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Carburetors Carb discussion and questions. Upgrading your Third Gen's carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.

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Old 07-16-2009, 01:15 AM   #1
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: louisville, co
Posts: 372
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 383
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 2800 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt

Classifieds Rating: (2)
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stall after the waterbox

So tonight I went to the local track to try and dial in the jets a little bit. Bandimere sits at about 5,800' elevation so keep that in mind. I am running a holley 750 double pumper with a hp main body. I havnt touched the air bleeds nor do I intend to (still learning the basics). Anyway the HP main body came with 72/84 jets and after reading the holley instructions it says to drop approximatly 1 jet for every 2,000' so I plugged in some 69/81's. Currently have 31 squirter up front and a 35 out back, orange pump cam in the front and a pink in the secondaries, with a 6.5 power valve in the primary and a block off in the secondary, mixture screws are per the instructions about a turn and a half out on all 4 corners. My guess is its flooding out the idle circuit, and I need to screw the mixture screws in, does this sound right? With the engine idle'ing I pulled the sight plugs in the bowls and the level seems good, just bearly bump the fender and gas trickles out.

I have a vacuum advance davis unified distributor set per the instructions, idle at 600rpm and set to 12* advance, and I am getting 36* total all in at 3,000rpm.

Now my question is after I hit the waterbox, burn em threw 1st and into second and slow down to stage for the tree it wants to spudder/stall unless i throw it into neutral (700R4) and give it some gas it settles back in, but there was one occasion where it actually died and felt a little embarassed at the tree! Would jet extensions help out in this situation? Or just lean out the mixture screws? Any input would be greatly appreciated as I am new to carbs and didnt find much in the search results.
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383 L98, Lunati sledgehammer crank, Crower 5.7 sportsman stroker rods, SRP forged flat tops, AFR 195 Eliminators, Crower Retro-Roller Lifters, Crower Hyd. Roller 221/230 .525/.545, Trickflow 1.6 Roller Rockers, Billet double roller timing chain, edelbrock RPM air gap, holley 750, Pro-Built 700R4, Vigilante 2800 converter, 3.27 9 Bolt Rear, Spohn LCA's & Wonderbar, Alston SFC's.

13.06 @ 105mph at 5,800' Elevation.

Last edited by d4nk; 07-16-2009 at 01:57 AM.
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Old 07-16-2009, 01:05 PM   #2
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Littleton, CO USA
Posts: 39,564
Car: 82 Berlinetta(2)/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1 (LS1)/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E (T56)/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 10B 3.73(9" 4.11)/8.2" 4.11

Classifieds Rating: (11)
I have struggled with idle problems, dieing around corners, dieing when going over the curb up to the driveway, dieing after idling for 10 seconds without feathering the throttle, etc., etc., etc., for several years. I had the problem with the original Holley 650, didn't change much when I put in the Proform main body, got worse when I converted to E85. I tried jet extensions, different float levels, different idle feed restrictors, different idle mixture screw adjustments, nothing fixed it.

This spring I changed the idle air bleeds and the problem went away entirely.
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:00 PM   #3
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: louisville, co
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Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 383
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 2800 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt

Classifieds Rating: (2)
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Re: stall after the waterbox

So maybe go up a size or two on the idle air bleeds? That in turn would lean out the idle a little bit correct?
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:31 PM   #4
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Littleton, CO USA
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Car: 82 Berlinetta(2)/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1 (LS1)/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E (T56)/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 10B 3.73(9" 4.11)/8.2" 4.11

Classifieds Rating: (11)
Down in idle bleed size for me. Fuel slosh was leaning the idle feed.
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:48 PM   #5
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: louisville, co
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Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 383
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 2800 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt

Classifieds Rating: (2)
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Re: stall after the waterbox

Ok I'll give that a go and see how she does, if not ill try the other way. Thanks for the help five7!
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:47 PM   #6
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: louisville, co
Posts: 372
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 383
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 2800 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt

Classifieds Rating: (2)
Send a message via AIM to d4nk
Re: stall after the waterbox

bringing this one back from the dead. Summit wants $200 for the asortment kit which I cant justify at the moment. I realized another issue that has sense come about and I am wondering if the air bleeds might come into play with this one as well. This afternoon I was doing a seafoam treatment to clean out some of the nasty carbon. After the cleaning it was at 220* and shut it down, after a few minutes with the car off I noticed I was getting gas coming out of the discharge nozzels without any pressure on the accelerator pump spring. It sounded almost as if it was being boiled in the main body. I pulled the sight plug on both bowls and with a light I could see that it wasnt boiling in the bowls. I pulled off the discharge nozzel squirters are you could hear it gurgiling down in the main body. After placing the squirters back on it then proceeded to dump massive amounts of fuel further down in the carb (not the squirters this time) on the secondary side. Does this sound more like an air bleed change might remidy? Or more like a bad needle/seat? I would think that a bad needle and seat would cause the bowls to overfill, but they are right on par as far as level goes.
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:47 PM
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