Whats the general thoughts on this carb? I'm got a slowly failing Edelbroch (dead spot) and my family mechanic recommended this model (Holly 0-80670). My set-up is a 350 (vortec heads, edelbrock carb and intake, good headers and exhaust) with a Turbo 350 tranny with a 3.73 rear end ratio. I'm not sure what kind of cam is installed. Is the avenger the way to go?

General thoughts? Don't.

Is it the way to go? No.

Where does you converter stall? If above 1500 RPMs, a 650-750 Holley double pumper would be the ticket for that combo. Which depends upon the cam and intake you have (which you didn't specify).

Hmmm, is there anyway to figure out your converter stalls without tearing digging under the hood?

No clue what cam I have either; At 55 I'm running about 2200 RPM. Also wish I knew what cam I had without tearing the engine down; or atleast estimate what range my cam operates at.


So, is the Street Avenger generally considered for milder applications over a double pumper?

Its not a bad carb i used one on a project i built and loved it.

Thanks for the info! What kind of set-up where you running?

Determining stall: Set the parking brake, hold the brake pedal down, put it in drive, give it gas and observe how high the RPMs go.

Cam: How does it pull to, say 5000 RPMs? Any higher? Does it idle smoothly? Most likely you have a fairly mild cam. So, you don't need a really big carb.

I can't recommend an SA for a car. Tow vehicle, maybe, but there's really no reason to use a vacuum secondary carb on a performance car.

Had one of those carbs, HATED IT. Had it on a 305 and just for giggles, put a 750 double pumper on instead. The 750 had better throttle response and more power. The 670 was lazy and never really ran right. Sold it soon after and kept the 750 on the 305 till I build up my current 350.

I'm running the 670 street avenger. My only gripe is I've had heck with it wanting to cough when you first punch it coming out of the hole. With the light secondary spring in it, the secondaries come in ok, no gripe there. There is some tuning involved with it, overall it's ok. I honestly wish I had a double pumper I could just try out. To be honest I assumed a double pumper would be way too much for my 305 and just basically flood it out but your post "evil" has got me curious if my 305 would tollerate it better than I've thought it would.

Dan

I had a Street Avenger 670, best thing I did with it was put it on ebay (sold for $250). I bought a 750 dp off Ebay and Holley rebuild kit for $210. I gained $40, a definate increase in power and response, with the same MPG...

Wow, and until now I was under the impression that the SA was "the" performance street carb. Guess what they say about making assumptions is correct... What Holley double pumper would you recommend? I'm still leaning to some of the lower CFMs, because I don't want a big 750 that'll put too much gas into the engine. Maybe a 650?

4776. Add an electric choke kit.

I'd also recommend a 600 or 650 dp. It would work best with a mild stall converter though. You may want to consult Holley's chart on minimum stall speed for mechanical secondary carbs, but a stock converter may be "adequate". Definatetly spring for the electric choke kit, it is very nice if your car is a DD like mine is.

I'm running a 670 SA on my car, recently went from a 750 holley and I like the 670 better, when I get some time I still have to do some fine tunning but it really like the way it runs, feels stronger then the 750 did even when it ran nice.

"Feelings" are very deceiving. If you had dyno or track data with each to back that up, that would be a different story.

Good street manners is a viable evaluation.

And, when you get right down to it, most this-carb-vs.-that-carb things come down to tuning.

But. . .

That doesn't mean you can tune a VS carb to run as good as a DP carb. . .

True, seat of the pants feel isn't the most reliable but, I am also judgeing by how easy I can break the rear end loose on with the same tires and on the same road as with the 750, it is noticeable easier with the 670, of course the 750 I had was a pos so that probably has a lot to do with it.

this is one of those hate it or love it topics. I have it and love it. I like going to the track, flopping out a spring running the daylights out of the car. When im done i put in a heavier spring, close the secondarys down and get great gas milage. (13-15 city)<--- when tpi i got 9, so yeah thats "great"

If the spring affects gas mileage, you either have an extremely heavy foot (which would explain the horrible gas mileage you're getting both with the carb and TPI), or you've got something really wrong with your set-up/tuning (which would explain the horrible gas mileage you're getting both with the carb and TPI).

The spring isn't a very good way to control secondary opening. The much better way is with the Quick Fuel Technologies adjustable secondary housing, which meters the vacuum signal to control bog.

my foot weighs 900 lbs

Only way you can make the car go fast enough

600 CFM (should I go with a higher cfm?) Holley 4776, located.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Electronic choke kit, located.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=HLY-45-224S

This is my first time replacing a carb, what additional "suggested parts" will I need?

Throttle and kickdown cable studs. Cable bracket if you don't have one. Inlet line, fuel filter.

i have the 770 sa. Im getting18mpg(highway) 11.88in the 1/4 is the best time so far.

I have to agre with everyone here ..get the dp. I wish i would have done a little more resaerch before i bought mine. By the time you buy all the tuning kits, you could have gotten the better carb to start off with.

Im changing over to the hp in the winter, when i swap cam, carb ,and converter

Looking at the 4777 now, a 650 sounds better. I'd rather slightly over-carb than undercarb.

That's in line with my original recommendation.