On my car, the factory setting for the TPS is supposed to be .41V ( plus or mines .1 ) at 550 rpm. Currently, my car idles better at a sleightly higher rpm than that ( about 750ish ). I have a larger engine in my car, and due to this and that, may never like the idle at the factory 550 rpm. So should my TPS voltage be set higher than .41 since my idle is higher, or should the TPS always be set to it's idle spec regardless of your actual idle speed? Currently it's set a little too high at .68V. What difference should I expect to see if I turned it down to stock ( or closer to stock ) setting?

When you installed the larger motor did you adjust the IAB with a dwell meter?

Set the TPS at .41 so the computer has correct input. It's output is only as good as it's input. No performance benefit having it high/low, only poor mileage.

Yes, but I think I could do better. I did a 'quicky' job because I didn't have the time. I used a friends laptop that displayed all the info. The reading were jumping around alot ( lazy O2 sensor??? ) so I wasn't able to be as precise as I wanted to be.
So I would be wrong to set it to factory specs ( .41 @ 550 rpm ) and then increase the idle ( to what's best for my car/ about 750 rpm )and let the TPS voltage be whatever it may be at that rpm?

Someone smarter than me about the programming may correct me, but I believe it will simply "learn" that's what the idle TPS voltage is and go from there.

If you are running headers and a single wire O2 sensor you will have that exact problem because sitting idle it cannot keep the O2 sensor hot enough and it's going in and out of closed/open loop. Installing a heated O2 sensor fixed this problem for me. I found a way to trick it with a single wire O2 was every 30 seconds or so while tuning with dwell have your helper rev up to the top of the stall limiter and hold it, or drop it in N/P and hold, until the dwell starts again and proceed with tuning in drive. You really should switch to a heated sensor though if you haven't already.

Five7kid that is one of the things that interest me in these carbs is they are 20+ years old and theres still some "wonder" or "gray area" that no one is certain about. One thing i do know though is you put garbage in and it gives it right back to you.

As far as i know the system doesn't use TPS to determine RPM, so setting it per RPM isn't needed. It just wants to know where you got the peddle at so it can control mixture and TCC.

Perhaps I will set the voltage to the high end of the factory setting ( .51 in my case ).

I just bought a new Delco replacement O2 sensor, so looks like I'll be stuck with an unheated one for a while. I'm not running headers at least so it's not too bad.

I have a dumb question? I am fighting a error code 34....I have a big cam. I runs great in the powerband (blm 126-132), but its rough when its cold comming off the clutch (not smooth). the tps is .071 at idle(900 - 1000rpm) but o2 sensor not working correctly at idle shows being very lean 44.00 mv and slow increases blm up to 160, but as soon as I give it gas, it starts working perfectly again. Is this due to the cam?

The stock TPS sensor should be at 0.54 volts, not 0.41 that's too low. Mine is set at 0.53 and it idles very very smoothly.

Code 34 is low MAP sensor voltage. First make sure it is hooked up, then that it's operating correctly.

BTW, IrocEspo28, your user info shows "1988 Camaro". There were no carbs in '88 f-bodies. Did you convert yours over to CC carb, or are you talking about a different vehicle, or is your '88 TBI?

I agree - .54v +-1. Odd thing is there are different specs listed in various publications or on parts lists. The 87 GM Drivability manual lists .54v at the back of the book so I've gone with that.

I've seen .44v etc listed in other publications or on the parts spec listing for a new TPS. This is probably the voltage for a TPS if the engine is completly cold. The TPS .54v +-1 specification is for a properly heated engine.