one92rs

iTrader: (5)

starting in the morning. i will be removing all the fuel injection. going to remove the dash and remove the check engine light and leave the computer for now. i can take pictures and go step by step if there is enough interest. install will include-
1. old style edelbrock performer intake--hogging center holes
2. barry grant 17021 bypass fuel regulater
3. brass pushlock fittings-an adapters (earl) -jegs pro hose
4. new procomp hei dizzy--set up for 7000 rpm's
5. swap meet new holley 80457s--rebuilt
6. 12 point intake bolts
7. holley adapter throttle-kickdown-cruise adapter brackets
8. holley carb install kit
9. stainless fitting--vaccumn tee
10. denso platinum plugs
11. msd wires
12. chrome timing cover.

should keep me busy all day. if you want to come and help come on over.

Windsma

Pulled my TBI today also.
it was as easy as expected. Prob took an hour.

Im going for the cheap build. So far total = $30
Quadrajet Free, thanks Dad
HEI w/ new cap in the box, Free, thanks Dad
Intake gaskets, Free, thanks Dad
4 brl alum. GM Intake ($30 from friend)
Im going to the parts store tomorrow for plugs, oil/filter and a few lil things.
Good Luck w/ your build

Windsma

I installed every thing today, i didnt have a way to hook up my fuel gauge so i went off the previous setting just to test.
Primed the pump
Started... Ran for 2 sec.
I think the previous setting is around 13-14psi for racing use. Way to much for the Qjet.
So the plugs are fouled and wouldn't run
Leaving it over night and change the plugs in the morning.

I had a weird puff of smoke crap coming out from under the Carb.
IDK what thats all about??? bolts tight and good gasket.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

got mine almost done. its driveable. still working on the throttle and kickdown linkage. 13 psi is way to much for a carb. i have mine set at 6psi with my regulator.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

here it is complete

buzzman1

The fuel pump running for 2 secs can be solved by running a 12v+ ingnition on wire to the green/white wire on the fuel pump relay. The ecm will only let it run for 2 secs without by passing it. good luck.

Buzzman1

buzzman1

I had smoke at the carb too but advancing the timing to about 14 deg adv. solved that.

Buzzman1

Windsma

I went the cheap way, so i expected problems.
The older GM intake is not matching up right and i have to pull it off again to change the intake gaskets. I was getting blow bye (oil) from a few bolt holes, opened up the valve cover breather and it kind helped. The smoke is still pouring out of the carb area and breather. I added a cheap Mr.Gasket set at 5psi, after my old racing Regulator, It stopped the smoke somewhat. Then crapped out again. I know from LT1's WOT fuel pressure was around 55psi. I prob blew past both regulators w/ that much pressure.

I bought this car 3 days ago so who knows what is wrong w/ it.

I think I will try putting on new Intake gaskets *(which one ??? for the head or for the intake???) Bypass the 12v to a switched source. If that doesn't work, cut the power to the intank pump, and install a mechanical fuel pump w/ no regulators.

Quasi-Traction

Did you have to slot the center two intake bolt holes? ended up having to do that with a friends intake when he swapped over from TBI to carb in his Van.

also you might not be able to put a mechanical pump on if your cam doesn't have the lobe to move the Fuel pump pushrod.

Windsma

On the 4 center holes, yes. For those who need to do this, You need to remove material on the outer side of the hole only.
The cam lobe, IDK. That would suck to do all that work and not have it. I was told by the previous owner it was an aftermarket cam.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

yes i did have to hog some meat from the four center holes. not to much.

buzzman--14* wow mine had clatter at 12*. still need to play with the carb some it is running a little rich for my stoker 305 with high miles.

buzzman1

I think I needed the adv because the cam is a little much for a 305 but it runs pretty good with 14 deg at idle and about 36 or 37 total advance at max vacuum.
Buzzman1

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

man i want to put a cam in the little 305. it is tempting. especially since i have a 5.7 350 vortech out of a truck with one cylinder low compression sitting in the garage.

Awesome-X

Would any of you guys being willing to part with your TBI's or TPI's? I have a car on my 87 and I wanna go to something a little more hassle free.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

my tbi is in the parts for sale section under tbi parts. it has new injectors and was just rebuilt. i also have the intake and distributor.

92Forumla

iTrader: (2)

Send me a write-up if you would to Threeeofive@yahoo.com

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

Remove the air cleaner from the car. Then cover the tbi with a freezer bag and blow off the top of the engine. I then removed the fuel lines,brake booster line, and all vaccumn lines from the tbi. Then remove the linkage and tie it back out of the way. I tied mine with a zip tie to the wire harness above the passenger side valve cover. I then unplugged everything on the intake. Next I removed the tbi from the intake and put rags in the holes. Also put some rags or something under where the fuel lines go as they will leak gas on the intake. I then began draining the coolant. After it all drained from the radiator I pulled the ¼ inch plug on the drivers side bottom of the block to try and drain the rest. There will still be some in the intake that will be stubborn. I removed #1 spark plug from the engine and rotated the engine to tdc#1. Then remove the alternator and then the fuel lines. I disconnected them at the fittings from the steel lines and then unbolted the bracket that holds them to the mounting bracket under the alternator. Remove the steel line for the brake booster and the bracket for it from the intake. Then I removed all plug wires from the engine. don’t forget to mark where number one is on the distributor. Mine was lined up with the rotor pointing toward the front drivers side bolt on the intake. Then I unplugged the distributor and coil plugs. Then remove the coil and distributor and coil from the intake. Then remove the bolts holding the egr valve solenoid and remove it. I removed the heater hose from the rear of the intake. Remove the upper radiator hose from the intake. Remove the a/c bracket from the intake. Now it is time to unbolt and remove the intake. You are going to spill some coolant in the lifter valley. You will need to clean all this up. I used shop towels to soak it all up. I then put shop towels in the intake, exhaust, and coolant passages on the heads. I cut out a piece of cardboard to fit in the lifter valley. Clean off the old intake gaskets from the head. After cleaning the gaskets off I did a trial fit on the intake. Mine is a very old edelbrock performer intake. I was giving it a look see to see how much I would have to hog out of the four center holes. I used a die grinder with a carbide bit to hog mine out. I made sure I cleaned the intake very well before putting it on and off to test fit. After that I cleaned all surfaces with brake clean and installed the intake. I torqued mine to 30#. Start in the center and work your way out. After that I installed the new distributor. At this time I cut the plug from the big pink and white wire and hooked them to the distributor using an hei plug from oreilly’s auto parts. Make sure the vacuum advance canister had plenty of room to move. Mine points towards the a/c drier on the passenger side. Either use your old hold down or buy a new one. Mine is a new chrome one. I then installed my vacuum tee in the intake at the back in front of the distributor. I used a 1/8 pipe to ¼ inch hose barb and a 1/8 inch pipe to 3/8 hose barb. I then installed the carb on the engine and torqued to 80 inch pounds using a cross pattern. I then installed the heater fittings and hose on the front of the intake. ½ inch pipe to 5/8 hose barb fitting. It was at this time that I started ti find the choke power wire. I used the red injector power wire from the harness. Works great. I then cut off all the remaining plugs for the fuel injection harness that were not needed. And removed the map sensor and plug. I taped and tucked all my wires back in the harness for now. I then hooked up the vacuum line to the firewall that controls the a/c and other functions and the brake booster hose to the tee. I then hooked the pcv to the fitting on the carb and the vacuum canister to the timed fitting on the front of the carb. I moved my pcv valve to the passenger side valve cover. Then it was time to set up the fuel system. I used the earl adapter fittings on the fuel feed and return lines. I then installed two screw on to hose barbed fittings. These will have to be jic which has a 37* pich in the fitting to adapt to the an fittings. I then fabbed a bracket out of 1/8 aluminum to hold the regulator. All my fittings were hose barb fittings. I looked at an fittings and thought they were a little expensive. Look for brass push lock fittings. I also used jeg’s pro push lock hose. Man it fits tight. After mounting the regulator I measured out and cut all hoses and installed them. My regulator is a barry grant bypass regulator which is needed for a return. I chose barry grant since it had a gauge port on it. Now connect all the hoses. It was now that I removed the charcoal canister and the cruise control cable. I also capped off the vacuum tee behine the distributor that went to the cruise control canister. I stalled new spark plugs and then a new set of wires on the car. 18436572 is the firing order. Clockwise. I then removed the heater hose that went to the front of the intake. I started filling with coolant until coolant began coming out of the intake fitting. Hooked up the hose and returned to filling the cooling system. I left it down from the top about 6 inches. Now it was time to see if she would start. Oh yay. I then waited for her to warm up and checked the timing. Some may need to turn the distributor to get it to run or even start up. Turn on the heater to make sure coolant is getting every where. I set my timing to 10*. Then set the fuel pressure to 6#. Add coolant as needed. Now. As for the throttle and kick down linkage. I had a holley bracket that moved everything to close. The factory bracket moved it to far away. I ended up with a mr gasket bracket that has both kick down and throttle cable brackets on it. It is a little flimsy but will work. I have used a piece of aluminum to stiffen mine up but I am going to buy one of the ones from jegs that even has the return springs on it. Took a few trial runs to get the Tvs cable set right but no biggie. Now it is trial and error for adjusting the carb. I went to hooley.com and looked for my model number and downloaded the instructions. Made sure all gauges worked. I had a dc controller controlling my fans so I didn’t have to worry about that. I know that they make all kinds of controllers that can be had. I left my computer in and I am going to just remove the bulb from the dash. My pump still comes on for three seconds when the key is turned on. Your speedo, tach, and all other gauges will work. I did notice that my tach seems to be a little off. just a couple hundred rpm’s. the rest is making sure there are no leaks and that the cooling system has bleed the air out the rest of the way. Best of luck to you.
Parts ---1. bypass regulator--mine is the barry grant--has gauge port.
Misc aluminum from hardware or thin steel for misc brackets.
The fittings I used I got from fittings and adapters.com.
1-3/8 pipe to 3/8 hose barb push lock--straight-brass
2-3/8 pipe to 3/8 90* hose barb push lock-brass
2 -female swivel jic 37* to 3/8 hose barb-brass
1-fuel injection 14mm to 1.5 adapter oring--earls
1-fuel injection 16mm to 1.5 adapter oring--earls
10ft push lock hose
Pressure gauge--1 to 15 psi--summit
　
Intake-edelbrock-wiend-holley-or your preference mine was an old edelbrock I got for $40.00 bucks
Fittings for the heater hose or the old one out of your fuel injection intake.
Carb-again your choice. I got a holley 80457s from a swap meet and rebuilt it. It is a 600. Works great. Need to do some fine tuning on it.
A distributor-mine was a procomp hei from eBay I got for $62.00 shipped. Came complete. Hook up wires and go.
Gaskets-intake-carb-thermostat housing-distributor-silicone for intake-I used all felpro gaskets.
Hei tach and power wire connector--got mine from auto parts
Plug wires if you need new ones and I replaced my spark plugs at this time to.
Throttle and Tvs cable brackets-I ended up with a mr gasket bracket. Yours may work with a holley or one of the ones from jegs. I think I will order the one from jegs one day. I had to beef mine up since it was a little flimsy.
Change the oil since coolant and some things will get in the oil.
Hope this helps.
　

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

wow that is a lot of writing. hope it helps.

poomwah

I'm going to be switching from fuel injection to carb on my 89. I get to skip a lot of steps though since mine came without an engine or trans, LOL.
I'm sure I'm going to get a LOT of use out of your write-up though. Thanks for posting so much info :]

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

finally made a bracket that housed the throttle and tvs cables. going to order the holley one from jegs soon.

marine68

thanks, your write up is great. what did you do about the vats system since you kept the ecm. my 89 iroc with vats and ecm controls the starter, fuel pump, and ignition start. i now know about the lock up switch for my 700r4 trans. that is why i don't need the ecm. i'm going to buy the edelbrock performer like yours but now they make the one for 87 and up model. i also will look at that model holley carb you got . the fuel line/pressure regulator is the way to go. i'm going to copy that too.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

i left my ecm in there. i then removed the gauges and then the mil bulb. i havent had a problem with the fuel pump or starting.

deoverton

After converting to carb how has the mpg difference been looking?

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

tvs cable--i have had to fine tune this adjustment with trial and error. i have had to adjust it one click at a time even afterdoing it the right way. the reason for this imop is that the throw on the carb linkage is more than the tbi. i finally got it right.

as far as gas mileage i am still tuning on the carb. it was a little low but i have managed to lean her out some. but--when you go out and play around it goes quick.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

sometimes it just doesnt pay to buy something used and cheap. the intake that i used ended up have a leak from a plug in the cooling system that someone evedently had a problem with before. tried to remove the plug but could not get it to even budge using a pipe wrench or extended 1/2 inch ratchet. i had to get another one. bought the performer eps 86 and ealier intake. slotted the center holes and mounted her up. also put in a vaccuum tee from summit. cleaned all the wiring as well.

webcat

Very nice write up!
Very Very nice write up!
can you use the TBI camshaft with the carb setup?
also could you add some closeup pictures of all your vacuam connections?

is that gold thing next to your radiator hose a coolant tempature sensor?

Thanks alot for the write up

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

i have not changed the cam. i have her running pretty good except for some carb tuning i need to get to soon. going to try smaller jets since my engine is real tired. as far as vacuum connections i only have a few. to the tee--brake booster and the one for the a/c and heater controls that is behind the distributor. then i have the pcv going to the carb outlet which you can see in the pic with the tee right on the carb on the passenger side. the distributor i have going to the timed outlet on the carb towards the front which you can see in the first pic.. the sender next to my hose there is for an aftermarket temp gauge.

webcat

yes thanks for the info .
when it came to your vacuam lines , i could'nt see what the one running behind the distributer went to ( i now know , AC and heater )
please keep us updated how tuning goes .

webcat

so what did you all need to run the HEI distibuter ?
do you need some kind of ignition module or points or does the HEI distibuter take care of this?

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

no sir i used the large pink wire and the large white wire from the coil. installed a hei plug that i got from oreilly auto parts and just plugged it in. white is the tach wire and the pink is power for the distributor.

Awesome-X

This may be a stupid question but what does the vacuum t go to?

webcat

i already asked him that and he said one goes to ac/heater and the other goes to brake booster

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

one of them goes to the brake booster. the other goes to the vacuum tee behind the distributor for the ac/heater and cruise control.

87cmroiroc305ho

iTrader: (2)

do the gauges work, i have a aftermarket tach in it already, just gotta run the wires, but im assuming that the speedo is still cable driven, and what about all the other gauges, if i was to not even touch them, would they work, or what do i have to do, cuz i want the carb as you may know, but i want the stock gauges short of the tach. i rather the stock tach wasnt even there

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

actually my speedo is electric. i have been told it will work and that it will not work. havent tried it yet without the ecm. but i am going to this weekend.

87cmroiroc305ho

iTrader: (2)

so just leaving in the ecm, and disconnecting near everything from under the hood will keep the gauges working, besided disconnecting the connectors for the sensors....

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

that is correct.

stroker_SS

Very clean swap, nice job!

mattmerritt89

Me and my dad are switching to a carb. When we started the up it was putting out a ton of blue smoke could the pressure regulator be bad on it and causing it to get to much fuel?

mattmerritt89

My dad and I put a carb on a 88 camaro. When we started it up it was putting alot of blue smoke, could the fuel pressure regulator be bad?

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

what size carb. which intake. and what is the fuel pressure set at.

mattmerritt89

I have a 600 cfm holley carb. A three way regulator at 6 psi replaced the regulator this morning and a HEI ignition

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

do you know what size jets are in it. is it a new carb. mine came with 64 jets in it. im now running 60.

mattmerritt89

I got the car running now when I hooked the tach up it pegs out and stays when the switch is on

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

i would try a different terminal. mine is right next to the power connection.

mattmerritt89

That's what I hooked it up to is there another one beside the power

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

not really. i used a plug i bought from the auto parts. large pink and the white one. the larger white one/

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

I wanna do that to mine too only that i will put a L98 350 block were you able to keep the a/c and did you take off your harness and the ecm

MitchellDeMoor

Thanks for the write up. Me and my dad are rebuilding a '91 Camaro and putting in a cared 350. I enjoyed the article. Good luck!

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

here is the latest rendition. best of luck on it.