ok ive had this camaro for a while and now that i have some free time ive been doing some work to it. i swapped the tpi out because some guy before me got half way through a painless wiring kit and its a whole mess of wires in the engine bay so i said screw it go with a friggin carb. i just order the hei distrib and the afpr and we have an edlebrock intake that we need to elongate. i was just posting to see if there is any tips or tricks to make the intallation of the parts easy or if there are any problems that i might run into. i just want the damn thing to start up so i can move it. one thing that i was worried about was the regulator and the fuel pump. the pump primes on ignition so if i was to rip the ecu out that wouldnt affect the pump would it? these are the parts that i orderd: http://summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8362/ http://summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4309/ http://summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G2400/

Can't help ya with the hole elongation - never did it.
Mallory 4309 - don't hook any vacuum line to it - makes fuel pressure eratic.
You'll need a good throttle cable bracket - this is nice and strong http://summitracing.com/parts/EDL-8030/
Depending on which carb you use, you'll need a TV cable geometry corrector like this one for the Edelbrock http://summitracing.com/parts/SUM-700203/
The fuel pump and all guages will function fine - without the ECM the pump won't prime, but a carb holds fuel for starting in it's fuel bowls so priming not needed.

ok im getting the parts today. one question i had was that we know someone with the intake that will fit on the car without bolt elongation. i was just wondering what the intake that requires bolt elongation would go for that way i could sell the one i have and buy the right one from the guy. the intake we have now is up to 86 and its an edlebrock performer.

You can get a new one from Summit for $130. Used, may go as low as $50, depending upon condition.

wanna sell me that tpi intake tube? Just the plastic intake with filter.

I would get the correct intake, when I did mine I researched it and a correct intake was only about 25 to 35 more than the older style and it fits correctly. seemed like a no brainer to me.

ok i got all the parts but im having trouble figuring out how to run the fuel to the regulator. im going to have one fuel line in, the return on the bottom and then a fuel line out to the carb. i was wondering what do i do with the other two unused ports on the reg. i could put a gauge on it to see what psi im getting and what do i do witht the last port just plug it?

oh and we got the right intake so no dremel on the intake

When I did the swap I plugged one hloe on the regulator ad put a gauge on the other. I also had to run power to the fuel pump relay to get it to work. I can't remember if it was the constant power or the ign power.

I just plugged the two extra holes on mine, and I put my fuel pressure guage inline betwwen the regulator and the carb.

Don't attach a vacuum line to the regulator - it messes with pressure and makes it irratic - it's only needed for a supercharger or something.

?

one last question on this frigging thing, what are the right fittings for it i bought 3/8" flare x 3/8" mip union but don't thread/fit into the old rubber fuel lines.

oh and about the tube, i might sell it but i wanna see if i can use if for something im cooking up. i will let you know if im selling it.

The supply line is 3/8 and the return is 5/16. If you kept enough rubber line on there, you will be able to use a 3/8 nipple x 3/8 npt directly into the regulator nad hook up the supply line. then use a 5/16 nipple x 3/8 npt fitting into the bottom and hook up the return.

ok so one of the two fittings works on the line in, the return is obviously too big. im threading right into where the metal fuel lines used to be, is that good or am i gonna have to cut the hose and go that route?

dorman makes fittings that go from the stock fuel lines to 3/8 compression. The stock fittings ARE NOT regular compression fittings..it is a special connector. the dorman lines are about $15 a piece and they make 1 for the return and 1 for the supply,works like a champ.good luck

When I did mine, I just used fittings from Autozone. They (and most other parts houses) have boxes of brass fittings behind the counter - just tell the clerk you need to go behind the counter to access the fittings. I think in the end I paid maybe $4 for what I needed, plus the time/cost of 3-4 trips to get the right ones.

ok i figured out how to get my regulator set, now all i need is the torque specs for the manifold bolts. also how much quarts of oil does an 87 305 take because im going to flush out the oil.

30 ft pounds. Look up the pattern for torquing the bolts. 5 quarts of oil. Just finished the carb swap on mine.

i had to bump this thread, ive seen that the most common thing to do around here is to use a fuel pressure regulator, well when i swapped a carb 350 from a 3.1 all i did was take the pump out of the tank, and put a piece of hose where it was. then i just picked up a standard 30 dollar fuel pump and put it up in the engine compartment. wired it to the oil pressure switch, cost me a total of 30 buck instead of an 85 dollar reg. its just about the same amount of work to.

this is a good idea. i think im going to go that way later on if i get leaks in the reg. i figure i have a great 80 dollar reg that i can always use down the line so getting the reg is a good idea. although summit sells packages that cost about that it would cost you to buy the reg and pump separately.

anyways new pics of it almost done, it should be running right now but ive been dragging my feet!

Are you willing to sell the harness

Torque the manifold bolts to 35 ft-lb.

Can you please post pictures of your guage that is hooked up to your regulator. Thanks.

i can take a pic for you on the gauge but all it is is a hose from the reg with an inline gauge after the inline fuel filter. you can get them at any part store and are cheap. i also thread sealed the gauge on the port it has just to be extra safe. and yes i torqued them to 35 i believe.

I am thinking about doing the same thing, a friend has a tunnel ramp with 2 4's on it for a 350 for me and I do not have a vehicle for the engine which is suppose to have 400 horse. How do I find out all I need and the right models of what I need I am not a car guy yet but am trying.what are the odds this intake will fit ??you did the swap should I??Any help would be appreciated thanks

Thanks for your help!

OK guys its been a while now and im having some more trouble and have been really busy lately so i haven't had a ton of time to fix this problem. since we took of the old manifold we decided to take a look inside the valve covers to see if it was looking good in there. it looks mint but now i cant get the valve cover screws back on. they are going in real tight and was wondering if there was a certain way the screws have to go in because they came out easy and now they are real tough. i have two bolts that are different from the others and saw on summit that they sell centerbolts and im thinking those are them. but like i said the others are really weird going in.

UPDATE: im a moron, the car has a wire loom and the bolts are extended. But on the lighter side of things IT STARTED TODAY!!! put a little gas in a rig to the carb and first turn over it started.

oh and i need to figure out how to get the long throttle cable to the carb, do i have to buy a whole new cable?

Either buy a new shorter cable, or loop the TPI cable around to take up the excess length.

i did my cable with a ground lug they have a screw and an eyelet cut the cable adjust and tighten the screw
also i dont know if it was brought up but if its an auto you'll have to deal with the tv cable their is some ware on the web that sells a kit you'll have to search it

If you could,when this is done,post all the link to the parts you bought,linkages,everything. Im about to do this has well,and this thread is a good guide so farThx!