CarburetorsCarb discussion and questions. Upgrading a Third Gen carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.
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View Poll Results: Which Carb
Holley Classic Carb Double Pumper 650
3
100.00%
Road Demon 725 Dual Line
0
0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 3. You may not vote on this poll
Heres the problem I had a v6 85 Camaro and I'm getting ready to put in my new 350.
The guy I bought it from said that the Holley 670 Street Avenger was the way to go, but I heard someone else say that's not big enough for a stall over 1500 rpms. Well I have a 2200 - 2400 stall. Heres everything about the engine and under it I'll tell you the tranny and rear end.
3.484" stroke nodular iron crank
5.7" forged rods with ARP rod bolts
9 to 1 compression flat top pistons
More special features of this engine include:
Seasoned 4-bolt main block
Deck head gasket surface on block to ensure a good seal
New CompCams hydraulic flat tappet high performance cam-NEW INFO-------Lift: .470''-------Duration: 270°
76cc heads with 1.940"Int/1.500"Exh valves
New 1.250" high performance springs set up to match cam
New High temperature valve seals
New Spiral-type valve guides
New Screw-in rocker studs with guide plates
New Steel rocker arms with balls and nuts
New Hardened push rods
New Perfect Circle rings
New Double row timing set
New High volume oil pump with welded big pickup screen and steel drive shaft and steel guide
New Revolutionary 1-pc design molded rubber oil pan gasket with load limiters to prevent over-tightening and higher temperature resistance than standard cork-rubber gaskets
New Brass expansion plugs
New Edelbrock (non-egr) Dual Plane Performer aluminum intake
All parts are painted separately before assembly for that show quality look
The engine is dynoed (with stock parts [no headers etc.]) at 330 horsepower and 390 ft pounds of torque. I've got nice Edelbrock tubular headers and true dual flowmaster single chambers. Iv'e got a fresh built strong turbo 350 tranny, and a 12 bolt 3.73 geared rear end. Well if your not completey tired from reading all this sorry just please reply your comments. I'm only 16 and this is my first car I learn by all you guys so teach me a little more about carbs.
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Last edited by 85camaro350v8; 11-02-2008 at 02:54 PM.
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882's are the last three digits of the casting number on the heads, 76cc heads are normally what is refered to as smogger junk or wheel chocks. 882 castings are a prime example.
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As far as carb recommendation I think you'd be quite happy with a Holley 650 dp, some people may recommend a 750, but in my opinion it's a trade off, a 650 would most likely provide the best throttle responce.
Last edited by 89RsPower!; 11-02-2008 at 03:37 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
882's are the last three digits of the casting number on the heads, 76cc heads are normally what is refered to as smogger junk or wheel chocks. 882 castings are a prime example.
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As far as carb recommendation I think you'd be quite happy with a Holley 650 dp, some people may recommend a 750, but in my opinion it's a trade off, a 650 would most likely provide the best throttle responce.
I was generalizing, find out what the casting number of the heads are and find out what they actually are (casting numbers are located under the valve cover and are typically 7 or 8 digits). Chances are they arn't anything great but that really doesn't matter at this point. Heads are changeable in the future if you ever decide to upgrade. It sounds like a basic rebuilt 350 which is a decent starting point for a reliable street car. Get yourself a carb, get it running and go from there. Also keep in mind the hp and torque ratings are most likely at the flywheel, the actual output at the rear wheels will be a good deal lower when you take into account losses from drivetrain, exhaust, and accessories. 10% to 15% loss is cosidered normal.
Last edited by 89RsPower!; 11-02-2008 at 08:16 PM.
I was generalizing, find out what the casting number of the heads are and find out what they actually are (casting numbers are located under the valve cover and are typically 7 or 8 digits). Chances are they arn't anything great but that really doesn't matter at this point. Heads are changeable in the future if you ever decide to upgrade. It sounds like a basic rebuilt 350 which is a decent starting point for a reliable street car. Get yourself a carb, get it running and go from there. Also keep in mind the hp and torque ratings are most likely at the flywheel, the actual output at the rear wheels will be a good deal lower when you take into account losses from drivetrain, exhaust, and accessories. 10% to 15% loss is cosidered normal.
thanks alot man i guess its all just a learning process and you've helped a lot
A Holley 670 CFM is a Street Avenger vacuum secondary carb. I would not recommend it.
The heads are costing you 20-30 HP vs. what Vortecs would produce. A 670 Street Avenger would be .1 to .2 seconds slower in the quarter mile vs. a 650 double pumper.
That's failsafe advice to keep people who think "bigger is always better" from ruining your reputation.
There's nothing wrong with a properly sized double pumper on an automatic car. It took me awhile, but I finally learned that lesson in 2003 - 750 VS to 650 DP gained .2 sec in the quarter. Going to 750 DP gained another tenth.
So should I go with the Holley Classic 650 Double Pumper? Im also looking at the Road Demon 725 Dual Line carb. What do you think check out my poll. Why or why not should I use one or the other?
