when i punch the gas or even half peddle it the engine kinda boggs befor it picks back up.. this just kill responce time. the accelrator pump seems to be good cuz it starts cold just fine "without choke". im running a stock 350 200hp factory but now is very tired so im guessing lose of compression to some extent. im not sure if its the carb or the engine itself anyone have some info? maybe a smaller carb 550??

It's not the carb size.
Most carb problems are actually ignition problems.
First check for misfires.
Next check for spark advance.

Your engine may be getting too little advance when you punch it. If you add 10* to your initial timing and the problem starts to go away, then that's a clue. If it stays the same or gets worse, then it points back to the carb.

The lever arm for the accelerator pump can be adjusted, and the squirter nozzle can be changed to a different size. These adjustments change the amount and duration of the pump shot when you hit the gas. The factory setting on the carb should be enough for your engine unless the rubber accel pump plunger is too old and defective - not sealing anymore. Also, if the carb has been taken apart before, the check-valve that sits under the accel pump nozzle could have been lost. This case would cause a problem like you describe.

Try some of this troubleshooting and report back how it goes.

my guess is its the carb. I use to use a edelbrock and it was a rear PITA. take it off and place it not so gently in the trash.

the issue i had was the secondary air valve wasn't set right and its not adjustable.

try disconnecting the linkage or the secondaries and see what happens.

i disconnected the secondaries and nothing realy happend other than not being able to feal it when acceleration from cruising speed. 45mph.
still shutters when punched.

i have not checked the timing yet tho.. i havent been able to get it into the shop this week. but the guy who i bought it from did say that the timing marks are messed up so he just timed it the "best he could"... what ever that means.

oh and would the engine being worn out affect this?

no the engine being worn would most like not cause this. It seems to be a combination of timing and carb tuning.

Is the dizzy advancing timing properly?


as for what i said before about disconnecting the secondaries. I had my carb tuned pretty well and it would bog if you punched it, then take off. If i disconnected the secondaries and only used the primaries, it would work fine, jut without the extra power of the back 2 barels. I was able to bend and f-with the air valve and got it to work pretty well, but it was never perfect.

Im running a holley 4150 on my new motor and its perfect.

Your carb is fine in size, it just needs to be tuned. Was going to explain the procedure, but sometimes it's easier if you visually see the process, as opposed to reading....

These should help a little....;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xspfeMJO3O8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADw0KKwSkV4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEeKYZS-Stg

thanks for the helpfull info. i wont be able to change the timing or anything els untill this weekend, as soon as i do ill report back and tell you if it fixed the problem.

Good deal....

the weights and springs in the distributor were fried, the bushings the weights ride on were worn out so the post it pivits on were almost worn to breaking off, and the weights round circle is now a long oval.

i suspect that this is one of my main problems with acceleration.
i dont have a new distributor yet but im going to get one soon any ideas what would be the best choice or reasonable money?