpg w/a 350. You might have had something wrong w/your old setup if you only managed 21mpg.
BTW I got about 21mpg w/3.23s and now 20.5 mpg with 3.73s on the highway. If I were you I'd get 3.73s | When I can afford it.
<--- college kid living on his own, working for $7/hr  |
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08-24-2005, 09:45 PM
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#4 | | Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Akron, NY
Posts: 6
Car: 91 RS Engine: 305 TBI -> 350 TBI Transmission: TH700R4 | I have a 305 TBI right now with 3.23, stock th700r4. high flow exhaust and cold air intake, and i get like 22 average driving, and like 25+ highway, looking to do 350 tbi swap now.  |
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08-25-2005, 11:40 AM
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#5 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Macon, GA
Posts: 7,895
Car: camaro sportcoupe Engine: 3.766"x3.48" 10.2:1 230*/230*@.050" Transmission: red neck performance th350 Axle/Gears: Moser9" with 4.56's and a spool | my 310/700r4 w/ lockup/4.10 rear with the old holley 600cfm vaccuum secondary netted me consistant 22mpg on the highway. about 15 in town. WAY better than todays big SUV's! |
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08-25-2005, 05:20 PM
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#6 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 4,833
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy Engine: 305 TPI Transmission: 4L60 Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears | My TBI 305 (well really 312) with a 700r4 w/2,000 stall, and 3.08 gears gets 17-19 city and 22-24 on the highway. This is in a 5,000+ lbs G20.
__________________ 305 Vortec shortblock, bored .030", balanced, blueprinted, flattop pistons, total seal rings, ported 059 vortecs, Custom Reed Grind Hydraulic Roller Cam, Doug Thorley Tri-Ys, 2 1/2" exhaust, SDPC Vortec TPI base (ported), Siamesed, Ported SLP runners, Modified stock plenum and stock 46mm TB, 24# LT1 injectors, AFPR @ 50 psi, 7730 running S-AUJP V4, 2,800 rpm stalled 700r4, 3.08 gears, P295/50/R17 tires. |
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08-25-2005, 08:14 PM
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#7 | | Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sheppard AFB, TX
Posts: 1,995
Car: 1992 Firebird Engine: forged 357 Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp) | Quote: Originally posted by zoomzoom26 I have a 305 TBI right now with 3.23, stock th700r4. high flow exhaust and cold air intake, and i get like 22 average driving, and like 25+ highway, looking to do 350 tbi swap now. |  |
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09-04-2005, 01:51 AM
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#8 | | TGO Supporter
Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: ready room
Posts: 2,069
Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ) Engine: impulse drive Transmission: fusion reactors Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew | LOL, my setup nets me 9/10 mpg.......and I love it!!!  |
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09-04-2005, 05:40 PM
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#9 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Arab, Alabama
Posts: 1,247
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA Engine: 350 4BBL Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: 3.27 | Token:
I really enjoyed your audio clips in your sig. "Exhaust clips: idling (130k) revving (100k) lopey! (160k)" Thought I'd share mine: Idling and reving (4mb)... and yes, that is a quadrajet.
Specs for the engine are in my post on this page.
Haven't gotten around to checking the mileage yet (keep doing WOT blasts) but I think it isn't going to be too good...
Last edited by Supervisor42 : 01-21-2006 at 09:53 AM.
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09-10-2005, 05:02 PM
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#10 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: webster
Posts: 258
Car: 1991 Formula Engine: 5.7 Transmission: 700R4 | FUEL PUMP What did you do about your higher pressure stock fuel pump when you switched to carb on your L98? i really don't wanna pull mine out and i'm looking for alternatives. i tryed turning it off and using a 4psi pump further down the line but that didn't work cause the new pump couldn't pull fuel past the old one. so can i leave my stock pump in and maybe get a fuel pressure regulator to turn it down a whole bunch? |
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09-10-2005, 05:13 PM
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#11 | | Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sheppard AFB, TX
Posts: 1,995
Car: 1992 Firebird Engine: forged 357 Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp) | Re: FUEL PUMP Quote: Originally posted by specvgini What did you do about your higher pressure stock fuel pump when you switched to carb on your L98? i really don't wanna pull mine out and i'm looking for alternatives. i tryed turning it off and using a 4psi pump further down the line but that didn't work cause the new pump couldn't pull fuel past the old one. so can i leave my stock pump in and maybe get a fuel pressure regulator to turn it down a whole bunch? |  |
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09-10-2005, 05:49 PM
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#12 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: webster
Posts: 258
Car: 1991 Formula Engine: 5.7 Transmission: 700R4 | nice. you have a part number? is that just a standard fuel pressure regulator? how much did it cost you? |
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09-11-2005, 03:58 PM
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#13 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sharon,Ontario
Posts: 432
Car: 85' Z28 Engine: 383 Transmission: TH350 Axle/Gears: Richmond 4.10's | I'm guessing that is more expensive then this one from holley, it was $75 Cad http://www.holley.com/products.asp?product=12-803BP .They aren't a standard regulator, being that it has to have a return line. A lot of them out there are just one in, and two regulated outs. You need one in, one regulated out, and one just out. |
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09-11-2005, 04:13 PM
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#14 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: webster
Posts: 258
Car: 1991 Formula Engine: 5.7 Transmission: 700R4 | so i'll be using my return line in my car then? also how about the computer? will the stock pump work without it? |
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09-11-2005, 07:42 PM
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#15 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sharon,Ontario
Posts: 432
Car: 85' Z28 Engine: 383 Transmission: TH350 Axle/Gears: Richmond 4.10's | Yea you will have two fuel lines buy the drivers side fender well. One will be 1/2". the other 3/8" I beleive. It was awhile ago, but I think the larger one was the return  The regulator is all marked, just don't overtighten the lines in. I just took the regulator and lines to Brafasco and Cummins hydraulics, and they made everything I needed with all the fittings for me for like $20. Things may be a little different for you, but I just took out ALL the wiring from the passenger side, including all the wires to the ecm. The fuel pump will not work, I just wired mine to a switch that I put in the ash tray (no one ever smokes in my car, ever). This is very easy since the wiring for the fuel pump is right behind the back seat if you lift the carpet. I beleive the pink wire was power, but use a test light to make sure . The best way would be to wire to a oil pressure switch, but this way if someone steals my car they won't get very far  Also, depending on year you may need to grab a vss box from a wrecker to get your speedo working correctly.
Last edited by 85z28guy : 09-11-2005 at 07:44 PM.
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09-15-2005, 02:17 PM
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#16 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: webster
Posts: 258
Car: 1991 Formula Engine: 5.7 Transmission: 700R4 | ok i just got back from my local car shop. they are prett reputable, and the guy there said that going that rout wouldn't be good because the fuel pump will burn out.. i've been trying to figure this out for a long time now and all signs keep pointing tords pulling the damn pump out. so i'm gonna just do it and get it done. now my question is whats the process of bypassing the old pump? just a straight hose? |
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09-15-2005, 07:57 PM
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#17 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Severn, MD.
Posts: 1,301
Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A Engine: LB9/383 Transmission: T5/700R4 | It will work, but the right way is to get an external electric pump. Not to mention the stock pump flows enough for 240 hp.. |
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09-16-2005, 08:37 AM
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#18 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Dixon IL
Posts: 809
Car: 1987 TransAm w/T-Tops Engine: 355 Transmission: TH700R4 Axle/Gears: 3:73/7.5 10 bolt | Is the intank pump on the q-jet equipped 3rdgens the same as the tbi pump? I am asking because I replaced my mechanical pump with a Carter OEM replacement fuel pump, and I chucked the CC q-jet in favor of a q-jet from a 78 Z28.
It was running OK till I hooked the power to the fuel pump back up. Now its rich enough to melt your eyes out.
I have checked the return line to make sure it wasn't plugged. It was OK.
__________________ <<<I don't have Attention Deficit Disorder, every body else has Attention Surplus disorder.>>> |
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09-16-2005, 10:04 AM
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#19 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Iowa
Posts: 499
Car: 1991 Z24 Engine: 3.5 MPFI Transmission: Muncie HM282 Axle/Gears: 3.61-LSD | i got like 8 mpg in the city and about 10-12 on the highway with my old roller 355... 
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1991 Z24 Cavalier 5 spd; P&P'd 3500 MPFI swap, BIG cam, stage 3 clutch, EQ/LT-headers, UDP other misc bolt-ons. |
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09-16-2005, 11:26 AM
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#20 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 4,231
Car: 89 Formula Firebird Engine: 305 - Demon 525 Transmission: 700R4 | Quote: Originally posted by Token When I can afford it.
<--- college kid living on his own, working for $7/hr | yea.. and when gas is 7 dollars a gallon... lol Anyway, go work for a parts store if you have an interest in cars. They need younger people with a will to learn rather then old dogs that cant learn new tricks. Check the vendor review board for details. OR! if you know computers, get a tech job that starts at 11+hr with no experience.
For the topic, my 305 got 20mpg when I did a carb swap. But yea, the 650 is to much for it, even with smaller jets. Its all I got and I'm replacing the engine before I replace the carb! |
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09-21-2005, 04:48 PM
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#21 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: webster
Posts: 258
Car: 1991 Formula Engine: 5.7 Transmission: 700R4 | Ok i'm still freakin lost about this whole switch over. i'm reading what u guys post and what ppl tell me around town and everything contradicts eachother. this is what i've gathered:
By removing the intank pump and ecu i won't have gauges that work properly.
If i geet a pressure regulator and keep the stock pump i was told that would burn the pump out.
And i can't leave the in tank one in and run another down the line and simply turn off the intank...
i would like to do this the way its supposed to be done. and everyone says thats to remove the intank pump. well then how do i get the gauges to work correctly without using the ecm? cause the whole point is to get rid of all that. my main question is do i need a completely different sending unit or something from a carbed car? i donb't under stand how the intank pump is bypassed... |
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09-21-2005, 05:02 PM
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#22 | | Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Littleton, CO USA
Posts: 27,647
Car: 82 Berlinetta(2)/57 Bel Air Engine: 86 LG4-> ZZ3(LS1)/mild 396 Transmission: TH700(T56)/TH400 Axle/Gears: 3.23(4.10)/3.73 | You're taking what has been stated that was wrong and corrected by others as the facts, in most cases.
- The gages don't feed through the computer. No effect.
- If you keep the in-tank pump operating, you need a regulator that includes a built-in return, i.e., that regulates pressure by returning excess flow to the tank. That type of reg will maintain a constant flow through the in-tank pump, keeping it cool and keeping it from burning out.
- At least you got one out of 3 right, which is acceptable in baseball. Although some have reported leaving the in-tank in and unpowered without problems, the wise course is to remove it if you aren't going to use it (use it or lose it, you know).
- To by-pass the in-tank, remove the sending unit, remove the electric pump from the sending unit, add line to extend the pick-up tube down to where the in-tank pickup was, put a pick-up strainer on it, reinstall the sending unit. |
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09-21-2005, 05:02 PM
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#23 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sharon,Ontario
Posts: 432
Car: 85' Z28 Engine: 383 Transmission: TH350 Axle/Gears: Richmond 4.10's | Gas gauge is not ecm controlled, atleast my 85' wasn't. Fuel pressure is a sender, just keep the old one. Tach will work. Coolant will work if you keep the sender. Voltmeter will work. Only problem you may run into is needing the vss for your speedo, try it and find out. The thing about removing the pump or not is personal opinon. I have seen A LOT of people do it, and not seen one fail. In fact, a discussed it with a couple mechanics and they said it seemed like a good idea. Its up to you if you think its "right" or not. And no, I would never cut a hole in my trunk to get to the sender  |
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09-21-2005, 05:05 PM
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#24 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: webster
Posts: 258
Car: 1991 Formula Engine: 5.7 Transmission: 700R4 | i'm in the process now of removing it its just a tremendous pain in the ***. now what your saying has been done a million times i would imagine so i'll take your word for it. thanks |
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09-21-2005, 10:54 PM
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#25 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Iowa
Posts: 499
Car: 1991 Z24 Engine: 3.5 MPFI Transmission: Muncie HM282 Axle/Gears: 3.61-LSD | mine still has the in tank pump, i've been running a mechanical on the engine sucking through it for 5K miles without any problems...
i just don't have the time to drop the tank.. it looks miserable on these cars 
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1991 Z24 Cavalier 5 spd; P&P'd 3500 MPFI swap, BIG cam, stage 3 clutch, EQ/LT-headers, UDP other misc bolt-ons. |
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09-23-2005, 05:23 PM
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#26 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: webster
Posts: 258
Car: 1991 Formula Engine: 5.7 Transmission: 700R4 | its terrible |
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09-23-2005, 06:41 PM
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#27 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Iowa
Posts: 499
Car: 1991 Z24 Engine: 3.5 MPFI Transmission: Muncie HM282 Axle/Gears: 3.61-LSD | Quote: Originally posted by specvgini its terrible | well.. since it's not going anywhere untill next spring i might give it a try.. but i have a feeling that my dual exhaust is gonna get in the way 
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1991 Z24 Cavalier 5 spd; P&P'd 3500 MPFI swap, BIG cam, stage 3 clutch, EQ/LT-headers, UDP other misc bolt-ons. |
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10-11-2005, 05:44 PM
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#28 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Cary, North Carolina
Posts: 1,428
Car: 1990 RS, 1992 RS Engine: 305 TBI LO3, Carbed 350 | | | |