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Originally Posted by DoubleV  Yes, but I think I could do better. I did a 'quicky' job because I didn't have the time. I used a friends laptop that displayed all the info. The reading were jumping around alot ( lazy O2 sensor??? ) so I wasn't able to be as precise as I wanted to be.
So I would be wrong to set it to factory specs ( .41 @ 550 rpm ) and then increase the idle ( to what's best for my car/ about 750 rpm )and let the TPS voltage be whatever it may be at that rpm? |
If you are running headers and a single wire O2 sensor you will have that exact problem because sitting idle it cannot keep the O2 sensor hot enough and it's going in and out of closed/open loop. Installing a heated O2 sensor fixed this problem for me. I found a way to trick it with a single wire O2 was every 30 seconds or so while tuning with dwell have your helper rev up to the top of the stall limiter and hold it, or drop it in N/P and hold, until the dwell starts again and proceed with tuning in drive. You really should switch to a heated sensor though if you haven't already.
Five7kid that is one of the things that interest me in these carbs is they are 20+ years old and theres still some "wonder" or "gray area" that no one is certain about. One thing i do know though is you put garbage in and it gives it right back to you.
As far as i know the system doesn't use TPS to determine RPM, so setting it per RPM isn't needed. It just wants to know where you got the peddle at so it can control mixture and TCC.
