CarburetorsCarb discussion and questions. Upgrading your Third Gen's carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.
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I got a 83 t/a 305 cui originally mounted whit a quadradjet 4bbl electronic feedback carburator, and i got tired off the struggle i had whit the carb.
I dicided to get rit og the carb and bought a Edelbrock 500cfm preformance carb, Edelbrock performance intake and a Mallory HEI distributer...... and wow what a difference it made, it awakened my car. Im very happy with the new setup.
I know quadrajet is a good carb but when is broken beyond repair you can try finding another or choose to get a new.
Only thing you should be aware of, if your current carb is computer controlled feedback you will have to replace your distributer because its also controlled by the computer.
ok that sounds like a good set up. wat kinda of dist do you have to get a vacum advance. i dont know much about carborators and could you give me prices on the carb,intake, and dist. also how hard was it to install
Go to summitracing.com and look at the Summit brand carburetors and HEI distributor.
For a stock 305, the 600 cfm carburetor should work well, you don't need it to be any bigger than that. The Summit brand HEI distributor works just as well as the brand name products, for half the money.
For an intake, an Edelbrock Performer RPM is probably your best bet. You can spend a little extra on the Air-Gap version and make a little more power. All told, the total cost would be around $500. You could save a lot of money by getting a used carb and/or intake however. Also, don't forget new gaskets. Personally, I don't think a carb & intake swap is that difficult. You can get lots of tech help here if you need it.
Good luck
On a 305, I honestly don't know. Most of the gains will come from the intake, but all of the comparison tests I have seen have been on a 350, which is much more "responsive" to upgrades. Changing your carburetor and distributor really won't be giving you much more power, if any.
now wat if i want to get rid of all the emission stuff. cuz im puttin headers on the car and i dont want to keep the emissions. also want to get a cat delete pipe but cant find out
wat kind of horse power gains can i get from that?
From changing the carb, none whatsoever. Probably a horsepower decrease, definitely an economy decrease, especially with a Performer carb.
From a Performer intake, maybe 5-10 HP. But, probably not.
The power "problem" with the 305 is not with the carb, and only to a minor level with the intake, all else being stock. The place to spend your money is exhaust (which isn't so bad with an HO, if in fact it is an HO), air cleaner (except the HO dual snorkel - if you have an HO with dual snorkel, that's good to go) and cam. After that is heads - 1.94" intake valves and port/bowl clean-up.
When you've done power increasing mods to the point that the engine is no longer streetable, then you can consider changing the carb.
so your sayin that wat i have right now is all i can get out of that 5.0HO with out boring it over and all that good stuff? damn that freakin sucks lol. time for the 5.7l swap
can i run the stock carb with the same dist and after market intake or?
Easy answer here is "Yes". If you use the Edelbrock Performer mani. Its got all the hookups you will need and is designed to bolt to a spreadbore (Q-Jet or what you have) carburator. And while you "can" bolt a squarebore carburator like a holley or an edelbrock to it, one quick look at it and you will be able to tell its not really better for it. If your down with getting a new carb as well I would source the Summit Intakes AND Carbs. You will end up in it under $500 and it will be very nice.
But to be honest I think you will do just fine with a stock carb and a Performer Intake. Which should run you a whopping $129.99 B4 Tax at your local Autozone.
BTW I ran a 600 Edelbrock and a Performer EPS mani on my 305 and I liked the difference.
Performers show up on ebay all the time too for a good discount. The non-egr ones more often than the egr.
The performer has screw holes for square or spread bore carb. (I think most aftermarket ones do right?) I was glad it did when my q-jet wasn't working (gummed up from sitting around) and I had to temporarily put an old holley 4160 on. Temporary because my holley is old and crappy, leaks, and the locations of the hose fittings don't work well with the egr placement on the performer.
so your sayin that wat i have right now is all i can get out of that 5.0HO with out boring it over and all that good stuff? damn that freakin sucks lol. time for the 5.7l swap
I don't think that is what anyone meant. I hope you don't mean that you would overbore an engine for more power...
You can still get a lot more out of that engine, you would probably want to start by upgrading the exhaust, then start to worry about the top-end.
Maybe try something like this: "The place to spend your money is exhaust (which isn't so bad with an HO, if in fact it is an HO), air cleaner (except the HO dual snorkel - if you have an HO with dual snorkel, that's good to go) and cam. After that is heads - 1.94" intake valves and port/bowl clean-up."
yes it is a snorkel cowel combo. i would like to put a different air cleaner on it though. i already have a jegs catback with a 3inch intermidate pipe and it sounds awsome not to loud but just right. im workin on headers put i dont know wat kinda to buy i only want to spean like 400 fo headers and a y-pipe. i might just upgrade to a 5.7L though
i have a edelbrock performer rpm intake and a edelbrock 1405 permormer 600cfm carb on my 350.....no cat and no antipollution egr etc, with headers and hot cam.....hei distributor ...the car really goes!
if you upgrade that 350 to a 650 or 700cfm carb you will notice a huge difference. rule of thumb is to double your carb cfms of your c.i.d. my two cents
well i calculated that too, but i was told 600cfm was more than enough for my engine...i had a 750 double pumper before this carb and it was good for performance, it would really go....but it was a gas guzzler and it didn't have a choke(manual)...i did some research and 650-800 cfm carbs were suggested for 383 and up and big blocks...600cfm for a 350 is plenty...anyone else have any ideas?
so your sayin that wat i have right now is all i can get out of that 5.0HO with out boring it over and all that good stuff? damn that freakin sucks lol. time for the 5.7l swap
What I was saying was the carb you have now is fine, and you won't get more power out of the engine just by changing the carb. Even with a 5.7l swap, the carb you have now will make as much power as anything else you put on it. Meaning looking for more power by changing the carb is barking up the wrong tree - you need to fix the things that are actually limiting your power currently.
For carb sizing, (CID x RPMs)/3456 will get you in the ballpark. If you have the typical dual-plane intake manifold, you can/should go a little bigger. Since the q-jet is capable of flowing 750 CFM, there is no reason to put something else on before you do something a lot more than putting a healthy 350 in.
ok well i found a 5.0HO motor online for 60 bucks cuz the kid through a rod through the oil pan so im goin to buy it rip it apart and build a nice 5.0 i only want like 300hp and 300ftlbs of tourqe. i want to keep it streetable with decent mileage. also i want to restore the rest of the car to orginal and it has the 5.0HO stickers on the hood so im goin to keep it that way. the 5.0HO has 190hp and 240ftlbs right?
If you're going to buy a bare block and build an engine it would make a lot more sense to start out with more cubes. Rebuildable 350's can be had all day long for around $50... don't buy something that threw a rod through the pan unless you inspect it carefully in person first and make sure the block itself isn't trashed too.. Where do you live? You can have my LB9 for $50.. it still runs fine.
ok well i found a 5.0HO motor online for 60 bucks cuz the kid through a rod through the oil pan so im goin to buy it rip it apart ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 89RsPower!
... don't buy something that threw a rod through the pan unless you inspect it carefully in person first and make sure the block itself isn't trashed too...
There's no reason to look. The block is trashed. You don't put a rod through the oil pan without taking out something else in the block.
There's no reason to look. The block is trashed. You don't put a rod through the oil pan without taking out something else in the block.
true, personally I'd just scrap it if it was mine.. I was just trying to take into consideration maybe 1 in 5 million times by the grace of god maybe somehow the block would be machineable if you wanted to spend insane amounts of money to fix it.. no idea why anyone in their right mind would tho.. it MAY have a salvageable head left on it and some bolts that you could reuse. Maybe even a valve cover or two. Why you would throw $60 away on it I don't know.. you can get a rebuildable 350 from the local junkyard for around the same price.. hell you can get a decent used one for not much more.. around my way you can get a good running 350 (or 305, just don't understand why you would choose one for the same price) for $200 bucks with a 1 month guarantee from the local pick-a-part. I got one several years back for a replacement engine just to get a car back on the road, I just went around pulling valve covers off until I found one that looked like it was fairly well maintained. I sold the car after putting 60k on it and I still see it driving around from time to time.. anyway sorry for the rant, the point I was trying to make is 305's and 350's can be had for the same price, which is next to nothing if you look hard enough, and will cost almost exactly the same to build, why wouldn't you take the 45 extra cubes for free?
Last edited by 89RsPower!; 05-11-2009 at 04:41 PM.
i think there is no way to get decent mileage from a V-8 with 300 +hp like you want!...if you want performance only then you won't have great gas mileage, if you want great gas mileage then you have to mild things down a bit ...i don't think both performance and gas mileage go in the same sentence....
i think there is no way to get decent mileage from a V-8 with 300 +hp like you want!...if you want performance only then you won't have great gas mileage, if you want great gas mileage then you have to mild things down a bit ...i don't think both performance and gas mileage go in the same sentence....
A LS1 can make well over 300 hp to the wheels and still get respectable gas mileage.. if you are only shooting for around 300 crank hp you can still get reasonable gas mileage with a genI SBC though.. look around at what others have done..
well, i think you are right to a certain point, but any V-8 producing 300+hp will not have great gas mileage, decent maybe and it all depends on what you have on your engine...and i am from canada ,,,gas here isn't cheap! --super is about $1.10 a liter...
stock aluminum intake and q-jet is already a good combo. I like the q-jet once it works properly its great. Better is probably hei vac advance distributor, edelbrock preformer intake and either a holley 1850 or edelbrock 1406 would be a goood setup. Get the distributor from a junkyard for about $20, intakes can be had on craigslist for $20-100 and carbs for $20-120.
thanks for all the feed back. and i live in ct. how much would it cost to ship it up here or maybe i could find someone with a truck who will let me borrow it. is it stock or does it have work into it. and you said it runs? and knocking? is it carb or fuel injection? does it burn oil (like valve guide seals). the only reason i would buy that 60 dollar motor is to rebuild and if the block is beat then i would take the whole top end and keep it for another one of my 5.0L. i have like 4 vechicals that have 5.0L so parts are always good