For the background, see http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ca...e-before.html? (Somebody stop me before I do something contrary!) One thing that had held me back was the discovery upon further inspection that the carb had been dropped, deforming the choke tower, which was binding the choke butterfly shaft. I figured I'd have to remove the butterfly and shaft, which involves removing staked screws, but when we had the rest of it apart, I was able to give the shaft a few taps from the inside to round out the hole again. Moves freely now, didn't even leave a mark. Whew! Still haven't decided whether to go with vacuum/mechanical HEI, or external TPS. I'm leaning toward the latter. Choke set-up is still an issue, going to try to find a divorced electric conversion that will bolt to an EGR manifold (wish me luck). My son is really pushing for this. I think he wants to go faster (well, it's probably more likely that I've convinced him with my talk that it would be more consistent). Oh, one "interesting" discovery - the primary jets are marked "209", secondary 83. Per Holley's website, the primaries should be "602" and secondary 83. At first I thought I had read the "209" upside down, but we looked and looked at both of them very carefully, and they are definitely stamped 209. Not sure what size that corresponds to, but one eBay site selling rebuilts said it had primary 60 and secondary 83 jets. I would guess "602" is "60" with whatever the last "2" means.

Good thing you got that issue hammered out before you decided to ditch it for something else. At what point was the carb dropped and why did the butterflies decide to stick at that moment?

I know what it's like to run an embarrassing ET thanks to a malfunction like that. It sucks because the casual spectator just thinks "wow, what's this p.o.s. doing here?" But at least you know that it was an issue unrelated to the overall performance of your car, and you have the pride of knowing you fixed the issue yourself.

As far as the choke, what is stopping you from doing a manual choke? It's more convenient in my opinion.

It was dropped before it was packed, and judging from the ding, it had been awhile. The butterfly wasn't frozen, but didn't move freely like it needed to. There were actually 2 points hanging up - the choke tower itself was slightly bent, so that the butterfly hit it (that was simple to fix); and the shaft bushing was smashed down, which was the bigger problem and what the love-taps fixed.

The mechanism itself doesn't lend itself well to a cable - the travel doesn't allow for the linear motion required by the cable. A bolt-on bracket may make it possible, but even the Holley website says it isn't intended for manual operation.

What intake will this be on?

It's usually not too hard to get a choke to work on one of those.

Incidentally, the "2" after the jet size means "close tolerance". Nothing real critical, in terms of what to do to calibrate it. Mostly those are used in emissions-era carbs. Sounds like you have a relatively late-model 6210.

Currently planned for the GMPP ZZ3/4 EGR q-jet intake. No choke thermostat pad on it. I'd like to go with an RPM q-jet (not Air Gap), but haven't been able to justify a new one in my mind yet (or find one on eBay - well, I've found them, but haven't won one yet).

I'm going to call the outfit that offers electric choke conversions and see if we can work something out. If not, I'll have to look into a cable and fabricate a lever to attach to the existing choke mechanism.

It's a -3. The primary jets are a little different looking, with a "stepped" look to the orifice. Not sure how that is any better than the standard, probably just the hole itself. I figured the last digit indicated some sort of special status, but you'd think they could at least stamp it correctly.

IIRC there's a little triangular sort of thing that bolts onto that intake on the pass side, right under the carb pad. It has a level surface, parallel to the carb pad, on top of it; with a screw hole and another little hole. It's been awhile since I looked at one of those but I seem to remember it having that. If yours does, then you're in luck.

Then, if your carb has the kind of linkage on it that has 2 arms, one that would move CW (downwards) to close the choke and one that would move CCW (up), then all you have to do is to get the choke stat for a 70s 2-barrel carb (something like a 74 Impala 350 2-bbl), which pushes up to close the choke; and make a link out of coat hanger wire or something, to go between the stat and the CCW linkage hole. The link will be sort of Z-shaped with extra littlel bends on the ends to hook to the stat and the carb. Use one of those horseshoe clips that you squeeze shut, to retain the lnk to the carb.

The only triangle in that area is the EGR port. There is also a rectangular port for the hot air choke (or EGR gas inlet, if using the early HO Camaro Conversion Kit). Neither of those are parallel to the carb mount. The divorced choke pads that I am familiar with were either a flat rectangular pad with a blank hole for a locating pin and a tapped hole for the mount screw; or a little well with a tapped hole. So, no luck.

That's the kind of linkage, and if I could mount a divorced thermostat, that's what would work. But, there wouldn't be a heat source, so whatever it is has to be electric.

The problem with a choke cable going to either of those arms is going from full open to full closed crosses the horizontal plane of the mechanism shaft - that don't work good with a cable that push/pulls horizontally.

This is what you need, right here.

Hmmm, never before seen nor heard of that.

Any clue on a source?

Edelbrock...

Comes in the box with a Performer intake (which is what the one in the pic is); same part fits the ZZ intakes.

You can probably pick one up down at your local speed shop for near nothing.

"Near nothing" = $15 at my local speed shop.

The thermostat pushes to close, which is the front arm. May have to do some creative rod bending.

It is a 602... trust me. Run some small gague drill bits through it on a go/no-go basis and you'll find it's very close to .060". The close tolerance jets use either a 1, 2 or 3 on the end to indicate if they are on the low end, middle of the range or high end for flow in that size range. The orifice may vary slightly from .060 but it'll flow exactly the same as a "perfect 60." The tapered entrance and exit angles on either side of the restriction point also indicate "close tolerance" jets.

Important.... no. Anything reasonably close will run well. Just one of those weird things that Holley did back in the day.

And if you ever tell anyone that I know anything about Holley carbs I will deny it and call you crazy. Our little secret, OK?

I'd still see about converting to electric- lots easier to set up than a divorced choke element and easily transportable from intake to intake when you're done.

I believe you. I just can't believe they were so sloppy stamping "precision" jets.

Your secret is safe with me.

HEY, EVERYBODY, GUESS WHAT? DAMAN KNOWS ABOUT . . .

The only thing available for the 6210 is divorced choke. The VS 9895 model 4175 has electric choke, but the main body is cast differently and its choke doesn't fit the 6210 (from what I've been able to ascertain).

I was wrong, the thermostat pulls to close, the rear arm.

The external TPS is on the way. Only thing left is the throttle cable stud - may fabricate if I can't find the "real" piece.