Ok this is gonna be a long post so I am apologizing now....SORRY!!! Ok, the first engine that I built for my camaro(R.I.P) was a 350 with the Edelbrock Performer RPM package designed for 420HP. The engine is gone but I now have a decent runner in there. I built a 383 stroker that I modeled off of AFR's website. The basic specs for the engine were... 383 stroker 9.5:1 compression 93 octane Edelbrock Performer RPM intake Holley 750 DP MSD Ignition 36 degrees timing COMP cams Hyd Roller 12-433-8(which is .520/.540@236/242 110 LSA 106 IC) Air Flow Research SBC street 195 aluminum cylinder heads This engine makes 503HP at 5500 RPM and 517 TQ at 4500 RPM My engine is 383 obviously but has 10.2:1 compression, I am using the COMP camshaft above, the AFR SBC 195 heads, Performer RPM Air Gap manifold, full MSD ignition with 36 degrees total timing at 3000 RPM, but I have the 750 CFM manual choke Edelbrock carb on there. I built the engine to the tee EXCEPT for the carb. Everyone and I mean EVERYONE that I talk to says that the Edelbrock is holding me back and that I am not getting full power potential out of the engine. Honestly, I don't feel that the engine has 500 HP. It feels more like 450HP which may be due to the fact that the Edelbrock carb that I have on there now was designed to run a 420 HP 350. So is it possible that it is causing a restriction? Would I get better performance, driveability with the Holley 750 DP on there? I welcome any and all opinions and suggestons. Thanks for your time.

This isn't a direct answer to your question, but you might find the discussion in this thread interesting: http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ca...carb-carb.html (A carb is a carb is a carb)

Good info there...thank you. It does seem though that what everyone else is saying is true about making more power with the Holley. I really don't want to condemn it yet though seeing as how I haven't gotten the engine tuned yet. There aren't many shops down here in FL that have the ability or want to dyno tune a carb'd car. Mostly everyone that does tuning work with EFI cars only, which makes it tough. My next line of defence is going to be to get 2 autometer wideband a/f ratio sensors kiits and have o2 sensor bungs welded into the ehaust tubing that is just after my header collector tube. That way, I can at least read my a/f ratios at idle, part throttle, cruise and WOT. Hpefully I can get it close to 14:1 at idle and part throttle, 15:1 at light cruise, and 12.5:1 at WOT. Maybe see if some power comes out if it, otherwise, Holley 750 DP here I come!!!!

dp will be worth .2 alone I'd imagine

First of all, don't take any "dyno" numbers off a manufacturers website as gospel. They have ways of tweaking those numbers that still may seem to be legit, but not realistic in the real world.

Second, just because you have the same components as what was used on the AFR dyno numbers, maybe your engine wasn't prepped "as good" as theirs which could cause some friction loss, etc. There's too many variables. And to say that it "feels more like 450HP instead of 500HP" is kinda unrealistic unless you're a professional race driver or car guy that's tested tons of cars and engine combos. The only way you'll know for sure is to go on the dyno....and even on those, there are lots of variables that can make your numbers different.

You're on the right track to get those A/F gauges though.

Just my

This is completly true and I agree 100%. I had actually figured on making less power because most enignes that they test on the dyno are in perfect air, open headers, have no drive accessories except maybe an alternator. I, on the other hand have a water pump, power steering pump, and alternator to turn over. That is why I tried to build mine with more compression. I know that you can't trust everything that you read, but most hot rodding publications suggest that for every 1 full point of compression you increase, engine output is increase by 4%. With almost a full point over the test motor, I figured I'd pick up maybe, MAYBE 10-12HP to somewhat offset the parasitic losses of the drive accessories.

Another statement that I agree with. I have only driven the car on the street so far, it has never been to the track or on a dyno so I really don't know. The issue for me is the rear diff is a 3.42 open and I can't even use 1/2 throttle in 1st gear. Anything more than that and it blows the tire(yes i meant tire) off. It is just that it doesn't feel that much faster than my 1998 Trans Am and it only has a stock LS1 with LT, cat back, K&N, lid, and a 4l60E with a shift kit and 3000 stall converter. I (once again never dynoed it) only think that the T/A is making about 350 flywheel HP, and runs 8.56 in the 1/8 at 82MPH with a 1.93 60ft.(that is with 2.73's in the rear but it's posi) on 245/55/16 Kumho street radials. Essentially I am looking to squeeze as much out of this combo as I an.