I have a 85 iroc camaro, I toke it in to the mechanic the other for engine diagnosis, and was told I needed a new carb, the car was running fine but it was running to lean and all I wanted to do is adjust it. Now the day after the mechanic saw the car, there is something wrong with choke (I think) the car will turn on but after a couple of seconds later it dies on me.

Huh, suspicious.
Do the choke adjustment.
Get someone to pump the gas once, and try to start it. Watch the carb and see what it does.

It should fire up, and the choke pulloff should pull the choke blades open ~1/8", and it should idle at 2000RPM or so.

Choke pull-off?

Rebuild time? There's tons of info on here that can help with a rebuild.

mine was running too lean, so i changed the fuel filter. the Check Engine light didn't come on for another week, and then one night, when it was REALLY cold, it came on. hasn't happened since. both times it cam on, i was on the freeway, and it was below zero. as for the choke, i don't know what to tell you, but the initial prob could have just been a fuel filter ($4 at napa)

the choke blades does not move, I pump a lot of fuel in the carb, it turns on but then after a couple of seconds it wants to die, but before it does I hit the gas and it just gets worse, and dies. I did change the fuel filter. I try rebuilding the tham thing, any one knows a good website were they sell part for it, I'll would hate to buy a new one right now.

All the info you need to rebuild it is here in this forum. A rebuild kit can be had at most any parts store along with some carb cleaner, or better yet a can of carb dip. I'd recommend a new float too, 'bout $6-8 or so.

Read the sticky and look for a thread started by Nate86.

There's a guy on EBAY selling a NOS Quadrajet E4ME FOR $250.... Brand spankin new, still in the box. Search under "Camaro NOS."

Nothing came up but an airhorn.

I know someone who had a recently rebuilt, verified fine operating E4ME for less than that.

I'm still suspicious, personally. I don't think the shop knows what they're talking about; or, they're trying to sell you something you don't need.

Yeah, I just did another search and it's been purchased. I just thought that a new old stock carburator was worth $250. I would have purchased it immediately if I'd had the cash. You just can't find those.

ok, i started taking the carb apart today, and came across my first problem, my air-bleed valve has one broken o-ring, and i'm not sure if there was two of them, i need to find out, but could that be why it was running to lean, i'm going deeper to make sure what other problems it may have.

Regular mechanics today (especially younger ones) prolly know nothing about carbs. i mean, the newest factory carbed car i've seen is an 89 honda accord, lol.

Yes that could be one of your problems. Make sure you count turns to seat for the MCS screw, or lean stop set screw, so you can re-install at same height.

Ok i screwed up on that last post, i didn't count the turns on the MLS screw, so what is the factory setting if there any?

The lean stop screw is the one inside the carb that holds the MCS in place. It has a rectangular head that can be accessed through an opening in the airhorn that is usually plugged in a carb that has not been messed with. Turning it in lowers the MCS in relation to the carb body and allows the primary rods to go further down into the wells. There's a special tool somewhere that allows you to set this height properly, but without it you can try one of two things:

1) If the rich stop set screw has not been moved in the airhorn you can use it's position to set the lean stop screw so there is 1/8" of travel for the MCS. The rich stop screw is the shiny flat headed piece that screws into the airhorn and limits the UPWARD travel of the MCS. Start at about 3-1/2 turns out on the lean stop and with the airhorn on and gasket in place measure the travel of the MCS through the Idle Air Bleed opening (Air Bleed removed). Adjust the lean stop to get 1/8". A secondary metering rod will drop right in and you should be able to feel the MCS clicking up and down.

2) If the rich stop set screw has been moved just set your lean stop at 3 1/2 turns out and adjust the rich stop set screw in the airhorn to get 1/8" of travel. You'll probably be close enough.

You don't need the special tool to adjust the lean stop screw either, just remove the airhorn and adjust up or down a little at a time. It helps if you do this without all the other things put together in there yet, like booster pump, etc.

Not to revive a dead thread or anything BUT....

In order to more easily adjust the MCS, you can also do the following:
1. Remove the air-horn
2. Remove the MCS
3. Place the MCS in a soft-jaw vise.
4. Using your favorite narrow-blade hack-saw, cut a notch perpendicular to the sides of the head of the MCS.
5. Put everything back together.

Now, assuming there's no cap (which is easily removed w/ the proper drill-bit), you just need a small flat-head screwdriver to adjust it, and this can be done on the block, engine running if need-be.

THIS HELPED ME A LOT!

Oh, and if you don't have a hacksaw, a dremel will also work (That's what I used).

EDIT: Forgot to mention, if you also seem to be lacking a vise (as I am), you CAN modify the MCS without removing it from the carb (NOT RECOMMENDED!). Take a rag, and poke a small hole in it (smaller than the MCS). After removing the air-horn and the accelerator pump, remove the primary rods and the device that controls them (can't remember the name... will update when I do.).
Place the rag over the carb, making sure the MCS is protruding through the hole, and that the ENTIRE carb is covered COMPLETELY. Modify, test, and reassemble. Happy Birthday.

Crowbar.

if anyone is looking for the special tool and gauge kits to rebuild/adjust the rochester quadrajet computer controlled carburetors, there are thexton 362 and 370 kits available on ebay now.